TED20 Clutch

[DrWazzock]

Clutch pedal is adjusted with correct clearance of 3/8".

The clutch tends to judder when setting off.

The clutch had been contaminated with oil due to leaking seals. I did clean it all in petrol to try to degrease it and gave it a rub with emery to try to deglaze it. I noticed one of the clutch fingers didn't quite point to the centre but was slightly off due to wear in the pins. I did not dismantle the clutch itself, just removed and replaced it on the flywheel so haven't disturbed settings, I hope.

I will split the tractor again to have a look as it isn't a big job, but at that age I am wondering if I will need to fit a complete new clutch and be done with it.

My other concern is setting the clutch fingers. Proper procedure requires fitting of a gauge plate in place of the wearing plate then set the fingers against a straight edge on the boss of the gauge plate. I don't have a gauge plate. Will the new clutch arrive already set up, or if not, can I use the drive plate boss end to set the fingers??

I don't know how the tractor drove before I dismantled it. The clutch doesn't slip when it is fully engaged, but there is serious judder, no matter how carefully you let it in and I don't want to damage the gearbox or have problems hitching on implements.

I suspect it needs a new clutch but just thought I'd ask before proceeding, in case I have missed something.

Is there a preferred make of replacement, or do they all come out of the same factory?

Thanks.

 

[MrNoo]

Judder will be the oil on the plate, despite your best efforts to clean it. Although I have noticed on both of ours that sometimes my TEA judders quite badly (it is still on it's original 1948 clutch!) but then it seems to sort itself out. The other one a TEF I put a new plate in/rear crank seal etc and it was very nice to use but that too is now a bit harsh, I do wonder if that's just how they are, they certainly dont/won't slip at the mid point like you can with others that's for sure.

 

[DrWazzock]

Dismantled it again and sure enough, the drive plate that I thought I'd degreased with petrol has exuded another coating of oil as if it's squeezed out of the wearing material and has glazed again. Otherwise everything is dry. So it will get a new drive plate, and that will have to do, judder or no judder.

 

[DrWazzock]

Fitted a complete new clutch in the end. A very big improvement. No judder and the pedal feels a bit heavier. Didn't realise how weak the old springs had become.

The clutch arrived with the adjusting screws already set up which saved me a bit of bother.

While I was at it, I found a leaking crack in the petrol tank which I repaired with SAS liquid metal epoxy and also a leak at the oil pressure gauge Union which I repaired with lashings of PTFE tape wound in.

All good now. Job done and safely delivered back to its home.

 

[tomlad]

Good thread to follow sir. Well done

Who supplied parts?

 

[DrWazzock]

Agriline supplied the clutch kit. Ordered online, here next day. Can't fault it.

 

[MrNoo]

Agriline supplied the clutch kit. Ordered online, here next day. Can't fault it.

The seem pretty good with some Fergie parts but I wouldn't order any gaskets from them ever again, and some of the chrome work is very poor, steering wheel on our TEF is rusting away very badly and it's only been on a little over 6 months and the tractor's kept in the dry.

 

[DrWazzock]

Can't remember whether my gaskets came from Agriline or Vapormatic, but think it was vapormatic. All fitted anyway.

I go to my vapormatic / sparex agent for crank regrinds and head skim etc as he is a knowledgeable and helpful bloke so I order the bulk of parts from him at same time from wherever he thinks is best value.

But I find Agriline very good as they have the online shop and next day delivery which has never failed, so it's a bit quicker and easier to see what you want than going through an agent. Everything from Agriline has been good as far as I can see, including all ignition parts, oil pump etc.

 

[MrNoo]

Yes, I think they are good for some things, we got a piston/liner set from them and as you say very quickly delivered but you must have used vapormatic gaskets then as you'd certainly remember if you used Agriiline ones……!!!

 

[Ley253]

A friend bought a new, agriline bonnet for his grey and gold. It turned up painted red! He had a body shop which would change the colour, but, until then, he kept the bonnet in his office, in the house, When the tractor was ready for paint, off it all went to the body shop, who found the finish on the bonnet to be rough, rubbing down found it to be rusted under the nice red paint! The same man bought a leak off pipe from them, it wouldnt reach the injectors!

 

[Mydexta]

A friend bought a new, agriline bonnet for his grey and gold. It turned up painted red! He had a body shop which would change the colour, but, until then, he kept the bonnet in his office, in the house, When the tractor was ready for paint, off it all went to the body shop, who found the finish on the bonnet to be rough, rubbing down found it to be rusted under the nice red paint! The same man bought a leak off pipe from them, it wouldnt reach the injectors!

Sounds familiar

I bought some diesel pipes for a 23c engine from agriline a few yrs back. They were 3-4" short and a totally wrong shape.when i called to complain, they told me that their tech dept had trialled them before they started selling them so it must be a problem at my end.

After sending a few photos, and offering to pay for someone to come up and show me how it could fit when it was far too short, they finally refunded me.

Not been that keen on using them since

 

[DrWazzock]

I'll bet most of the stuff comes out of the same factory at source.

As a lot of these restoration projects aren't going to be dyno tested or run 24/7 then does it really matter if the parts aren't top spec, particularly if the price reflects this?

I thought the clutch kit, which came ready set up, was particularly good value. Somebody somewhere isn't on a very high hourly rate to be knocking them out for that price.

Try going to the OEM for the parts. Either most likely discontinued or mega bucks.

And the good thing about Agriline is you don't have to be "in the trade" to open an account. I like this because I like to be in control, speaking to the horses mouth, but that's just my personal preference.

 

[Ley253]

A simple re line would have done the job, for about £25.00

 

[John 1594]

Only done it a couple of times, but have rescued a good clutch plate that has suffered oil contamination by gently going over it with a blowlamp

the friction linings are designed for way higher temperatures than oil, and you just keep applying the blowlamp to the linings until all the oil has burnt off

did the same with a set of brake shoes, again oil contaminated, it does work as a last resort

 

[Ley253]

Only done it a couple of times, but have rescued a good clutch plate that has suffered oil contamination by gently going over it with a blowlamp

the friction linings are designed for way higher temperatures than oil, and you just keep applying the blowlamp to the linings until all the oil has burnt off

did the same with a set of brake shoes, again oil contaminated, it does work as a last resort

It does indeed, boiling in a strong solution of washing detergent also works, but can cause friction elsewhere when you take over the kitchen stove.

 

[DrWazzock]

A simple re line would have done the job, for about £25.00

Only done it a couple of times, but have rescued a good clutch plate that has suffered oil contamination by gently going over it with a blowlamp

the friction linings are designed for way higher temperatures than oil, and you just keep applying the blowlamp to the linings until all the oil has burnt off

did the same with a set of brake shoes, again oil contaminated, it does work as a last resort

It does indeed, boiling in a strong solution of washing detergent also works, but can cause friction elsewhere when you take over the kitchen stove.

I'd still fit a complete new kit and be done with it. Solves issues with weak springs and worn finger mechanisms as well.

And if it lurches off the ramp going onto a trailer, well I took all reasonable care your honour.

 

[Lincsman]

Only done it a couple of times, but have rescued a good clutch plate that has suffered oil contamination by gently going over it with a blowlamp

the friction linings are designed for way higher temperatures than oil, and you just keep applying the blowlamp to the linings until all the oil has burnt off

did the same with a set of brake shoes, again oil contaminated, it does work as a last resort

I thought the trick was blast it with a BCF Fire extinguisher?

 

[John 1594]

I thought the trick was blast it with a BCF Fire extinguisher?

No, heat will always bring the oil out

last used the trick on the brake linings in an Allis B, the housings having been soaked in diesel to enable removal of the seized pins and linkages