The rice of the sea: how a tiny grain could change the way humanity eats

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The rice of the sea: how a tiny grain could change the way humanity eats

Written by Ashifa Kassam in Madrid

Ángel León made his name serving innovative seafood. But then he discovered something in the seagrass that could transform our understanding of the sea itself – as a vast garden

Growing up in southern Spain, Ángel León paid little attention to the meadows of seagrass that fringed the turquoise waters near his home, their slender blades grazing him as he swam in the Bay of Cádiz.

It was only decades later – as he was fast becoming known as one of the country’s most innovative chefs – that he noticed something he had missed in previous encounters with Zostera marina: a clutch of tiny green grains clinging to the base of the eelgrass.

Related: Meet the 'star ingredient' changing fortunes in Alaska's waters: seaweed

We’ve opened a window. It's a new way to feed ourselves

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Fields to Fork Festival 2025 offers discounted tickets for the farming community.

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The Fields to Fork Festival celebrating country life, good food and backing British farming is due to take over Whitebottom Farm, Manchester, on 3rd & 4th May 2025!

Set against the idyllic backdrop of Whitebottom Farm, the festival will be an unforgettable weekend of live music, award-winning chefs, and gourmet food and drink, all while supporting UK’s farmers and food producers. As a way to show appreciation for everyone in the farming community, discounted tickets are on offer for those working in the agricultural sectors.

Alexander McLaren, Founder of Fields to Fork Festival says “British produce and rural culture has never needed the spotlight more than it does today. This festival is our way of celebrating everything that makes...
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