TS 59 Cross shaft

[Farmerpickle]

Good morning,
I am looking to improve my TS 59 by cutting a key way in the cross shaft. I'm a little tired of undoing bolts every time I need to wind it across, especially when it is raining cats and dogs. I would like to know whether or not a 5/16" key way is suitable? I'm not too sure as I'm afraid a large keyway could weaken the cross shaft, and a small keyway could be difficult to move if dirt gets inside. Also I would like to know what you use as a collar to hold the key in place. Can you buy a special collar or something?
Many Thanks.

 

[arcobob]

Good morning,
I am looking to improve my TS 59 by cutting a key way in the cross shaft. I'm a little tired of undoing bolts every time I need to wind it across, especially when it is raining cats and dogs. I would like to know whether or not a 5/16" key way is suitable? I'm not too sure as I'm afraid a large keyway could weaken the cross shaft, and a small keyway could be difficult to move if dirt gets inside. Also I would like to know what you use as a collar to hold the key in place. Can you buy a special collar or something?
Many Thanks.

5/16" is perfect. The key can be permanently fixed within the arm if required and held in position by thin walled tube of the required length either side of the arm so that its position relative to the frame remains the same.These tubes will also prevent dirt getting in. I make a new arm out of 25X50mm box with a generous 2 3/4" tube welded on the end to provide a sliding fit on the shaft. I cut a 5/16" slot along the length of the tube and weld the key into it along its back. I would advise that you cut the keyway in the shaft along the bottom to prevent build up of dirt and prevent wear on the keyway when the plough is being carried. The length of the keyway in the shaft will depend on the position of the arm but with a fixed key you will have to run the keyway through to the right hand end of the crosshaft. I hope this makes sense.
If you need additional locking collars these can be obtained from bearing suppliers.

 

[Farmerpickle]

5/16" is perfect. The key can be permanently fixed within the arm if required and held in position by thin walled tube of the required length either side of the arm so that its position relative to the frame remains the same.These tubes will also prevent dirt getting in. I make a new arm out of 25X50mm box with a generous 2 3/4" tube welded on the end to provide a sliding fit on the shaft. I cut a 5/16" slot along the length of the tube and weld the key into it along its back. I would advise that you cut the keyway in the shaft along the bottom to prevent build up of dirt and prevent wear on the keyway when the plough is being carried. The length of the keyway in the shaft will depend on the position of the arm but with a fixed key you will have to run the keyway through to the right hand end of the crosshaft. I hope this makes sense.
If you need additional locking collars these can be obtained from bearing suppliers.

Many thanks for your reply Bob. And also thank you for your guidance on having the keyway on the bottom rather than top to help prevent wear, that hadn’t crossed my mind. What you have said makes complete sense.
Many thanks much appreciated.

 

[arcobob]

Many thanks for your reply Bob. And also thank you for your guidance on having the keyway on the bottom rather than top to help prevent wear, that hadn’t crossed my mind. What you have said makes complete sense.
Many thanks much appreciated.

I must admit to having suffered a senior moment. The cross shafts are 1 3/4" not 2 3/4. Sorry

 

[Farmerpickle]

I must admit to having suffered a senior moment. The cross shafts are 1 3/4" not 2 3/4. Sorry

That’s alright. I do have another couple of questions for you. For ploughing Classic/11” furrows does the front leg need to be on the outside of the frame and the rear leg on the inside of the frame? Also when ploughing how far out to the right do you have the cross shaft?

 

[MrNoo]

On my 59 running 10" furrows with the front leg on the inside of the frame (I think!) my cross shaft was out 3" so yours looks somewhere handy. I did put a post up re cross shaft with a couple of pictures of mine a while back which should tell a thousand words.

 

[Farmerpickle]

Many thanks for the reply MrNoo. That would make sense for 10" furrows as my TS 59 is currently is set at 10" and both legs are on the inside of the frame. The cross shaft on mine for ploughing 10" is around 2.5" to 3" out to the right. Should this be altered for ploughing 11" furrows? For 11" work should the front leg be on the outside and the rear leg be on the inside?

 

[Dealer]

Don't bother with a keyway

If your going to all that trouble you may as well make your own headstock

No clamps and the frame will travel full length of the cros shaft

Run my 59 with leg on the outside and use spacers like a ts 86 to move back leg to suite can plough 10" to 12"

Also front furrow is now able to move right across to plough 8" single furrow with the rear furrow if I need to pinch a single furrow.

 

[Farmerpickle]

Don't bother with a keyway

If your going to all that trouble you may as well make your own headstock

No clamps and the frame will travel full length of the cros shaft

Run my 59 with leg on the outside and use spacers like a ts 86 to move back leg to suite can plough 10" to 12"

Also front furrow is now able to move right across to plough 8" single furrow with the rear furrow if I need to pinch a single furrow.

What an intelligent idea! But I would really like to just stick to an ordinary moving cross shaft rather that going to a movable headstock and confusing myself even more.

 

[Dealer]

If you fix your land wheel to the frame the wheel follows your adjustment so you dont need to move that as well

Main benefit is that the top link is nearly always inline makes easier pulling and keeping the plough where you want it on your final furrows

 

[Dealer]

What an intelligent idea! But I would really like to just stick to an ordinary moving cross shaft rather that going to a movable headstock and confusing myself even more.

Not my idea came from a ploughman a lot more experienced then me

Howard150 is probably a fore runner in doing this remember your bar support from the head stock to the plough frame needs to pivot at both ends

Also I have screw adjuster so i can move the frame don't need spanners most of the time just take the fixing pin out and turn by hand

If you want to stay with your keys at that's fine but your clamps will restrict cross shaft movement if on the inside the frame then rear furrow adjustment is less if on the outside of the frame front furrow will be restricted

My head stock gives maximum move ment for both

 

[arcobob]

That’s alright. I do have another couple of questions for you. For ploughing Classic/11” furrows does the front leg need to be on the outside of the frame and the rear leg on the inside of the frame? Also when ploughing how far out to the right do you have the cross shaft?
View attachment 758420

With the front on the outside you will put it 2” nearer the tractor wheel but you are aiming to plough about 1” wider therefore the protruding shaft will in theory be 3” more. The rear leg will be inside the frame but will require a 1” spacer.
I say in theory because no two ploughs run exactly the same but you will end up with about 5” between the frame and the knuckle. To give more space put the headstock mounting plate on the inside.
I am not a follower of the moving headstock trend, and very much against attaching the wheel to it. If you want to make sure that the top link stands more or less in line you can build in alternative top link mounting positions on the plough and the tractor. I have fitted alternative positions on a B275, Fergie 20 and a JD 920 all about 10” to the left and very useful when ploughing a single furrow.

 

[Dealer]

I amnot a follower of the moving headstock trend, and very much against attaching the wheel to it.


The headstock does not move the frame moves under the headstock

The wheel is fixed to the plough frame not the headstock frame

Always two ways to skin a cat

The top link pulls inline and the link arms are nearly central point of convergence is middle front of tractor or as close

Fixing top link to the side moves the whole thing to one side and convergence is not central

Do what you feel is right I copied an idea used by a former national champion and thought if thats what he uses who am i to argue

No rights or wrongs I just thought it looked efficient and less to remember

Tony M is also using the same style

 

[Cordiale]

When making a head stock where the plough move on the cross shaft, do you keep all the original dimensions the same. The width of cross shaft and the height of the top link hitching point?

 

[Dealer]

Yes to both with mine

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

When making a head stock where the plough move on the cross shaft, do you keep all the original dimensions the same. The width of cross shaft and the height of the top link hitching point?

Yes it does, and more so than keeping it original, due to top link staying where it should be all the time

 

[Farmerpickle]

Once again I would like to thank you all for your contributions to this thread. I don’t fancy a moveable headstock. I am sticking with a keyway in the cross shaft for the time being.
Many Thanks.

 

[Farmerboyben]

Fairly difficult to see but I think mine was fairly easy to do.. I’ve narrowed my frame quite a bit.. not silly amount but enough and the front furrow adjustor has got tubular spacers that sit over the top of cross shaft to keep everything in line. I just undo the nib bolt in the front furrow adjustor arm which sits nicely in the key way underneath and slide it along. Easy...

 

[Howard150]

Not my idea came from a ploughman a lot more experienced then me

Howard150 is probably a fore runner in doing this remember your bar support from the head stock to the plough frame needs to pivot at both ends

Also I have screw adjuster so i can move the frame don't need spanners most of the time just take the fixing pin out and turn by hand

If you want to stay with your keys at that's fine but your clamps will restrict cross shaft movement if on the inside the frame then rear furrow adjustment is less if on the outside of the frame front furrow will be restricted

My head stock gives maximum move ment for both

 

[Fergie Ploughman]

IMO....the moving headstock strays too far from the good old "as manufactured" ruling.... (don't all shoot me down!)