Welding in steel Bosses

whats the best way to do this? Normally put the pin in and tack round the bush before welding up,I have more success with stick welder than mig at this,mig always pulls it squint and I struggle to get the pin back out!
Is that due to more heat?
Any tips or tricks to keep them true?
 

Jameshenry

Member
Location
Cornwall
I usually do the same tack all around on each side of the boss making sure pin is free , just got to resist the temptation to do long runs of weld around the boss , i find that's when they pull out of line , short runs of weld on opposite sides is what i find best to stop distortion,
 

Tombyrne7810

New Member
Is there a website that stocks a range of them ? Everytime I need bosses iv to find some heavy walled pipe and probaly get it machined. It would be great if there was somewhere easy that stocks them
 

Nearly

Member
Location
North of York
Is there a website that stocks a range of them ? Everytime I need bosses iv to find some heavy walled pipe and probaly get it machined. It would be great if there was somewhere easy that stocks them
I bought a few of these for loader pin repair. I bought a few 'split bush bearings' from them too for inside the actual pivots.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123255609128?ViewItem=&item=123255609128
I'm thinking grub screw to remove and then drill through the other side to get a lynch pin through pin.
 

AJR75

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Somerset
Short of machining out the boss after welding it’s very difficult to get a very good fit without some distortion and weld shrinkage. I normally set everything up with plenty of tacks, weld up then offer the pin back through. When it goes tight pull the pin back out and there’s normally some ‘tell tale’ marks on the pin where it’s fouling the bush. Just tend to fettle this out with a die grinder until the fit is good again.
 

Hairy Bob

Member
A good fitting boss and a well prepped hole helps enormously. If you're filling gaps the weld is always going to pull. If one side of the hole has worn a lot, top hat style bushes can make life easier. Plenty of tacks. I always try to get a tack every 10-15mm on both sides before I start welding, which is probably excessive. Definitely preheat the bush, and the surrounding metal if it's >15mm thick. It doesn't have to be glowing, just hot enough that you don't want to touch it.
All this should get you close enough for the likes of digger buckets, ram brackets and the like. If you need a better fit, for say a bushing or bearing, you'd want to start with a slightly undersized bore and line bore it after welding.
 

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