Whats the best value in sheds?

[sh40]

I want to build a new machinery shed and just have a few questions ye experts on here will probably be able to answer: In my head I am thinking of 60ft x 40ft x 14ft to the eve.

1. Generally is 40ft the most economical width of a shed. I would ideally like to be able to park 3 tractors and trailers side by side.

2. Is it generally cheaper to go 16ft bays using timber purlins or 20ft bays using steel purlins. Lets say I want the shed to be 60ft long. So it would be 60ft using the steel purlins or 64ft using the timber purlins. Are there any disadvantages to the steel purlins. in a machinery shed.

3. I live in a windy high enough area. What would I need to make sure in terms of cross bracing? How many bays would need cross bracing?

4. Would ye recommend concrete pads for each A-frame leg or a foundation around the parimeter? I will be putting in a concrete floor and pouring a 5 or 6ft wall.

5. My final question is regarding the door. I will be putting in 2 sliding doors as roller doors dont last here with wind. Whats a nice width door opening? Would a 16ft or 18ft door opening be a bit too much?

 

[michael N123]

Just commenting so I can see the replays as that's the exact same situation /idea as ours

 

[farmerm]

I want to build a new machinery shed and just have a few questions ye experts on here will probably be able to answer: In my head I am thinking of 60ft x 40ft x 14ft to the eve.

1. Generally is 40ft the most economical width of a shed. I would ideally like to be able to park 3 tractors and trailers side by side.

2. Is it generally cheaper to go 16ft bays using timber purlins or 20ft bays using steel purlins. Lets say I want the shed to be 60ft long. So it would be 60ft using the steel purlins or 64ft using the timber purlins. Are there any disadvantages to the steel purlins. in a machinery shed.

3. I live in a windy high enough area. What would I need to make sure in terms of cross bracing? How many bays would need cross bracing?

4. Would ye recommend concrete pads for each A-frame leg or a foundation around the parimeter? I will be putting in a concrete floor and pouring a 5 or 6ft wall.

5. My final question is regarding the door. I will be putting in 2 sliding doors as roller doors dont last here with wind. Whats a nice width door opening? Would a 16ft or 18ft door opening be a bit too much?

put the doors on the other end so they dont face prevailing wind

 

[sh40]

put the doors on the other end so they dont face prevailing wind

No that can't happen as it will be fitting into a certain place. Doors will be facing west. We get heavy south west winds.

 

[designanddetail]

20ft bays with steel purlins will be cheaper than 16fts with timbers as you have to have an extra frame and set of foundations with the 16ft option.

Bracing will depend how the design is done, it can all be braced one end or both ends. Ask to see the structural calculations as part of your building order, ask for them to be sent before any fabrication starts, still many places not running site specific calcs even though they are required for CE marking. If your in an exposed area then its worth being sure.

If your pouring a wall then pour a ring beam at the same time as the pad foundation for the columns.

 

[Angus]

5. My final question is regarding the door. I will be putting in 2 sliding doors as roller doors dont last here with wind. Whats a nice width door opening? Would a 16ft or 18ft door opening be a bit too much?
[/QUOTE]
We have a building fifty feet wide with a sliding door in the gable end for access. The two doors are ten feet wide, I usually have both doors fully open and for me it works. The doors face due west into the prevailing weather on a somewhat exposed site and when it blows they can be a little difficult to move but are safer to use than hinged doors, Angus.

 

[Hilly]

6o is most efficient width not forty , 14 eves is to low for Morden tractors etc length well depends on what you have to house but I’d go 80 min . You need 17 eves at least for today’s kit and future proof , I have one 14 and with height you loose with door etc can’t get tractors in .

 

[sh40]

We have a building fifty feet wide with a sliding door in the gable end for access. The two doors are ten feet wide, I usually have both doors fully open and for me it works. The doors face due west into the prevailing weather on a somewhat exposed site and when it blows they can be a little difficult to move but are safer to use than hinged doors, Angus.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks Angus. Is it the gap 20ft wide so when both doors are open?

 

[Angus]

Yes it is. They are close on twenty feet tall, so act like sails when it is blowing. If I was putting them up again I would give a bit more thought to the bottom locating track, Angus.

 

[Hilly]

I have twenty foot wide roller shutter , if your in and out a lot shifting machines twenty foot door s are essential any smaller will result in a bash sooner or later I’d say , especially if it’s not just yourself using it .

 

[MD @Minshall Buildings]

20ft bays with steel purlins will be cheaper than 16fts with timbers as you have to have an extra frame and set of foundations with the 16ft option.

Bracing will depend how the design is done, it can all be braced one end or both ends. Ask to see the structural calculations as part of your building order, ask for them to be sent before any fabrication starts, still many places not running site specific calcs even though they are required for CE marking. If your in an exposed area then its worth being sure.

If your pouring a wall then pour a ring beam at the same time as the pad foundation for the columns.

sound advice on the calcs