Will gas straighten cast iron ?
- Thread starter bobk
- Start date
nails
Member
- Location
- East Dorset
My thought is "That is the sort of thing i would do and break it"
- Location
- Galloway
Did not think you could bend cast .it's worth a try
Hesston4860s
Member
- Location
- Nr Lincoln
Is it mailable steel and not cast ?, if it is gas should help straighten it !.
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
They are cast steel not cast iron, and have straighten them cold in the field, but a little heat will help
I don't know , it's definately bent , so will it straighten .
- Location
- North West Wales
If it’s bent once it should bend back. Cast would of cracked in the first place, will it have the same tensile strength after I wouldn’t have a clue!!
Exfarmer
Member
- Location
- Bury St Edmunds
After straightening, if it is cast steel rather than iron, it will need retenpering
I would recomend taking up to orange heat, then cooling in oil certainly not water.
Repeat the process 2 or 3 times
I would recomend taking up to orange heat, then cooling in oil certainly not water.
Repeat the process 2 or 3 times
startinghandle
Member
How would it bend in first place?
f**kin good question .
- Location
- North West Wales
Did you lend it to my dad by any chance.......
davidroberts30
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
That process hardens the metal
you need to heat it then wrap it to let it cool slowly
Foxcover
Member
Cast would potentially crack if you quenched it.
Exfarmer
Member
- Location
- Bury St Edmunds
I was talking about cast steel, which if someone straightened with heat would need re tempering.
Cast iron will not normally bend just break
Foxcover
Member
Ok, well then sometimes cast steel can be treated like normal steel (in essence all steel is cast then either forged, rolled, extruded, drop forged etc) but I still wouldn’t quench it. Let it air cool so it hardens without becoming brittle.
Exfarmer
Member
- Location
- Bury St Edmunds
We had an issue many years ago with a cast steel part on a forage harvester. keen to get on as the grass was lying down and no prospect of a part for a couple of days, the local branch manager of FH Burgess who had supplied it. heated it bent it back to shape and then multiple tempered it as I described. This was not the first time we had replaced this part , a complex automatic hitch pin. The part never bent again and we had the spare one in thew workshop till the forager blew up a few years later. This was despite towing ten tonne trailers with it. The manager revealed in another life he had been trained as a blacksmith.
Heating up red and dunking is hardening.
Tempering requires much more control over temperature, the crude way is to clean up the workpiece shiny and then heat until the steel achieves a "straw" colour, if it goes to blue you have overcooked it. Workpiece is then quenched ideally in oil to cool more slowly than chucking in water bath.
Hardening makes steel brittle and wear resistant, tempering imparts predictable tensile strength.
Tempering requires much more control over temperature, the crude way is to clean up the workpiece shiny and then heat until the steel achieves a "straw" colour, if it goes to blue you have overcooked it. Workpiece is then quenched ideally in oil to cool more slowly than chucking in water bath.
Hardening makes steel brittle and wear resistant, tempering imparts predictable tensile strength.
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