Compaction can sort itself !

Clive

Staff Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lichfield
Certainly far from dry here. I think once we get a more regimented CTF system (which won't be until the next combine) then we could cultivate and then not expect to re-traffic. That won't happen at the moment though.

Went digging in our spring barley fields (which had no deep movement) and they are certainly so so much tighter than ground which was ploughed last year. I know the difference between consolidation and compaction, and I think we do now have some tightness which is more like compaction. I think the natural soil structure has not yet appeared and in the absence of artificial loosening those fields are in a period where there is some limitations on plant growth. Where this is pervasive across the whole field it's a slightly different situation. In this instance I'm not sure whether it's better to leave it or cultivate.Going forward I like the idea of cultivating and then settling into a CTF system to that the loosened areas are not put back down again.

I have to say though when digging around that the ploughed ground does look really nice. You could hardly look at and say look at the pulverised / slumped mess. It digs and smells good.

I think the prolific use of cover crops have really helped us while soil structure has improved, root have done a lot of fixing of issues we may have created
 

Kiwi Pete

Member
Livestock Farmer
Have not considered this. Would have thought that promoting soil health is a long term game and so could not be brought into action swiftly enough to sort this problem out that we have at the moment.
Completely agree, it won't happen in a week, how far down did you notice the compaction, was it at the surface or down rather deep as well?
 

rob1

Member
Location
wiltshire
I think it is just a phase you have to get through until the ground settles naturally, last year we used a low distrubance subsoiler where we had tipped muck, more as an experiment that any need, in one field where there is wheat it is rubbish, thin , and really suffered in the dry weather the bit which is in SB looks fine and cant see the difference from the surrounding crop, not sure what that proves . WE also did part of one field that lies wet and were concerned about poor spread of chaff so thought it wouldlet a bit of air into the soil and let water down below the roots, didnt make the slightest difference to bit we didnt do, we have heavy ground but good OM levels which might help
 

Kiwi Pete

Member
Livestock Farmer
I am really small scale, and live in a country with not many radar towers (y)
Kelp is great stuff as it is algae- and breaks down in water.
A silage chopper, and mulch up a big windrow of kelp would be my choice if I had one- then soak it til it's a big soup, draw it off the top!
I only make a few hundred litres at a time, as 5-10 per hectare is plenty.
As for adding humates, the bare bones kiwi approach of my choice is to make all the charcoal I can, in a retort style setup out of an oil drum.
Mix that in with your FYM pile and 'Robert's your muvva's bruvva' as it gets a good chance to colonise with microbes and absorb some nutrients out of the muck.
5kg of charcoal has a surface area of nearly a square mile!

That's my buzz anyway (y)
 

Kiwi Pete

Member
Livestock Farmer
Tight at least 6 inches down. Went further down than I was expecting. If it was only a few inches could happily put a set of discs over it.
How adjustable is a Terrastar?
Can you reduce the "cut" so it will go deeper or are the stars quite curved.
I have a spiked aerator that is sort of similar- but will head down to 7 inches or so and gives it a slight shatter
 

Kiwi Pete

Member
Livestock Farmer
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1500623944952.jpg

I reckon this would rearrange your tramlines. The only piece of new kit I've ever bought.
 

scholland

Member
Location
ze3
I am really small scale, and live in a country with not many radar towers (y)
Kelp is great stuff as it is algae- and breaks down in water.
A silage chopper, and mulch up a big windrow of kelp would be my choice if I had one- then soak it til it's a big soup, draw it off the top!
I only make a few hundred litres at a time, as 5-10 per hectare is plenty.
As for adding humates, the bare bones kiwi approach of my choice is to make all the charcoal I can, in a retort style setup out of an oil drum.
Mix that in with your FYM pile and 'Robert's your muvva's bruvva' as it gets a good chance to colonise with microbes and absorb some nutrients out of the muck.
5kg of charcoal has a surface area of nearly a square mile!

That's my buzz anyway (y)
Would the kelp added to fym and composted for 6 months then spread work? Usually a storm or 2 per winter which put up a heap of kelp which would be better tidied up!
 

Kiwi Pete

Member
Livestock Farmer
Would the kelp added to fym and composted for 6 months then spread work? Usually a storm or 2 per winter which put up a heap of kelp which would be better tidied up!
Definitely (y)
I only went with the liquid as I have a few years to go before getting a muckspreader, whereas a boomjet is just too cheap and simple for now.
About the only thing kelp is not high in, is nitrogen. Heaps of calcium and most other macro and micronutrients, gibberellins..
If you can get it, don't turn it down, much like anything else free it's worth your time IMO
 

scholland

Member
Location
ze3
Definitely (y)
I only went with the liquid as I have a few years to go before getting a muckspreader, whereas a boomjet is just too cheap and simple for now.
About the only thing kelp is not high in, is nitrogen. Heaps of calcium and most other macro and micronutrients, gibberellins..
If you can get it, don't turn it down, much like anything else free it's worth your time IMO
Years ago it was routinely harvested and spread, they weren't daft.
 

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