- Location
- Ashbourne, Derbyshire
Pretty happy with that, field in foreground is 1st wheat after OSR and not had a single pellet
Claydon
- Thread starter Case290
- Start date
Pretty happy with that, field in foreground is 1st wheat after OSR and not had a single pellet
- Location
- Essex/Herts Border
What variety and seedrate? Look like some nice full rows!
- Location
- Ashbourne, Derbyshire
Costello @ 150 kg/ha
- Location
- Cambs Essex
Tilso?
Warp Land Farmer
Member
- Location
- Hazzard County
Thank you for being so open with your experiences, very interesting reading. The fuel bill looks great, assume that doesn’t include harvesting?
Wow - Very impressive crops!!! Do you or @Brisel have a view on trailed vs. Mounted for quality or work / finish, esp. in establishing OSR? What precedes the drill if anything? How do you manage wheat straw and harvest traffic? Thanks!
Last edited:
- Location
- Ashbourne, Derbyshire
I maybe able to help, we converted our 3m mounded hybrid into a trailed version, and it's night and day different.
First thing, with it being trailed, i can loose the front weights and drop tyre pressures, also it's easier pulling so less fuel used and improved workrate.
Setting the seeding depth is much easier too wih just adding/removing shims rather than adjusting/measuring a turnbuckle.
We also have the option of using either leading discs or press wheels in front of leading tines, normally I'd use the press wheels as this help stabilise the drill and help with seeding depth.
Excellent - thank you very much indeed - that’s all sounds totallly sensible and very interesting - a big help!!
Any pics of OSR?
- Location
- Ashbourne, Derbyshire
Not on my phone, will get one next week
ollie989898
Member
I think the Claydon is the drill to beat personally, I wonder what the ultimate roll/tool for finishing the job off is and if it could be done by the drill itself, maybe towing a roller behind it or something.
certainly is the strip drill to beat.. be nice if there was a conversion available to make it ULD when planting, would certainly be a good move for claydon if they could do this.
Other strip till drills are available! The DTS has better trash clearance now, Mzuri's development is first class but yes, I'd have another Claydon if I had to start again. The main weaknesses are consolidating the seed zone and coulter depth control. It won't help a slug or weed problem either.
You "liked" an earlier post of mine in this thread, so will try not to repeat myself. I agree with @Rob Holmes . Trailed would be better for the tractor but probably wouldn't make,much difference to the work quality unless the front discs (trailed only where the leading tine stays in) bring something to the party. Rob would be better placed to comment about the leading discs & frankly I'd like to know too, though I can't turn my 6m mounted to trailed. I straw rake ahead of every crop unless its months later (spring sowing). It's not always necessary but can help with stale seedbeds and slug control. A good set of rolls helps. Roll twice if you need to.
Wheat straw - rarely a problem if chopped and spread well. Harvest traffic - no real problem. After a couple of years the land travels better anyway. I still try to keep trailers to tramlines when possible and have fitted wider tyres to the grain trailers though I did that before moving to strip till. I don't miss having to rip up headlands and tramlines every year to remove deep ruts - I just don't make them anymore and I've got an even heavier trailed sprayer now.
They do. Twin disc followed by the twin tines. They sell a stronger S tine. Ask Spencer Claydon - I did at LAMMA.
Devon James
Member
- Location
- Devon
With our mounted four metre Hybrid which is for sale [emoji41]
warksfarmer
Member
All these strip till drills are not the answer long term. They are just the latest fad, like ‘min till’ was in the 1990’s and 2000’s.
If your happy to disturb the soil via strip till then you might as well cultivate and drill because of the need for straw harrows etc there is very little difference in costs.
Also strip till can see brome become a major problem.
If you want to direct drill then do it properly with a no till drill.
ollie989898
Member
I am not a soil saving acolyte, I just like drills that reliably put seed into the ground in one pass. I have no doubt a no till drill can do it a bit cheaper but down here it is too wet for them- disc drills in particular can create slug runways and smear like fudge. Don't get me wrong, they are invariably better in all respects if the going is good, I just think the Claydon has a wider operating window and as a system can stick more abuse from the farmer.
How much ground the drill cultivates or disturbs or doesn't etc is not a factor for me- I'm not a no-till fanatic.
Brome is an issue that has to be addressed by rotation in my view.
warksfarmer
Member
Accurate seed depth doesn’t come from a spring tine.
You either need a proper tine such as the horsch or just bite the bullet and go to a proper disc drill.
ollie989898
Member
Discs have limitations that same as anything. I've seen plenty of stuff drilled with a Claydon, the varying seed depth can be an issue, but I feel the rough nature of the surface after a Claydon is more of a concern. as you can end up with dodgy soil to seed contact. The slug and smearing issues with disc drills would put me off; I think it is genuinely too wet around here too much of the time, or it turns so dry you struggle get the things to penetrate effectively.
Upping the seed rate can counter much of these issues though.
As for straw rakes- there is categorically no need to go out and buy these things. I've known people use old fashioned zig zag harrows and all sorts dragged out of the nettles to similar effect. Cost fudge all and so simple a kid could do it. Personally I think the trick is to have something on the front of a set of rollers instead and whip over with that.