Levelling a seedbed

grass man

Member
I think the first passes over the ploughing cause the harm. Ideally work with duals or terras, roll or furrow press until it's firm then cultivate shallow. Then keep rolling/ furrow pressing land levelling and cultivating shallow until ur happy with job. As has already been mentioned keep working at angles similar to normal direction of travel and never across. Never rush to sow it the day before the rains coming , only sow it when you have got it firm and level
 

quavers

Member
Location
aberdeenshire
having watched a couple of old guys doing there reseeds , they Cambridge rolled soon after ploughing and then worked the land with there leveller , always seemed to have a good seed bed with out using dual wheels or any fancy kit , so tried it last week on some turnip ground , ploughed rolled then spad rolled , the first pass of the rolls firmed up the ploughing so the tractor did not dig in the same when levelling the next pass , that or don't plough and get it worked over with a set of short-disc
 
For grass we used to cultivate same as for barley. But if time and weather allowed cultivate each way with final pass being the way it will be cut or driven the most.
Many moons ago dad built a levelling Harrow it’s 6 or 7 rows of levelling bars, made from heavy angle irons. Followed by a concrete roller. On our land it worked perfectly.
 

james ds

Member
Location
leinster
I've tried them in the past and they seem to do a good job at the time but when everything settles the land is bumpy. Think the leveller fills in wheel tracks so there's extra soil in places, then when everything settles the wheel tracks are left sitting high.
If it's grass land your ploughing , when the sod rots it sinks , if you heavy roll it after ploughing it helps a lot. I reseed by discing and landlever and then it doesn't sink after. Why do you plough.
 

Cmoran

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Galway Ireland
Ploughing nearly out of fashion for reseeding around here. To many stones for picking. We generally disc both ways as many times as needed (2-4 runs depending on the ground) to make good seed bed but lately I’ve started rolling straight after each run of the disc makes way better job of seedbed then just one pass with power harrow and seeder
 

KB6930

Member
Location
Borders
This year I ploughed then heavy flat rolled power harrowed with ploughing then a bit of an angle flat rolled again. Sowed grass with a einbok harrow thing then rolled again. Haven’t driven on it yet though
My biggest problem is it's old grass he's taking out putting it in kale for a year then back to grass so the old turf hasn't rotted away but ploughing early would definitely help
 

Mouser

Member
Location
near Belfast
I landlevel straight on to ploughing with a wee light tractor (mf 362) firms the furrow and fills hollows then disc and land leveller as needed at slightly increasing angles but still biased to main work direction. Hate power Harrow, its only for bluffing and ruining soil structure
 

Andrew1983

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Black Isle
When I think about it I don’t think we have gotten as good as back in the 90s. We had a 3m grays disc multiharrow on a 3350, duals and a front press. Used to work it once then work it a second time on the same line but staggered half a width so the wheels ran on the un run on land from the first pass. Then rolled, sow then roll again. Perfect job.

Since then we moved onto bigger tractors with floatation tyres, power Harrow and an Alex hay with tines and I don’t think we are making as good a job.
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
Ploughing nearly out of fashion for reseeding around here. To many stones for picking. We generally disc both ways as many times as needed (2-4 runs depending on the ground) to make good seed bed but lately I’ve started rolling straight after each run of the disc makes way better job of seedbed then just one pass with power harrow and seeder

Same around here, way to many stones. Direct drilling forage crops straight after second cut is a good method aswell, graze in winter, stale seedbed, glyphosate then heavy dose of muck in spring and disc it twice.
 

Boohoo

Member
Location
Newtownabbey
If it's grass land your ploughing , when the sod rots it sinks , if you heavy roll it after ploughing it helps a lot. I reseed by discing and landlever and then it doesn't sink after. Why do you plough.
It was heavy flat rolled after ploughing to put the furrows down flat.
We plough because some of our land hasn't been reseeded in living memory so we need to bury the old grass and make clean soil available to level the fields. If we just used a disc we would have to spray off and disc in the autumn and then leave it until the spring so that all the old grass rotted away
 

milkloss

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
East Sussex
It was heavy flat rolled after ploughing to put the furrows down flat.
We plough because some of our land hasn't been reseeded in living memory so we need to bury the old grass and make clean soil available to level the fields. If we just used a disc we would have to spray off and disc in the autumn and then leave it until the spring so that all the old grass rotted away

Yes and no, ploughing might give you a nice clean finish but we disc, dung, disc, lime and scratch level and seed with a ph drill, loads of rolling in between. You get some tufts of old grass but it’s no hindrance to the new seeds because of the lime countering the acidity from breakdown. The rougher deep soil is never brought to the top and the dung is never too deep for the young grass to reach early on. The disadvantage is that the old grass can wick moisture from the seed bed much the same as a glypho spray and leaving for a few weeks.

It’s level the next year still too as there is no slump.
 
Yes and no, ploughing might give you a nice clean finish but we disc, dung, disc, lime and scratch level and seed with a ph drill, loads of rolling in between. You get some tufts of old grass but it’s no hindrance to the new seeds because of the lime countering the acidity from breakdown. The rougher deep soil is never brought to the top and the dung is never too deep for the young grass to reach early on. The disadvantage is that the old grass can wick moisture from the seed bed much the same as a glypho spray and leaving for a few weeks.

It’s level the next year still too as there is no slump.

If you don't plough the existing sward down you will get weed grasses establishing in the new ley very rapidly.
 

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