Db990 Lift arms wont suddently move

Netherfield

Member
Location
West Yorkshire
Now I would be putting a pressure gauge on the camels hump, just to check what pressure the pump is delivering, chances are the hydraulic pump has blown the O ring off the spigot it sits on, you could be hearing oil escaping behind the pump.
At tick over if you pull the lever fully rearwards does it drop the engine revs any, a good pump could drop them 50 rpm or so.

The other problem you have is not uncommon, I could marvel at how someone had managed to tighten it so much, our local dealers made a tool to bolt on the top holding a screwdriver bit which fitted on the socket set forcing it well in to the slot.
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
I have know the pipe carrying the pressure feed into the camels hump fracture immediately below, it left just enough flow to lift the linkage very slowly but any weight on top pushed them back down
 

JacobJ

Member
Okay now an update. Got the cap off after some serious talk with it..

Cleaned it out (it wasnt dirty at all, but there was a bit off dirt in the small filter in the buttom of the valve), and startet it, and the lift did work as it should. I tried the dump valve, but it didnt dropped the linkage as I would expect. I thought it would just drop them fast? The lift lowered very slow, so I tried to adjust it on the lowering control nub, but then it suddently didnt work again. Turning the nub back again didnt work. Tried to disassemble it all again and cleaned it again, but it doesnt work.

Is it possible that the fault is related to the lowering control valve?
 

Bald n Grumpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Okay now an update. Got the cap off after some serious talk with it..

Cleaned it out (it wasnt dirty at all, but there was a bit off dirt in the small filter in the buttom of the valve), and startet it, and the lift did work as it should. I tried the dump valve, but it didnt dropped the linkage as I would expect. I thought it would just drop them fast? The lift lowered very slow, so I tried to adjust it on the lowering control nub, but then it suddently didnt work again. Turning the nub back again didnt work. Tried to disassemble it all again and cleaned it again, but it doesnt work.

Is it possible that the fault is related to the lowering control valve?
First of you wouldn't see if that valve was dirty it's such a small hole that your hydraulics have stopped before you could see anything ,
You mentioned previously that your oil was "whitish" . That's water in it and probably most of your problem, change the oil and the filter and clean the valve again, and possibly again until the problem stops.
I personally wouldn't touch anything else until you've done this.
It's a very common problem hence the mangled screw plug as when it happens away from home you usually manage to fix it with whatever you can find in the tractor toolbox which isn't always ideal.
 

Alchad

Member
You mentioned previously that your oil was "whitish" . That's water in it and probably most of your problem, change the oil and the filter and clean the valve again, and possibly again until the problem stops.
I personally wouldn't touch anything else until you've done this.
Absolutely 👍
 

JacobJ

Member
Have now ordered a new filter and gasket for the hydraulics. But I can't seem to find any info on, what type of transmission oil I have to get. 23 liters seems to be the volume, but the grade the oil has to have I can't find. Would and iso 32 or 46 work? What would be best? David brown et19/et33 ive found, which is also an iso 46 oil I have found. Would that be suitable?
 

Exfarmer

Member
Location
Bury St Edmunds
Have now ordered a new filter and gasket for the hydraulics. But I can't seem to find any info on, what type of transmission oil I have to get. 23 liters seems to be the volume, but the grade the oil has to have I can't find. Would and iso 32 or 46 work? What would be best? David brown et19/et33 ive found, which is also an iso 46 oil I have found. Would that be suitable?
Definitely not any of those, should be a UTO or SUTO ,
 

Bald n Grumpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
SUTO super universal tractor oil. It's not hydraulic oil and never put hydraulic oil in a DB backend but 10w 30 SUTO is ok for the engine and backend.
Used to be able to get universal tractor oil but haven't been able to for a long time here in UK
 

Alchad

Member
SUTO super universal tractor oil. It's not hydraulic oil and never put hydraulic oil in a DB backend but 10w 30 SUTO is ok for the engine and backend.
Used to be able to get universal tractor oil but haven't been able to for a long time here in UK
Smith and Allen do it - see link above, also Morris Lubricants


They also do 15-30, price seems very steep online, sure my local agricultural dealer is cheaper although last two lots I’ve bought have been Smith & Allen (good virtually next day service BTW)
 

Bald n Grumpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Smith and Allen do it - see link above, also Morris Lubricants


They also do 15-30, price seems very steep online, sure my local agricultural dealer is cheaper although last two lots I’ve bought have been Smith & Allen (good virtually next day service BTW)
Thanks
I buy a barrel of a local companies own brand SUTO when I need to, iirc correctly and I expect to be corrected if I'm wrong but isn't the only difference between UTO and SUTO is an additive in the SUTO for tractors with wet brakes ?????
 

JacobJ

Member
Gasket, filter and oil was put in today and now it works. The oil was dirty and there was some water in it. Filter was very dirty. Cleaned it all, and now it is working. Don't know how it can be, that that was the cause. It must be very sensitive as you also mentioned.

Thanks for all your help. Now its back to the cooling problem..
 

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