Philip Watkins
Member
- Location
- Back in Shropshire
-
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3D Printer
- Thread starter PuG
- Start date
PuG
Member
- Location
- Languedoc-Roussillon
Print time 2 hrs 48 minutes, with m10 thread! so no tapping afterwards - it should be closer to 50 minutes but I've got a problem with a jumping belt so slowed it right down!
0.29 grams of PetG filament used. With electric comes in at about 58 pence inc vat per print. Mole Valley £1.30 plus VAT each? Doing two a day and I need about hundred in total.. they're durable but will see in a few years after UV.
0.29 grams of PetG filament used. With electric comes in at about 58 pence inc vat per print. Mole Valley £1.30 plus VAT each? Doing two a day and I need about hundred in total.. they're durable but will see in a few years after UV.
spiders
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
Is design a big job? My son is desperate for a toy slurry pumping kit only 1 guy makes them and he's got such a waiting list I've given up on him. I could probably make a reeler after a pump and splash plate making.
PuG
Member
- Location
- Languedoc-Roussillon
Do you have a link to the toy?
Its not necessarily difficult, really depends on the complexity of the shape and if your basing the design off something you can sit down and measure. CAD is easy, most bits start life as primitives, cubes, spheres, cylinders etc (also points and lines) so your basically adding or subtracting to form three dimensional shapes you need. Its like assembling lego but you get to design each brick - the difficult bit is getting the right mindset to look at an item and deconstruct it down to its easy core primitives/components.
I did post a link to Tinker cad which is free and looks good - https://www.tinkercad.com
The problem then comes in how your fabricating it (I'm a farmer, not even remotely an engineer or formerly trained..), out of steel then your looking to try and work with existing stock, convient shapes, clearances for welding, bolting etc (and we all know with farm machinery clever engineers who design the stuff may not necessarily have left the office or held a spanner!). Same with 3d Printing, I'm still learning given I've only used my machine only a month! but there are limitations to work with, my next upgrade will be a duel extruding head so I can print water soluble support filament at the same time which basically solves any overhang problems...
Its not necessarily difficult, really depends on the complexity of the shape and if your basing the design off something you can sit down and measure. CAD is easy, most bits start life as primitives, cubes, spheres, cylinders etc (also points and lines) so your basically adding or subtracting to form three dimensional shapes you need. Its like assembling lego but you get to design each brick - the difficult bit is getting the right mindset to look at an item and deconstruct it down to its easy core primitives/components.
I did post a link to Tinker cad which is free and looks good - https://www.tinkercad.com
The problem then comes in how your fabricating it (I'm a farmer, not even remotely an engineer or formerly trained..), out of steel then your looking to try and work with existing stock, convient shapes, clearances for welding, bolting etc (and we all know with farm machinery clever engineers who design the stuff may not necessarily have left the office or held a spanner!). Same with 3d Printing, I'm still learning given I've only used my machine only a month! but there are limitations to work with, my next upgrade will be a duel extruding head so I can print water soluble support filament at the same time which basically solves any overhang problems...
Agree with the above, i use onshape for my cad i find it very good the best part about cad is you can cut, grind a lot of steel or what ever with the click off a mouse button it does and will take time to learn it, spiders put a picture up off the tanker see if some one will have a play with it, sorry just read slurry kit again put pictures up lets see how complex it is.
PuG
Member
- Location
- Languedoc-Roussillon
Onshape do a free version for public or non commercial, looks good: https://www.onshape.com/open-source
Right before you lot start with this cad program this can become addictive they will ring you up at some point to see if you want to sign up for full member ship, you have the same privilege ie same program, tools etc etc, as the pro:s so if you lot want to redesign the space shuttle pay up, what ever a year. the down side of not being a pro member is your designs are open to all and sundry ie onshape own the commercial rights to them, not a problem to me i'm just fred in a shed yep someone going to say this cad program is better then that one or solidworks is this and so on, it works for me and cost me nothing but my time so cant be bad, if nothing else.Sign up and do the learning center it will make you under stand how you should draw, design things also if you do a search in the public drawing, design there, is all sort of things PUG you need to do a search for 3d printers on there, may well help you // go and try it, it cost nothing to learn and the forum is very good they are there to help you. Well that's my 10p worth of thought for to day//////////.
spiders
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
https://www.modelfarmer.co.uk/implements/slurry-kat
I think tge issue will be getting the hitch right suitable for britains toy tractor, perhaps when I get some spare time I'll have a play with cad.
Cheers.
I think tge issue will be getting the hitch right suitable for britains toy tractor, perhaps when I get some spare time I'll have a play with cad.
Cheers.
TheTallGuy
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
I made the mistake of buying a cheap printer off eBay just to play with - now I have no time to work as I'm too busy messing around and making upgrades for it plus coming up with ideas for things to make. 
Oh well, at least it's too wet to do much outdoors anyway!
Oh well, at least it's too wet to do much outdoors anyway!Mind if I ask what ideas you have come up withI made the mistake of buying a cheap printer off eBay just to play with - now I have no time to work as I'm too busy messing around and making upgrades for it plus coming up with ideas for things to make. 
TheTallGuy
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Mostly replacement bits like trim clips, better dashcam mount and the mf690 needs the dashboard warning lights replacing - thinking of making something to hold leds in place of the bulbs. At the moment I'm playing with a design for a holder for the hydraulic connectors on the log splitter and forklift and mulling over something to keep lynch pins tidy - and most importantly a coffee cup holder!
PuG
Member
- Location
- Languedoc-Roussillon
Out of interest what filaments are you using?
But hours of fun! just did a new door socket for our CAT teleyhandler... all going well until my filament bonded so well with the glass bed its pulled up a chunk of glass cooling off.
Mursal
Member
Just to help the thought process ............
Lynch pin holder: We use 3 circles of 25mm light wall pipe, about 25mm long tacked together.side by side. With the middle one having a 8mm mounting bolt tacked on. Leave the bolt long enough (away from the mounting surface) so the pins can be dropped into the pipes and closed over. Very handy as you can un-clip a pin with one hand we mount them just over the three point linkages.
Lynch pin holder: We use 3 circles of 25mm light wall pipe, about 25mm long tacked together.side by side. With the middle one having a 8mm mounting bolt tacked on. Leave the bolt long enough (away from the mounting surface) so the pins can be dropped into the pipes and closed over. Very handy as you can un-clip a pin with one hand we mount them just over the three point linkages.
opininionated
Member
I made the mistake of buying a cheap printer off eBay just to play with - now I have no time to work as I'm too busy messing around and making upgrades for it plus coming up with ideas for things to make. 
Which cheap printer did you buy?
TheTallGuy
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Using cheap PLA off Amazon for the moment, I have some ABS and PETG filaments as well but I need to improve the print quality before there's any benefit to using them. I've bonded my glass to the bed with some 3M sheet to get rid of the clips and improve the heating - I struggled to get consistent adhesion so have now added a build sheet and it sticks like crazy.
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Latest-A8-...er-DIY-Kit-Gift-PLA-3D-Filament-/222760113213
It came partly assembled which was a pleasant surprise, the frame is a very cheap plywood which chips if you so much as look at it, the couplings between the Z motors and shafts are just bits of flexible tubing and there's no cable management. On the plus side, the X & Y belts have tension adjustment, it has a heated bed & glass plate and it's cheaper than buying a control board & motors on their own.
PuG
Member
- Location
- Languedoc-Roussillon
Latest print, my SaMASZ drum mower cuts incredibly short, 2"! printed two new 41mm deep spacers today to fit. The ones supplied are only 9mm in total. So the cutting height is now between 3 1/2 to 3 3/4" which is much better.
Shameless promotion, I have put them up for sale, if anyone is seriously interested then send me a PM. Its just a nominal price.
http://boutique.bouriech.fr/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=52
Shameless promotion, I have put them up for sale, if anyone is seriously interested then send me a PM. Its just a nominal price.
http://boutique.bouriech.fr/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=52
Last edited:
TheTallGuy
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Okay so not exactly agricultural, but had a minor emergency in that a piece of the bathroom blind disappeared in the middle of a bit of decorating - 3D printer to the rescue. Not sure if I'll get away with the colour - if not it's an excuse to obtain a roll of white filament!
