885XL fuse box

[Flat 10]

My IH fuse box keeps getting hot and melting which is very annoying when the power outlet stops working and therefore so does whatever implement control box you are using.............
Apparently the direct replacement (glass fuse type) is no longer available and the alternative looks like a fiddle to fit. Should I bite the bullet and get on with it or create a new (fused) power supply direct to the battery to run implement boxes? Any ideas/experiences @Gapples and there's a couple of others that run them on here. Other electrics are working ok but the plastic fusebox is melting and everything works apart from the front/ rear ploughing lights. TIA

 

[spin cycle]

sure about the fuses not being available...separate dedicated fused supply for control boxes?......mind you us old nasher users don't really bother with them thare control boxes....wires/levers/hydraulics...even string but leccy

 

[Flat 10]

sure about the fuses not being available...separate dedicated fused supply for control boxes?......mind you us old nasher users don't really bother with them thare control boxes....wires/levers/hydraulics...even string but leccy

Original type fuse BOX is no longer available. This ere nash is used with period 80's implements FYI............

 

[agrimax]

You've bad connections and high resistance at the fuses causing the heat.Probably blackened copper in the wiring as well giving high resistance too.
You could always go with one of these......
https://www.tractorparts.co.uk/CASE-INTERNATIONAL-XL-FUSE-BOX-1500942C1-12-Way-82948C1
But one of these would be better as the ceramic fuses for the above are crap.Blade fuses give a firmer connection.
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/standard-blade-fuse-box-side-terminals-12-way.html

 

[Exfarmer]

A direct fused supply would be very easy to fit , heavy wire to the starter solenoid main feed feeding a new fuse box very simple. Any motor factor will have the parts. Well worth putting a good earth in at the same time.

 

[Gapples]

My IH fuse box keeps getting hot and melting which is very annoying when the power outlet stops working and therefore so does whatever implement control box you are using.............
Apparently the direct replacement (glass fuse type) is no longer available and the alternative looks like a fiddle to fit. Should I bite the bullet and get on with it or create a new (fused) power supply direct to the battery to run implement boxes? Any ideas/experiences @Gapples and there's a couple of others that run them on here. Other electrics are working ok but the plastic fusebox is melting and everything works apart from the front/ rear ploughing lights. TIA

Hi
As others have said convert to blade type fuses if you can.
If you are powering extra work lights run in a new feed to a relay, use existing lights feed to switch the relay & fit circuit breakers to the new feed wire.
The 95 series uses blade fuses I would have thought those fuse boxes would still be available.
Also while you in there, remove & clean all the bulkhead connectors, they are a constant source of problems on these tractors, any sort of resistance will cause your fuses to overheat.

 

[Flat 10]

The 95 series uses blade fuses I would have thought those fuse boxes would still be available.
Also while you in there, remove & clean all the bulkhead connectors, they are a constant source of problems on these tractors, any sort of resistance will cause your fuses to overheat.

Yes, good tip. periodically remove these and clean.

 

[milkloss]

Yes, good tip. periodically remove these and clean.

And just hope they don’t fall apart in the process

 

[Mursal]

For additional control boxes power from battery terminal on starter with a fuse fitted as close to the starter (on the supply wire not the earth) as possible. Earth also from the frame of the starter or any other good clean metalwork. If you want this feed to switch off on the key, we'll need to fit a simple 4 pin relay, so shout.

 

[Flat 10]

Put a direct (fused) supply to battery for control box so cured that problem. Bought a cheap blade fuse box with the idea of replacing the old glass fuse type. Looking at it more closely I don't think this will be an easy replacement at all. Wires (with very little slack) are crimped to terminals that pass up through the plastic of the fuse box from underneath. Added to this there are 2 pairs of wires going to one end of many of the fuses (ie 4 to one end of a blade fuse) and I will seriously struggle to join all these in neatly/reliably. How have others managed I think I will probably makes things worse.

 

[Mursal]

Yes there is always that danger .............
Can you get a bit of slack along the loom and pull it back cutting the outer cover off just a touch to give you room to work?
Probably not, but you haven't many options. All for the sake of 50mm of extra wire

 

[Gapples]

Put a direct (fused) supply to battery for control box so cured that problem. Bought a cheap blade fuse box with the idea of replacing the old glass fuse type. Looking at it more closely I don't think this will be an easy replacement at all. Wires (with very little slack) are crimped to terminals that pass up through the plastic of the fuse box from underneath. Added to this there are 2 pairs of wires going to one end of many of the fuses (ie 4 to one end of a blade fuse) and I will seriously struggle to join all these in neatly/reliably. How have others managed I think I will probably makes things worse.

I'm afraid it's bite the bullet time, get the steering wheel offout the way, then the dash etc.
Take lots of photos for the purpose of remembering what wires go where.
Pick the wires out the old box, solder the relevant wires together with an extra length of suitability heavy cable to go to the new fusebox, obviously seal the solder, best use a piece of shrink wrap.
It's time consuming but should be a proper job once done.
Patient hat on & off you go.

 

[Mursal]

Good wet day and the radio on then so ..........

 

[Gapples]

I'm afraid it's bite the bullet time, get the steering wheel offout the way, then the dash etc.
Take lots of photos for the purpose of remembering what wires go where.
Pick the wires out the old box, solder the relevant wires together with an extra length of suitability heavy cable to go to the new fusebox, obviously seal the solder, best use a piece of shrink wrap.
It's time consuming but should be a proper job once done.
Patient hat on & off you go.

PS
I used to draw myself wiring diagram, mark the colours out as to where they go in the fuse box etc.
A bit old hat I know, but then I'm old lol.
Anyway it's good to use as a reference point to keep you right as you progress.

 

[Lakes Nash]

Doing a 885xl up, seems to have the common faults with the fuse box, they have been done in the past but not very neat, indicator relay flashes very fast, cannot get independent side to work but hazard work,

 

[irish robbie]

is there a main fuse for work lights 885xl it seems all lights on top of cab playing up

 

[Richard Devon]

those fuse boxes are a right BALL ACHE to work on!......those poxy fuse holders are terrible.
You might find a fuse holder from someone like Ron Greet, he has a heap of looms there from Case IHs and I am sure I have seen the later 95 series blade fuse holders there.

 

[Gapples]

those fuse boxes are a right BALL ACHE to work on!......those poxy fuse holders are terrible.
You might find a fuse holder from someone like Ron Greet, he has a heap of looms there from Case IHs and I am sure I have seen the later 95 series blade fuse holders there.

Absolutely Richard, best thing you do with those old fuse holders is get rid, replace with blade fuses

 

[Kieraneire]

hi

 

[Kieraneire]

Im struggling to find correct wiring diagrams/ manuals for my older IH885xl .. 1986 International , no mention of Case. Mine has the colour coded cab block connections, glass bottle fuse box. Battery under cab, Really appreciate any help.