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- Oxfordshire
How are people picking up the packs once they’re baled?
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Big bale grab with extra row of tines.
Got to have the larger hooks to get enough grip in the sides of the bales. One advantage of the flat 8 is you can pick up packs slightly on an angle, which make stacking into shed corners etc far easier. Downside is that if the packs are loose the bottom layer will sag when picked up.
we had a browns big bale grab, The hay was very short seeds, the grab kept pulling through the bales
Did it have an extra row of hooks though? If you don't get the hooks into the end bale of the pack then all the weight goes onto the last hook which pulls out and so on. I also have a short row of 4 spikes (about 4-5" long) fitted to a beam bolted to the head plate, where the hooks pull the pack towards. They go into the first bale and give some extra support at the near end. I also make the bales as solid as possible, and a bit shorter to compensate. A tight 38" bale is better than a looser 42" one. Hence I run my packer on 3 strings, not 4.
Yes, it had 5 rows. I upped the bale density and shortened the bales. They were still heavier than I would like. Do you know what weight your bales are? It was very brittle material.
How are people picking up the packs once they’re baled?
Yes, it had 5 rows. I upped the bale density and shortened the bales. They were still heavier than I would like. Do you know what weight your bales are? It was very brittle material.
I run my Welgar's on 8600 string same as my packers.
For picking up packs just use a side squeeze (Broadwater) but then I only ever make packs of 10.
I’d concentrate more on the packer pressure, you don’t want to make the bales too heavy, it defeats the object of having small bales. On fluffy meadow hay you need to be running at a pack pressure of at least 200 bar, maybe up to 220. Only run down to 160 bar for really tight, dry bales of straw. Obviously you’ll need to adjust pack pressure to the conditions and to some extent the strength of the twine you are using in the baler. 12,000 twine isn’t really good enough for bales that are going to be packed, you need at least to be on 10,000 and 9250 is the best if your baler can handle it. You’ll need to check with your baler’s manufacture about using 9250, a Welger certainly can cope with it.
Thats interesting, I was sorely tempted to try 8600 in my small baler, because my packs suffer from popped strings on bales, even on 9250, but was afraid I might break something
But it works OK on Welgar knotters? What adjustments if any were needed?
Despite running 9250 in my small baler, I still regularly pop the bale strings in the packs at 160bar.....I think it must be the knotters in my baler (JD459) they are very reliable, but seem to stress the string when forming the knot, and when the pressure is put on in the pack they can break, right by the knot every time.
We were popping bale strings in the packer when pushing hard and nearly all our bales are haylage at 4ft and tight. 8600 in the baler really helps.Do not do baling myself but I gather the only issue is the knotts where you join balls . Need to keep as small and neat as possible.
I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about having never driven one...but I will pass this tip onto the baler drivers and hopefully they will understand.Personally I wouldn’t want to be running on 8600 in my baler, it certainly isn’t necessary in hay and straw but I can understand that in a 4ft haylage bale you might have to. The art of joining string that is a bit too thick for the application is to split the ends of the twine in half, cut one half of each string a bit shorter and then form two knots joining the long and short twines of each string together. The art ( and it takes some practice) is to get the two knots positioned so that when the twine is pulled tight both halves are in equal tension.
Personally I wouldn’t want to be running on 8600 in my baler, it certainly isn’t necessary in hay and straw but I can understand that in a 4ft haylage bale you might have to. The art of joining string that is a bit too thick for the application is to split the ends of the twine in half, cut one half of each string a bit shorter and then form two knots joining the long and short twines of each string together. The art ( and it takes some practice) is to get the two knots positioned so that when the twine is pulled tight both halves are in equal tension.