thicker of course when new but Horners sharpening looks spot on to me if ive put any of them on my Hollow Gauge when they're new just out of interest.
mine however..
Basic shearing machine/clippers
- Thread starter Green farmer
- Start date
mine however..
- Location
- Dumfries & Galloway
thicker of course when new but Horners sharpening looks spot on to me if ive put any of them on my Hollow Gauge when they're new just out of interest.
mine however..
That has nothing to do with you or your grinding/technique...
The only thing that dictates hollow grind is the shape of the grinding disk. Everything you grind on your disc will end up with the same hollow, regardless
yeah i think youre right as thats pretty much what the guide notes say with the hollow gauge.... its looking like the disc is not right, new one will be on the cards when i sell more lambs i reckon
i just didn't want to be a poor workmen blaming his tool
- Location
- Dumfries & Galloway
yeah i think youre right as thats pretty much what the guide notes say with the hollow gauge.... its looking like the disc is not right, new one will be on the cards when i sell more lambs i reckon
i just didn't want to be a poor workmen blaming his tool
The size of the hollow isn't that important... as long as there is a hollow.
Your combs and cutters are matched to the hollow your disk grinds. Any issues you're seeing (sharpness or the metal not holding it's edge) is coming from your grinding.
well the hollow isn't there even half decent,after ive sharpened mine thats clear from and since using the h.guage, and in comparison with new combs put on it,they show text book hollow grinds in my view and the guide note pics.
ive altered the setting of the pendulum all ways its makes no difference to the hollow.
but theres always a decent edge put on .
the only other thing i could try is to put comb paper on my cutter disc and see what thats like.
doesn't help them being a smaller diameter wheel either.
- Location
- Dumfries & Galloway
It'll be the size of your disc giving you the issues maybe...
But new Lister kit, the hollow is bigger/more pronounced than other makes combs/cutters for example. They all vary.
You can try new discs, but don't expect it just to cure any issues. It might, if you're discs as almost totally flat...
Just remember if you do buy new discs, you need to grind that hollow into your gear. You might need to do the combs a few times before sparks are coming up even (you'll can see what's happening if you look at the ground side, catching it in the light). But be careful not to over heat the combs or cutters
im aware of metal and heat pretty good because im a metal worker not a carpenter
and well ive adjusted my standing position and do that that constantly now and pressure is fine sparks are even upwards , ive improved everything but it hasnt put the hollow on combs, thats why they dont cut, well unless you put on a lot of tension even then they cut no where near as well as new combs and for as long.
new discs are alloy now so that might help the bearings on my machine last better not that theyve ever worn out. but could be a bit safer .
they can warp or something apparently and the hollow guage notes say that as well, with regards to a poor hollow.
but ive never overheated a disc so not sure how it would, just old age i guess
- Location
- Perthshire, Scotland
Be careful how much pressure you put on the cutters when grinding. There is such a thing as too much hollow.
When the cutters are new, and full thickness, they can’t flex under the pressure of the tension pin on the handpiece. If the hollow is too deep then they won’t sit down onto the comb. That will cause either a fluffy finish to the sheep or woolled up cutters (maybe both).
It’s not so much of an issue when the cutters are thin because they can flex to meet the comb.
@Bury the Trash You won’t heat up your disc, no matter on its age or diameter, only combs and cutters will heat up
When the cutters are new, and full thickness, they can’t flex under the pressure of the tension pin on the handpiece. If the hollow is too deep then they won’t sit down onto the comb. That will cause either a fluffy finish to the sheep or woolled up cutters (maybe both).
It’s not so much of an issue when the cutters are thin because they can flex to meet the comb.
@Bury the Trash You won’t heat up your disc, no matter on its age or diameter, only combs and cutters will heat up
- Location
- Dumfries & Galloway
im aware of metal and heat pretty good because im a metal worker not a carpenter
and well ive adjusted my standing position and do that that constantly now and pressure is fine sparks are even upwards , ive improved everything but it hasnt put the hollow on combs, thats why they dont cut, well unless you put on a lot of tension even then they cut no where near as well as new combs and for as long.
new discs are alloy now so that might help the bearings on my machine last better not that theyve ever worn out. but could be a bit safer .
they can warp or something apparently and the hollow guage notes say that as well, with regards to a poor hollow.
but ive never overheated a disc so not sure how it would, just old age i guess
The disc warping isn't from heat, its from laying or learning on something when not being used... being Ali alloy they are more 'fluid' and will bend/warp/sag under their own weight if leaned up against a wall, say. To store them lay them flat (in their clamp) or leave them vertical on the grinder.
It actually sounds like you're maybe not grinding your kit quite long enough... Very common and something I think I can be guilty of.
Remember that to get it (properly) sharp you must remove all of the blunt metal.
It isn't as simple as this, at all... but let's say it takes 15 seconds of grinding to get a cutter perfect. If you only grind for 10 seconds it will seem sharp - but you didn't get rid of all the worn/blunt edge... So it's not perfect sharp and It won't cut as well or last as long
So, made another attempt at shearing again today. Its working much better now. Still cannt get right down to a clean shear. It starts out fine on entry to the fleece, but then rides up abit as the shear progresses. I think its abit down to the 5mm combs I got, but mainly down to the quality of the operator. Technique...... he ain't got none.
Starting to miss my jakoti and going to speed up the changeover to shedders. The sooner the better.
Starting to miss my jakoti and going to speed up the changeover to shedders. The sooner the better.- Location
- East Ayrshire
I'm by no means an expert but sounds as if you're lacking the confidence and/or technique to keep the comb tight to the skin.
Ya, I'll keep tweaking the technique and practice until I get the hang of it.
- Location
- North Wales
That countryman comb will try and ride out of the wool too which won't be helping. The teeth are very thick on the backs especially the gliders so it'll lift out rather than stay on the skin.
When shearing, do you try and keep the tips of the comb pointing down on the skin, or do you try and keep it flat on the skin ?
- Location
- North Wales
Try and keep it parallel so handpiece runs flat along the skin and then follow the curve of the sheep
JD-Kid
Member
- Location
- Akaroa.. New Zealand
the early chinaman stuff was crap hear they brought a heap of steel when sunbeam went under. and thats were there combs and cutters have got a lot better
- Tags
- atv land rover rye