Buying a MF 6475

[Matty6270]

Hi there. I’m thinking off buying a 2008 MF 6475, there is 7000 hrs on in but looks in excellent condition. For the past 10 years I’ve had a 6270. Just wondering is there anything to look out for on the 6475 before I seal the deal. Also tractor has not got cab suspension, well I don’t see any shock absorbers on the rear from the pictures. Are they bouncy like the 6270 without suspension.
Any info really appreciated

 

[Pringles]

The cab suspension on that range was/is very problematic, so you have done well to find one without it. Has it front axle suspension?

If the 6270 that you have had does not have front suspension then the 6475 will be very similar to drive.

The keyboard experts on here don't like the Dyna 6 gearbox but I'm afraid I reckon it's a much better gearbox than the Dynashift.

 

[Matty6270]

Ok.the 6270 is ok to drive when your used to no air suspension. But in general are they a good tractor

 

[john432]

I have a 6475, very pleased with it , bar the cab suspension. Allways wallows around too much for my liking. So a solid version could be better. The Dyna6 gearbox takes a bit of getting accustomed to, the change from 3 to 4 range has a delay, and needs to be anticipated on hills with a heavy load as not to loose all momentum. Economy PTO is worth having , as mowing etc at 1550 engine rpm makes the tractor very economical.

 

[Matty6270]

This is the picture off the t bar. But I see some 6475 are different as this doesn’t have the large nob under the gauge where it shows what gear you are in. I honesty know nothing about this T bar gearbox.

 

[Rob Graham]

This is the picture off the t bar. But I see some 6475 are different as this doesn’t have the large nob under the gauge where it shows what gear you are in. I honesty know nothing about this T bar gearbox.

Yes, the round dial will be for the Autodrive and Speed-Matching settings for road and field mode (road mode enabling changes through the ranges eg. From 3A--4F and field mode limiting the auto changes to the range you are in eg. 3A--3F) Tbh I got much more use from the auto-button on the Dynashift armrest than the dial on the Dyna6, just seemed more convenient i.e empty trailer on one setting and full on the other

 

[Matty6270]

So has the tractor not got any off that. Would it make a difference without this.
Thanks for the reply

 

[Rob Graham]

If the previous pic is of the tractor you are purchasing then no, it hasn't got Autodrive. I've never driven one without but I see just behind the armrest is a small dial which I think would control the shuttle sharpness, maybe someone who has one like this could fill us in of they have Speed-Matching available through the matrix screen maybe?

 

[ffukedfarmer]

Autodrive I could easily live without. Speed-matching, I couldn't.

I'm not sure if the non autodrive tractors have speed-matching or not.

 

[Matty6270]

So could this be a problem do you think. The tractor looks in great condition with excellent tyres. Not sure what to do. Also no cab suspension but I never had this in my 6270 so don’t think I would mind

 

[Matty6270]

Yes, the round dial will be for the Autodrive and Speed-Matching settings for road and field mode (road mode enabling changes through the ranges eg. From 3A--4F and field mode limiting the auto changes to the range you are in eg. 3A--3F) Tbh I got much more use from the auto-button on the Dynashift armrest than the dial on the Dyna6, just seemed more convenient i.e empty trailer on one setting and full on the other

I do see some sort of small dial gauge in that picture we’re the auto drive should be

 

[Matty6270]

Autodrive I could easily live without. Speed-matching, I couldn't.

I'm not sure if the non autodrive tractors have speed-matching or not.

Hi

This is a picture from another massy 5455 with a similar dial nob. Any idea what this is

 

[Cowabunga]

This is the picture off the t bar. But I see some 6475 are different as this doesn’t have the large nob under the gauge where it shows what gear you are in. I honesty know nothing about this T bar gearbox.

You are much better off without that big round 'Autodrive' dial. This will have speed matching and a programmable start-off gear, but make sure a dealer changes the start-off sequence to a two-handed affair if, as is probable, it hasn't been already. Its just a tick in the box on a laptop to set it up that way and saves much frustration at road junctions and everywhere. Better still, get them to do that and to set it to OF [Off] in the dash, so that it starts off in the gear you stop, unless you choose to simply change it with the T lever or Power Control [shuttle] lever.

Speed matching is standard, even on early Dyna4 [NOT Dynashift, which are the earlier models] 5400 tractors.

 

[Cowabunga]

Hi

This is a picture from another massy 5455 with a similar dial nob. Any idea what this is

It just adjusts the sharpness of the power-shuttle clutch if you don't use the clutch pedal.

 

[Matty6270]

It just adjusts the sharpness of the power-shuttle clutch if you don't use the clutch pedal.

Ah ok. So you think it would be a good enough buy. I’ve a picture attached. It looks very clean and the garage says it’s prefect in every way. I’m just disappointed about the no cab suspension.when this tractor was bought new could it of been just bog standard with no extras

 

[Cowabunga]

Ah ok. So you think it would be a good enough buy. I’ve a picture attached. It looks very clean and the garage says it’s prefect in every way. I’m just disappointed about the no cab suspension.when this tractor was bought new could it of been just bog standard with no extras

Yes. Check the hydraulics. It may be open centre with just the one 60lpm fixed displacement gear pump. That's fine if your hydraulic requirement is limited but may not be adequate for loader work or tipping 12ton+ trailers quickly. It will do the job, but it might seem frustratingly slowly if you are on an intensive schedule. Particularly loader work with a loader suitable for a tractor that size.

On the bright side, open centre is very simple and the pump is cheap to replace relatively speaking, should it wear out. If it does wear out and hydraulic flow decreases markedly, do not delay swapping the pump for a new one.

 

[Bullring]

Have the plates been done in the gearbox, common fault, one tell tale sign is to put it in 1st range and shuttle from forward to neutral, if it carries on in reverse then their is drag in the gearbox and plates need doing so budget around 2-3k. Has the damper plate ever been done? Check the exhaust stack as their another weak point and new one is £700.

 

[Cowabunga]

Have the plates been done in the gearbox, common fault, one tell tale sign is to put it in 1st range and shuttle from forward to neutral, if it carries on in reverse then their is drag in the gearbox and plates need doing so budget around 2-3k. Has the damper plate ever been done? Check the exhaust stack as their another weak point and new one is £700.

I just did the exhaust on my 7490 and just changed the bottom elbow. It didn't cost anything like that much. At 7000 hours, the damper plate has probably been changed, as early ones were problematic. All damper plates are problematic, as I changed the one on my New Holland a couple of years ago because it was worn out. Again, best change in good time if faulty to prevent expensive collateral damage.

 

[Bullring]

I can assure you a genuine stack from my local main dealer is £700 as the baffles have gone in mine and I need a new one as I now get back pressure and the turbo whistles more when easing off downhill and then accelerating afterwards.

 

[Cowabunga]

I can assure you a genuine stack from my local main dealer is £700 as the baffles have gone in mine and I need a new one as I now get back pressure and the turbo whistles more when easing off downhill and then accelerating afterwards.

The main stack is probably very expensive. Don't know about the 6480 and smaller tractors but my T2 7490 has a straight through muffler design with only a course mesh tube up inside. You can look through the bottom of the detached exhaust and see right up to the outlet at the top. I'd just put a bar through anything that corroded and blocked the inside. There may well be baffles or something external to the inner perforated tube, between it and the outer skin, but the tube is straight through.
The 5445 T3 doesn't even pretend to have any innards. Its just a simple straight tube and sounds like it.

No doubt my main stack will fail some day, but for now it remains in fine fettle. It was a heck of a job to get the broken part of the lower elbow out, without damaging it though. The two parts had fused together somewhat over the years.