case 895 hydraulic filter

[deniscooper]

hi,

anyone know about changing the hydraulic filter on case 895 stockman special....I've notice the laoder and 3 point linkage seem to be quite sluggish and the thought the filter probably hasn't ever been changed.

I've seen a couple of different videos on YouTube. I believe its a at the back of the cab behind the rear wheel, but some people have said I may need to remove the back wheel to get to it..

 

[agrimax]

It's fairly obvious in it's location,in a round bowl behind the front of the left back wheel. Don't need the wheel off. 19mm spanner and a bucket to catch oil. The system won't empty when you remove thebowl but there will be an amount of oil runs out. Slacken the centre bolt,and you may need to tap the bowl to free it,remove filter and take out the inner bypass gauze and flush it in kerosene or such like. Make sure it's put back in the way it came out. It's not vital you replace the big o ring but if a new one comes with the filter(some don't),remove the old one and carefully push the new one into the groove,making sure it's not twisted. Refit the filter and bowl and do not over tighten the bolt. Just nip it up. If the steering and hyds don't work on start up,the system will need primed but it's moreso if the oil has been changed when that's required.

 

[deniscooper]

It's fairly obvious in it's location,in a round bowl behind the front of the left back wheel. Don't need the wheel off. 19mm spanner and a bucket to catch oil. The system won't empty when you remove thebowl but there will be an amount of oil runs out. Slacken the centre bolt,and you may need to tap the bowl to free it,remove filter and take out the inner bypass gauze and flush it in kerosene or such like. Make sure it's put back in the way it came out. It's not vital you replace the big o ring but if a new one comes with the filter(some don't),remove the old one and carefully push the new one into the groove,making sure it's not twisted. Refit the filter and bowl and do not over tighten the bolt. Just nip it up. If the steering and hyds don't work on start up,the system will need primed but it's moreso if the oil has been changed when that's required.

thanks - ill take a look in the morning - if it does need to primed how is that done?

 

[agrimax]

Can sometimes get away with slackening the power steering feed pipe below the filter bowl.(I think) Start engine and wait for an oil flow free of bubbles but the more common way is to remove the larger of the two plugs below the filter bowl but facing the ground. Catch the spring and then slide a finger up in and pull out the flow divider. Keep a bucket underneath and start the engine. A few seconds running should be enough for plenty of oil to run out. Replace the flow divider,spring and plug.

 

[feilding]

why not change the oil at the same time, if the filter has not been changed for a long time, the oil needs changing. what else has not been done ?. sounds as the tractor needs a full service.
if I remember right. internationals need a service every 200 hrs or once a year, whichever is first. the hydraulic filter needs replacing every year.

 

[Gapples]

why not change the oil at the same time, if the filter has not been changed for a long time, the oil needs changing. what else has not been done ?. sounds as the tractor needs a full service.
if I remember right. internationals need a service every 200 hrs or once a year, whichever is first. the hydraulic filter needs replacing every year.

Engine oil and filter are every 200 hours, transmission/hydraulic oil and filter every 800 hours.

 

[feilding]

Engine oil and filter are every 200 hours, transmission/hydraulic oil and filter every 800 hours.

that's it trans oil every 800 hrs but hydraulic filter every 200 hrs. as engine oil/filter. remember now.

 

[startinghandle]

It's fairly obvious in it's location,in a round bowl behind the front of the left back wheel. Don't need the wheel off. 19mm spanner and a bucket to catch oil. The system won't empty when you remove thebowl but there will be an amount of oil runs out. Slacken the centre bolt,and you may need to tap the bowl to free it,remove filter and take out the inner bypass gauze and flush it in kerosene or such like. Make sure it's put back in the way it came out. It's not vital you replace the big o ring but if a new one comes with the filter(some don't),remove the old one and carefully push the new one into the groove,making sure it's not twisted. Refit the filter and bowl and do not over tighten the bolt. Just nip it up. If the steering and hyds don't work on start up,the system will need primed but it's moreso if the oil has been changed when that's required.

You know your stuff but I disagree when you say there's no need to change sealing ring in bowl
Also the oil cooler should be checked

 

[feilding]

Not changing the big o ring can cause leaks, not always oil leak but can suck air in. seen it happen. also, the little o ring around the head of bolt needs replacing, both o rings are with a new filter so no excuse. as been said before the bolt does not need overtightening. used to run international's in the late '70s to late '80s. so changed a fair few filters.

 

[agrimax]

New o rings should come with new filters but they're not always present. I've found if the old o ring isn't disturbed, and you don't have a new one, it usually reseals ok.