Case International 885XL Gear Linkage

rhyds

Member
Can anyone here give me some pointers about sorting out the gear linkage on a Case-IH 885XL please?

We're slowly putting right various bodges and lack of maintenance on our new purchase, but the problem is that the speed selector linkage has more play in it than the Royal Shakespeare Company (we're talking inches of lost motion rather than millimetres!)

We're planning to get the tractor up on the blocks and a wheel off to take a look at exactly what's happening with the linkage, but I would appreciate any advice or common issues we need to look out for on the linkage and if there's any adjustment that can be done to tighten things up.
 

Gapples

Member
It's really just a case of getting wheel & panels off & checking the external linkage.
Nothing rocket science about it & any external free play should be easy enough to see & fix.
Your problems will start if you need to take the gearbox top cover off & go inside the speed box, but get the linkage checked out first
 

rhyds

Member
It's really just a case of getting wheel & panels off & checking the external linkage.
Nothing rocket science about it & any external free play should be easy enough to see & fix.
Your problems will start if you need to take the gearbox top cover off & go inside the speed box, but get the linkage checked out first

Thanks for the advice. The box itself seems fine as when you do get a gear it stays in OK, its just that you need to really ram the stick back to almost "throw" the linkage far enough to select a gear properly.
 

Gapples

Member
The problem we have is that the stick is bashing against the housing just before the gears are selected. I'm doing all I can to persuade my dad not to take a chunk out of the plastic housing as a bodge!

Nah don't bodge it, it will more than likely be just be linkage wear, bushes & ball ends.
Tip.....take a few photos before you rip apart though
 

essexpete

Member
Location
Essex
The linkage was not the best but I do think wear was increased by users fighting the gear box at times. Easier to select range if 4 speed in neutral, tractor at standstill before moving range lever and clutch fully depressed (important in hi TA)
 

rhyds

Member
Ours doesn't have a TA and the range control isn't that bad (though a bit stiff at times). As mentioned I think we'll have a good look at the shift linkages and take it from there.
 

Azlett

Member
Location
Taunton
Ours doesn't have a TA and the range control isn't that bad (though a bit stiff at times). As mentioned I think we'll have a good look at the shift linkages and take it from there.
OH took his in for a new clutch and asked to look at range linkage because going into high hits the plastic. They said there was no adjustment left, must be something up in the gearbox and ground a notch out of the plastic! It still works...
 

markpentre

Member
Location
wrexham
on my 895 xl i found a lot of wear on the selector levers that travell in the plates. stripped all down and built up with weld and filed to correct profile. also some shimming were i could. fitted new strong return springs. made a massive difference just takes a bit of time messing about. didnt need to take the wheel off either
 

bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
Hi guys, got a similar problem on a 74 series with the sliding gears, it's now possible and very easy to move range lever into reverse without actually disconnecting high. You then need to crawl underneath and manually move linkages to a spot they mesh again.
Is there an easy fix, ie. just build up the slide guides or is it a problem inside?
 
Hi guys, got a similar problem on a 74 series with the sliding gears, it's now possible and very easy to move range lever into reverse without actually disconnecting high. You then need to crawl underneath and manually move linkages to a spot they mesh again.
Is there an easy fix, ie. just build up the slide guides or is it a problem inside?
just worn linkage very common but not difficult to cure just takes a bit of effort. There's not much goes wrong internally in these boxes but the linkage is a bit complicated though.
 

Gapples

Member
Hi guys, got a similar problem on a 74 series with the sliding gears, it's now possible and very easy to move range lever into reverse without actually disconnecting high. You then need to crawl underneath and manually move linkages to a spot they mesh again.
Is there an easy fix, ie. just build up the slide guides or is it a problem inside?

As previously said this is extremely common on these tractors.
It's just wear & tear on the external linkage, you can either replace or repair the worn items.
IE. The gate ( slot ) that the tongue moves through in neutral position will be worn as will the tongue itself, check the rest of the linkage as well & make sure the gate piece is tight on the shaft.
Hope this makes sense, it should when you look at it.
 

milkloss

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
East Sussex
We used to have a 885XL. Front loader on it as well.

We kept a hammer in the cab permanently as the shaft just fitted nicely through the handbrake slot and could be used to push the selector back into place when it popped out.

We used to have a bit of bale string ties to the selector with a t handle made out of an old broom stick. Full clutching and confident gear changes are key to avoid the use of the 'puller'.
 

gadzooks

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Northwest UK
Think I have the same problem with my 885XL..?

Was trundling around yard all OK everything working as normal.

Left hand gear lever with H gate was over to the left and forward, engaged in 'forward low speed'

Right hand gear lever with H gate was over to the left and forward (1st gear?)

Clutch down, stopped, handbrake on, pulled both levers to neutral, clutch up.

Dropped a loader bucket full of soil into pig pen.

Clutch down, tried to pull left hand lever rearwards to engage 'reverse low speed', didn't feel like it engaged.

Clutch up, it still wants to go forward.

No amount of hammer, WD40, prodding linkages, pulling and pushing sticks, engaging/disengaging rabbit and tortoise on the TA etc, has so far gotten it out of forward.

Levers are both really sloppy & have been for ever since I got the tractor.

I'm having trouble visualising the external gearchange linkages, and I've failed at finding any decent pictures or diagrams online. Does anyone have any good pics that might help? As regards what bits to push and pull and get lined up to make neutral happen. All my attempts to free it so far have been pretty much guesswork in the dark.

I understand there might be an access plate on the floor of the cab to make it easier to get to the linkages above the gearbox?
 
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milkloss

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
East Sussex
I can’t remember exactly how they work but get underneath the tractor and sit up with your back against the inside of the left rear wheel. You’ll see better from that position.

I remember we had a cable going through past the gear lever so you could snatch it up and disengage the gear…. A right bodge but got us going again.
 

milkloss

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
East Sussex
Bolt 14 goes through the hole on 12 so as you move the lever it pivots in two directions. The square end of 12 (probably worn) goes through plate 6 (also probably worn). You see it has a curve cut out of it with a notch. When you move the lever correctly it engages the notch and move the linkage as you push the lever forwards/backwards…..sideways engages the notch in one plate or the other . When it doesn’t engage the notch in one it is free to move the other plate. One plate for one and two second plate for three and fourth gear. The square bar and notch are worn so when you pull it out of gear it leaves the plate and linkage engaged in gear. You can avoid this by emphasising the gear lever movement and making sure it pulls the plate and linkage out.
I have no idea if that makes sense!
 

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