Cultivating depths

clbarclay

Member
Location
Worcestershire
Just a quick one what depth of tillage would you class as min till and what depth would you class maxi till ? And what do people think is the optimum depth where fuel and time are saved but crop performance is not compromised?
:ROFLMAO:
This one could last all winter until all the arable farmers have some actual cultivation to distract them.
 

Drillman

Member
Mixed Farmer
Anything more that is needed is bad

Why would anyone spend money they don't need to, it's beyond me
People love recreational cultivation. Or at least round here they do.

I did some combo drilling for a neighbour last backend and he insisted on working it down in front of me. Fine by me cos it made it easy going, but if I had of been him I would have had a quick scoot round to fill furrow holes in then done the rest straight on the ploughing.
 
min till should be les than 2 inches depth

maxitill is no inversion tillage usually 6 to 8 inches

plough is plough

before the 1970s and big hp tractors ploughing was as shallow as possible often 5 inches

over the years I have done them all for many reasons

ploughing was developed to remove weed seeds and trash so drill coulters could work

with the advent of combines ploughing became the norm as the weed seeds were not removed by the binder and lest in the stack yard but the development of herbicides removed the need for cultivations that helped with weed control

min till and no till could proliferate

if herbicides become so restrictive then ploughing will have to return

I notill now but if herbicides get restricted then ploughing and livestock will both return
the cost will be a lot of iron and fuel 10 times the iron we use now and 3 times the fuel
there will be less worms and wild life in and on the soil
 

John 1594

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
People love recreational cultivation. Or at least round here they do.

I did some combo drilling for a neighbour last backend and he insisted on working it down in front of me. Fine by me cos it made it easy going, but if I had of been him I would have had a quick scoot round to fill furrow holes in then done the rest straight on the ploughing.


It does make a difference sometimes

compare the beet land we drilled, disced 3 or 4 times, power harrowed, then front press, powerharrow and drill

over the other side of the road, neighbour went in with a C tine straight behind the beet harvester. Twice over with that, then front powerharrow, rear powerharrow and drill

The stuff we drilled that was got ready properly is about 3 weeks ahead, and doest have yellow stripes caused by compaction and not mixing the beet tops in well enough
 

Drillman

Member
Mixed Farmer
It does make a difference sometimes

compare the beet land we drilled, disced 3 or 4 times, power harrowed, then front press, powerharrow and drill

over the other side of the road, neighbour went in with a C tine straight behind the beet harvester. Twice over with that, then front powerharrow, rear powerharrow and drill

The stuff we drilled that was got ready properly is about 3 weeks ahead, and doest have yellow stripes caused by compaction and not mixing the beet tops in well enough
That's fair enough but I'm talking about going onto ploughed land that can easily be made into a seedbed in one pass with a half decent combi.
 
It does make a difference sometimes

compare the beet land we drilled, disced 3 or 4 times, power harrowed, then front press, powerharrow and drill

over the other side of the road, neighbour went in with a C tine straight behind the beet harvester. Twice over with that, then front powerharrow, rear powerharrow and drill

The stuff we drilled that was got ready properly is about 3 weeks ahead, and doest have yellow stripes caused by compaction and not mixing the beet tops in well enough

You plough twice dont you?
 

Drillman

Member
Mixed Farmer
You plough twice dont you?
I think these multiple passes on 10-20 acres aren't really noticeable from a cost POV especially if using a few old tractors and Womble machinery.

However scale things up to the 2-3000 acre man and all of a sudden you need many multiples of tractors and every knackered cultivator out of every collective sale you can lay your hands on. Then there is the issue of finding drivers for it all.

Obviously one alternative is the Quadtrack......... that's currently being discussed elsewhere so I needn't elaborate any more.

Another option is have a complete rethink............ maybe braver men than me but as the top paragraph pretty much is my system it's not my worry.
 

Oat

Member
Location
Cheshire
unlike the fashionable "stale seedbed" approach which involves 2/3 applications of 1.5l/ha
If someone is doing 2-3 stale seedbeds, then I would assume they are doing it for a very good reason good (blackgrass control?), therefore I would say it is necessarily a bad thing (which you post possibly implies). The important point is that they get total kill each time from using an appropriate rate for the conditions and weed sizes they are targeting.
If the stale seedbed just contains a chit of volunteer cereals and blackgrass at 1-2 leaves, then 1.5 l/ha is probably enough. Although resistance to pesticides can develop from repeated use of the same products, or poor application (inc. rate), with a non selective herbicide like glyphosate, it should be easier to get total kill, and therefore there is much less chance of any weeds surviving; also the if used for stale seedbed destruction, then the mechanical operations of cultivation and drilling will help reduce resistance.
 

Bman

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Cambs Essex
How affective is mechanical destruction on 1 to 2 leaf back grass. I ask this because if we lose round up I can't see the big units who get over the land not ploughing going back to ploughing every thing.
 

Brisel

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Midlands
How affective is mechanical destruction on 1 to 2 leaf back grass. I ask this because if we lose round up I can't see the big units who get over the land not ploughing going back to ploughing every thing.

I've rarely done better than 70% control of plants with discs or tines
 

Oat

Member
Location
Cheshire
How affective is mechanical destruction on 1 to 2 leaf back grass. I ask this because if we lose round up I can't see the big units who get over the land not ploughing going back to ploughing every thing.
Mechanical destruction isn't just ploughing. If you can mechanically bury the plants, then yes there will be extremely good control. But a 'lighter' cultivation with discs of tines can still chop the plant or uproot it enough that it will dry out and die- for this conditions for this are more important though, as there can be a risk that the plants may re-root if they don't die quick enough.

In a similar vain, mowing or topping is a method of weed control. But you have to target the growth stage correctly and perform it when all the energy is in the top of the plant, then often there is not enough energy left in the root for the plant to regrow. If you get this wrong with a weed like creeping thistle, then you can make the situation 10x worse :(

I've rarely done better than 70% control of plants with discs or tines
Every little helps (y) But I assume in this case your not cultivating to control weeds, your cultivating to get a seedbed. But it has the added benefit of giving some weed control. I assume your using glyphosate as you main weed control method?
 

Brisel

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Midlands
Every little helps (y) But I assume in this case your not cultivating to control weeds, your cultivating to get a seedbed. But it has the added benefit of giving some weed control. I assume your using glyphosate as you main weed control method?

last time I relied on this was where I had a contractor doing all the spraying, so the glyphosate was only pre drilling. I was discing to break down clods on clay horses heads ploughing after fallow on dirty ground. The aim was also to get another chit, repeating the exercise 3 times between July ploughing and October drilling. It made a great seedbed with no blackgrass then a great crop afterwards.

I've also done this on an organic farm to clean up weeds & volunteers after a 3 year ryegrass ley.
 

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