Fencing Posts

Y Fan Wen

Member
Location
N W Snowdonia
sort of experimenting (bodging to my fans :rolleyes: ).........first thing i've learned is you must put wire up and strain it first because if you don't some of the posts will line up with the uprights and be very difficult to get wire in holders.....second is the 'sleeve' they sell is vital to stop snagging as the posts go in....i'm doing some just now......i put in 4inch creosote posts every 25 m or so......strain up the wire to that...i'm using 8/80/30 which i reckon is harder than mcveighs xtra fence 8/80/15 which is:love:.......anyway once that is done i put the post in the middle of a join.....sleeve over and use it like a driver til post stands up.....then push down the sleeve til it hits ground with teleporter (way easier than wood...i wouldn't use teleporter for wooden stakes)......take sleeve off....clip fence in....then just push post little further til bottom wire touches the ground:)

4m spacing but last lot i bought were £7/post....but if time is short it is worth it
 

jellybean

Member
Location
N.Devon
In the last 2 days I have replaced the posts on one of my fence lines. This fence had been up for 32 years, posts were tanalised from Calders and Grandidge. On other fence lines I have had a few posts go rotten but not many, this particular line was worse but had also had physical damage where a stag snapped a strainer post. This is a high pressure fence and can get some stick when getting stags in to the handling system.

IMG_3111.jpg


In the above photo you will see a plantation belonging to a neighbour which was planted when we came here 32 years ago. Last year some thinning was done and I had about 8 tons of larch poles which I peeled and pointed and they have dried for a year and I have creosoted them by total immersion for 10 days each batch. I know it is not as good as pressure/vacuum treatment but as I am 72 they are not needed to last for another 30 years. So grown within 800 metres of where they are being used, although about 2 miles by road to get them here.

IMG_3112.jpg

The netting has been re-used, Cyclone 17 line. So a low cost, very local resolution to my fencing.

IMG_3117.jpg


32 year old fencing in the background against the hedge. Hedges are important to me as all the deer are out wintered so a 7 foot high windbreak is great and I have plenty of trees for shade.
 

tepapa

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North Wales
In the last 2 days I have replaced the posts on one of my fence lines. This fence had been up for 32 years, posts were tanalised from Calders and Grandidge. On other fence lines I have had a few posts go rotten but not many, this particular line was worse but had also had physical damage where a stag snapped a strainer post. This is a high pressure fence and can get some stick when getting stags in to the handling system.

View attachment 979372

In the above photo you will see a plantation belonging to a neighbour which was planted when we came here 32 years ago. Last year some thinning was done and I had about 8 tons of larch poles which I peeled and pointed and they have dried for a year and I have creosoted them by total immersion for 10 days each batch. I know it is not as good as pressure/vacuum treatment but as I am 72 they are not needed to last for another 30 years. So grown within 800 metres of where they are being used, although about 2 miles by road to get them here.

View attachment 979373
The netting has been re-used, Cyclone 17 line. So a low cost, very local resolution to my fencing.

View attachment 979375

32 year old fencing in the background against the hedge. Hedges are important to me as all the deer are out wintered so a 7 foot high windbreak is great and I have plenty of trees for shade.
How long is the strut posts in the box?
 

jellybean

Member
Location
N.Devon
How long is the strut posts in the box?
Both posts are 11 foot and the top rail is 14 ft. Being the knowledgeable man you are you know the top rail should be twice as long as the height of the fence. Stakes are 10 foot 5 inch tops, my normal specification for deer farm fences

Should also have said that the timber is Larch which some say doesn't need treating but I did it anyway
 

tepapa

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North Wales
Both posts are 11 foot and the top rail is 14 ft. Being the knowledgeable man you are you know the top rail should be twice as long as the height of the fence. Stakes are 10 foot 5 inch tops, my normal specification for deer farm fences

Should also have said that the timber is Larch which some say doesn't need treating but I did it anyway
Looks good, it'll be the first deer fence box I've seen that's been done properly, top marks well 9/10😉.
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
Both posts are 11 foot and the top rail is 14 ft. Being the knowledgeable man you are you know the top rail should be twice as long as the height of the fence. Stakes are 10 foot 5 inch tops, my normal specification for deer farm fences

Should also have said that the timber is Larch which some say doesn't need treating but I did it anyway

Why should the rail be twice the height of the fence?

I normally use a normal 5’6” stake, about 2/3 of the way up, and with the ends cut at an angle. None have ever moved, apart from a couple where the Gripple on the diagonal wire has given out for some reason.
 

jellybean

Member
Location
N.Devon
Thanks for the high score @tepapa, Having fenced 70 properties for deer now I suppose I should be getting it somewhere near right:)

@neilo The theory is that the angle of the diagonal wire brace is important in that the angle shown in my pics is such that the tension in the fence is trying to pull the whole strainer assembly along through the ground. If the angle of the wire brace is more like 45 degrees it is exerting more of a lifting force on the main strainer post. With normal height stock fencing it would not be as important although I would still still use the same principle.
The consequences of deer fencing failing are such that it always pays to do the job properly. I have said on here before that the initial cost of a fence is irrelevant, it's the cost per year over the next 30 years that matters. We should all be looking for a 30 year life but admittedly that is much harder now if you buy the timber that most firms are offering. Do your homework!
 

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