H.Jackson
Member
- Location
- West Sussex
Thought we were sworn to secrecy about his "wild bird plots"[emoji1]Could you take a picture of you ploughing please, just for the record.
Thought we were sworn to secrecy about his "wild bird plots"[emoji1]Could you take a picture of you ploughing please, just for the record.
Thought we were sworn to secrecy about his "wild bird plots"[emoji1]
Nothing secret, just need to get more sorted on the spraying front. Also I promised him that the 750 would cope just as well on ploughed and ph land as it would in dd. Even note that JD call it the all till drill now!
Had been really pleased with how 750 goes in min till and plough based land. Drilled wheat, S barley and S beans in all situations on light and heavy land. Just need it level as drill moves no soil.Nothing secret, just need to get more sorted on the spraying front. Also I promised him that the 750 would cope just as well on ploughed and ph land as it would in dd. Even note that JD call it the all till drill now!
Had been really pleased with how 750 goes in min till and plough based land. Drilled wheat, S barley and S beans in all situations on light and heavy land. Just need it level as drill moves no soil.
Did you remember which way up the plough went?
You sound just like my son. I was accused of ploughing too fast and didn't know what I was doing! I had to point out that for over 25 years I'd ploughed over 1000 acres a year most years and on several up to 2000, most of them before he was born. It was a good job it had trash boards and not skimmers otherwise it wouldn't have gone more than a couple of feet without bunging up. It would have been easier to spray it off but it was a last minute job and without my own sprayer it made it complicated.
You sound just like my son. I was accused of ploughing too fast and didn't know what I was doing! I had to point out that for over 25 years I'd ploughed over 1000 acres a year most years and on several up to 2000, most of them before he was born. It was a good job it had trash boards and not skimmers otherwise it wouldn't have gone more than a couple of feet without bunging up. It would have been easier to spray it off but it was a last minute job and without my own sprayer it made it complicated.
If you were ploughing, pressing, leaving it, and then power-harrowing in front of the drill and then rolling in an old system, would you do all of those things (including the rolls but excluding the drill) well in advance of drilling. Then, at drilling time, just go in low disturbance and do nothing else? That was my vague plan on some bits for BG control. Just thinking how weather-proof that will be compared to leaving it roughly pressed.
If you are going to plough and ph I would do both well in advance of the drill. It would be very important on our soils to roll well, maybe even twice, to firm the ground back down so that if it did turn wet it didn't turn into a swamp. Leave until you get another flush of weeds, spray off and drill.
This was the video Jacob put up on Facebook of your ploughing:
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I'd say you could do with going up a gear.
Don't worry, I had always planned to the ploughing before the drilling!
Why exactly does rolling stop it turning into a swamp? I've never quite understood the exact reasoning. I remember we did maschio one field and the drill didn't get to the field before it rained. Had to wait a month before we could get back on it.
Think the answer is yes.If you were ploughing, pressing, leaving it, and then power-harrowing in front of the drill and then rolling in an old system, would you do all of those things (including the rolls but excluding the drill) well in advance of drilling. Then, at drilling time, just go in low disturbance and do nothing else? That was my vague plan on some bits for BG control. Just thinking how weather-proof that will be compared to leaving it roughly pressed.
That's what I think happens.The rolls stop it raining.[emoji3]
Rolling it puts structure back into the soil and stops it acting like a big sponge. Not so critical if you are on free draining soil but essential if you are on heavy clay.
The other thing I'd like to be able to do is to be able to sow rape / beans with just the back set of coulters. I know there have been threads on this but I can't seem to find them. Anyone remember the thread title?
Any chance of a pic of what that looks like in the hopper please.It's a simple job. 2-3 hours. A heat gun and some Accord hose joiners make it easy.
We also took the opportunity to put the hoses on in the correct order 1-18.
I just run the front gang at the shallow setting. I couldn't devise an easy way to lower the back separately.
It's a simple job. 2-3 hours. A heat gun and some Accord hose joiners make it easy.
We also took the opportunity to put the hoses on in the correct order 1-18.
I just run the front gang at the shallow setting. I couldn't devise an easy way to lower the back separately.
Any chance of a pic of what that looks like in the hopper please.
Thanks for that, it's reassuringly normal as you say, where are the joiners you spoke of then, I was worried that to many pipes would be to short and it would look a mess in the hopper.View attachment 338132
There's no real difference visually. Just the fact that the hoses are sorted in order rather than the mess they showed up in.
Uneven disc wear would be worth it for lower soil disturbance in a bad BG situation though?I tried to fid a way to only lower 1 gang and am sure its possible but came to the conclusion that uneven disc wear would be a problem when you went back to both gangs down