Ford 6610 dual power switch / solenoid

tancoman

Member
It's definitely not an AP cab. As far as can be seen there is no flick switch on the dashboard,It is an 1989 model.Would there be a flick switch on the dash as well as a floor foot switch. Also is there a difference between a SQ and a Q cab?
 

7610 super q

Never Forgotten
Honorary Member
89 will be SQ or AP. The switch will either be on the floor(SQ), or the dash(AP)( or bodged onto the gear lever ) but not both.

This is a SQ cab.....

IMG_0655.JPG
 
Last edited:

multi power

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
HI all. The dual power on the Ford 6610 is not working. It was working ok until one day on the road it dropped down by itself. At the same time the windscreen wipers stopped working. It had previously given trouble, in so far as it seemed to change itself without pressing the floor switch. Question for maybe MURSAL or JOHN 1594, or anyone else who may be in a position to help. Would a new switch help. This may be in the form of, as someone already mentioned, a Ford Transit gearnob with an overdrive switch or any other type switch. Help in the wiring of this new switch would be appreciated.Thanks
I suspect it's a power supply problem, seeing as dual power and wipers failed at same time
 

tancoman

Member
Yeah, it's an SQ cab alright. It may be a power supply problem, but I also think that the switch need to be changed. Could there be a wire shorting out by any chance. I haven't actually looked closely at it yet as I wanted to find out the possibilities before I went at it. Really it is a long while since it stopped working.
 

Mursal

Member
Here is the floor switch click

Guessing power (12volts) to the middle terminal with ignition in the ON position.
Powering the left terminal (right terminal off) until you press the button, then it toggles over and turns off the left terminal and turns on the right terminal.
See how you go .......
$_57.JPG
 

tancoman

Member
Hi Mursal. Sorry for being not up to speed. What way should I test the switch to see if that is the problem before I fit an alternative.Where should I bring my power source from.
 

Mursal

Member
If you get a working 12Volt bulb with wires attached (connect across the battery to see its actually working before testing the circuit with it).
If you connect one wire of the test bulb to clean steelwork (an earth).
With the ignition on the ON position.
You should be able to light the bulb by connecting it, to at least one of the wires on the switch.
I'm guessing it will be the middle terminal, but check all three.
If you cant get the bulb to light you have no power going to the switch.
But check it a few times, checking the bulbs working as you go ...........

If you have power, you should be able to turn on, one of the other terminals by working the switch.
Again testing with the bulb.

How does that sound?
TFF Ford switch 1.png
 
Last edited:

multi power

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
If you get a working 12Volt bulb with wires attached (connect across the battery to see it actually working before testing the circuit with it).
If you connect one wire of the test bulb to clean steelwork (an earth).
With the ignition on the ON position.
You should be able to light the bulb by connecting it, to at least one of the wires on the switch.
I'm guessing it will be the middle terminal, but check all three.
If you cant get the bulb to light you have no power going to the switch.
But check it a few times, checking the bulbs working as you go ...........

If you have power, you should be able to turn on, one of the other terminals by working the switch.
Again testing with the bulb.

How does that sound?
+1 for the bulb, or even a old car horn,
 

Mursal

Member
And just to follow on:
When you find the supply, just connect to each of the other wires in turn checking for a gear shift.
The fuse is just for safety, in case you hit the tin work by accident.

TFF Ford switch 2.png
 

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