genuine YL 's ???

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
I used to fiddle about and grind these spacers to make the bodies lay at the same angle but I soon realised that the first thing to do is to make sure that the flat on top of the frogs lay at the same angle. If you have problems it is worth checking that the frogs are a pair and not twisted. It is essential that these spacers can`t twist round so keep the rivets in with both spacers fitted correctly.
 

mike.l

Member
Location
london ontario
Hi have too busy to look on here for a little time now but first plowing match in ontario is tomorrow all ready to go dont think it will be a great success have not tried plow in ground so will be a lot of adjustments needed in the field Just reading this last page there is a lot of good info in the last few replies will try pictures and a report of how it went with new plow and tractor with wide tires. mike
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
I would clamp long straight edges to the legs and test for parallel in all directions. Then if all ok fit the frogs and test again with new shares on the frogs. Then set the pitch. Finally fit the boards, checking for parallel on both top and bottom of the board. You must make sure there is no step up, from share to board, a small step down is acceptable, but perfectly flush, and a close fit to the share is what you need to aim for.
When fitting the boards remember positions will have to be finalised when the plough is first put to work, that is the only way to arrive at the correct open furrow, which needs to only be wide enough for your tyre to fit.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
ok sirs
update
first question I guess is how long do my straight edges have to be , I ve been using to new lengths of 40x40x3 angle , 9 ft long I think , prob a full knocked in half , but I know along the full length they aint perfectly straight ,but 5 ft ish that I'm using is .
I knew the frame had a slight twist towards the back, prob 3 mm in the far corner were the second leg bolts on , sprit level shows this .but not a huge amount .
I think the two legs that are currently attached are a straight / plumb and , using a laser projector in a spirit lever thingy , clamped on to the outside of leg (were the frog will be) I'm basically happy with all measurements , not perfectly 10 ' but close ,and plumb , forward and back .

then bolt on frogs , everything goes wrong
width wrong , vertical line , were the land slide will be , no longer vertical all gone very pee'd :banghead::banghead::banghead:

not sure what to do next , prob try packing the between the two or get better frogs , it was a three furrow .
will update
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
Hi all been having thoughts about the westlake steel bearings i fitted , for the discs coulters.
Did someone say they really should be phosphour bronze ?
Softer than the spindle .
What is the process, were do i source bronze plz , i think i saw pb1 ? Same thing ?
Tia
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Hi all been having thoughts about the westlake steel bearings i fitted , for the discs coulters.
Did someone say they really should be phosphour bronze ?
Softer than the spindle .
What is the process, were do i source bronze plz , i think i saw pb1 ? Same thing ?
Tia
Standard bearings are steel though I use bronze. Can’t remember where I got them but plenty of suppliers on the net.
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Original bearings were white metal lined steel bushes. Cheapie modern things are steel. I bored mine out, and refaced the spindle, internet provided suitable phosphor bronze tube, which I machined to size and fitted. If you go down this way, the bronze does need regular greasing, or it will eat the spindle!
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
From memory the spindle has 1/2 mm taper ,wear. And I hot riveted the discs on . So I'll have to decide wether I machine spindle first ?
For me to turn I'd have to remove disc
So make Bushings about 10 mm thick ?
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Not a good idea to hot rivet discs. Can cause.the disc to warp. Countersunk screws are best.
Whichever way you choose to go with the bearings, there is no substitute for adequate use of a grease gun. For the bit you will use them then there will be little difference in performance between steel and phosphor bronze. Get yourself one of these for your grease gun. Makes things a lot easier.

77DC8651-A013-49BB-A06A-0F2EE9F4AEF0.jpeg

Possibly you would be better off to pay more attention to the shank and socket at the bottom that the disc arm bolts to. Play here can cause you far more problems.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
Not too much play in the disc bearing now , just people telling me it shouldn't have be steel.
Ive plenty of play between end of crank and socket , not decided how to adress that yet .
Cut end of crank off , weld new stub on ? I cant see how id turn the end of crank to machine it , , mount socket in 4 jaw to machine , or a milling machine job ? I don't have a mill .
I have the horrid two eye bolt clamp , do i have to bite bullet and west lake it ? For the 1 eye bolt clamp
 
Not too much play in the disc bearing now , just people telling me it shouldn't have be steel.
Ive plenty of play between end of crank and socket , not decided how to adress that yet .
Cut end of crank off , weld new stub on ? I cant see how id turn the end of crank to machine it , , mount socket in 4 jaw to machine , or a milling machine job ? I don't have a mill .
I have the horrid two eye bolt clamp , do i have to bite bullet and west lake it ? For the 1 eye bolt clamp
steel on steel will be fine for what your going to do, and you will keep it well greased so it will be ok,
as for the other bit, put mount the swivel in 4 jaw chuck, skim out to 1, 1/4 no more as it will be weak after that,
chop bottom off at bend, weld on 7" long bit of 1,1/4 bright bar, with no grove, just leave it as is
lift disc stem up to the near the top close to clamp,
make a collar for top on stem, fit collar to stop stem dropping when adjusting set,
dont bother with single bolt clamp,
now skim plough clamp collar to fit stem, or make a new one, but new needs the stops,
now fit disc on stem, with collar in adjust the height as needed and lock collar,
you will now have 3" on travel on bottom of stem up and down to set the disc as needed without slacking the top, to move the disc up or down and this will not move the set on disc at all
 

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94: Advice around establishing herbal leys

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94: Advice around establishing herbal leys

Written by AHDB

In this episode, Danny Fanning, a Masters student from University College Dublin spent a two month placement at AHDB looking at Herbal Leys. During this time he spoke to Ian Wilkinson of Costwolds seeds about his farming practices and how he manages his herbal lays.

* Please note this episode was filmed outside, so in parts it can be...
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