genuine YL 's ???

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
hi
when I bought my plough ,, ts 59 j it was three furrow
I've reduced it to 2 . it was rough / rusty condition
on the third un used very rusty body I've noticed on the back S677 , what does that mean ?

no other markings on them that I can find
the front bolt hole has a small cast piece behind held with two small bolts / pins which I have riveted .
only real wear is on the vertical slope , basically no wear on the back edges .

my problem being the plough seems to be pairing , or I'm driving it wrong , I'm trying to rule things out .
1 furrow bigger / different .
I've never felt that the twist on the two looks exactly the same, but cant overlap them now ive riveted the thing on the back .
hope this makes some sense :scratchhead::scratchhead:
I'm using points sold by west lake , they honestly don't look like a pair either , sold new.44's. no markings.
obviously I can photo things . if it helps.

one set the bolts always line up perfect / others always a struggle
plough coming to a nice shine now , but still got pits , might always have ??

words of wisdom please
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Your boards are non genuine. The approved process for setting up the bodies is as follows:- Measure from the front of each board around the top edge to a point behind the leg (so than you can take a line behind the leg from front to back board) and make a mark with a grinder(for non genuine boards a hacksaw might do!). Measure from this mark and make another mark about 18" further along to the rear. Do exactly the same for both boards. Now measure from the rear landside to the bottom of the rear board at its greatest distance and set this at about 101/2" to 11" by pulling in with the rear stay then tighten the bolt in the front stay adjustment. Measure from the front mark on the rear board to the front mark on the front board then do the same on the rearward marks. If the boards are parallel these measurements should be the same. If not, adjust the stays on the FRONT board.
Now take a long spirit level and set the plough level, both front to rear and across, by adjusting the top link and depth rod. Now lay the spirit level across from one board to the other across the rearward marks. These should also be level. Adjust by packing the front stay clamp
P1010655.JPG
P1010657.JPG
P1010659.JPG
P1010655.JPG P1010657.JPG P1010659.JPG with washers. If you can obtain an inclinometer (on ebay) you can measure the slope on any given point on the back or front of your boards, comparing one with another. If your boards and frogs are good the angle of incline should be the same within about 2 degrees. Small adjustments can be made by packing under the front of the board or grinding the cast spacer under the board but don`t go too far with this without considering the trueness of the frogs.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
Thanks for that
I've took some photos

Upload when I get chance
Then back to the work shop me think s

That numbers for copy boards then. ?
Does that matter other than value
?
Thanks again sirs
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Those numbers mean something to someone, perhaps Spaldings or Pan Anglia. There was a set on ebay recently I think and though some copy boards may be better than others most people agree that genuine ones plough better, have less friction and don`t stick so much. The soil must pass over the board at consistent speed in order to minimise irregular lumps and furrow patterns.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
I think In the past . with various ploughs I've struggle d far to much with bodies not clean. Shiny enough.
It's acres un acres to clean them eh .
And gritty enough soil
In all honesty none of my ploughs have the proper mirror finish, but I've generally bought them in rough condition.

Like mixing concrete with a mucked up shovel rather than a clean one .??
I keep my main shovel spotless.
A contractor mate of mine talks about rough builders with concrete reinforced shovels . tells a lot about the builder.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
I took more photos

http://s1098.photobucket.com/user/thetomlad/library/RANSOMES TS 59 J
level floor , plough levelled both ways .
surprising gap under the short landslide ?
it will be worn but its not razor sharp underneath.
the swear / soil line is always on the second body , soil not rubbing on it same as the front furrow , I don't THINK , but could be wrong its related to the skim ????
I will go thru steps above the check parallel when I get chance , thank you for the detailed instructions mate .
 

Roy Stokes

Member
Location
East Shropshire
S6 numbers were a Spaldings replacement for genuine's back in the 70's and early 80's, they are regarded by myself as better quality than the only available replacements of today, I ran my TCN plough before it was stolen on S672'S and they were as good as originals
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
ok
update
both bodies are parallel , there were about right before , but I hadn't scratched the four marks for measuring , I have now .
still pairing ,
a few observation's to confuse issues
the second furrow doesn't turn as well as the first , the first furrow seems to be pushed to far over so makes the gap's between furrows seem un even OR has the second furrow on previous run not been pushed far enough ?
the plough was semi dismantled when I bought it on freebay years ago. ( the guy was gonna make a match plough like me , he bought one done instead )
I didn't mark the 3 sets of mould board parts when I stripped them to take 2 sets to be sandblasted .prob all mixed up.
the two frogs fitted are not the same casting numbers (never noticed till recently ) the third one ive never used is same number as number one on my plough .numbers rusting so its a best guess.
when assembling the front body on my plough the slotted adjusting bolt ,behind the body wouldn't line up ? I cut the tab and re welded.
the second body set , odd number frog , all lined up perfect , the furrow I don't think flips over as well as the front one.
so now I'm confused both bodies removed , poss. try fitting the rusty frog on to second leg next
weathers starting to turn , so don't know if it'll be fit in the field for a while , there a semi ploughed field from the last plough match close to me , it will be spuds next year , and a friendly farmer (my neighbour ) so a big practice field .
best regards tom
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
It may sound obvious but is the front furrow ploughing the same width as the back ( is your cross shaft in the correct position) ? Are your discs set to cut the same width ? Apart from obvious depth discrepancies the only other things I can think of are odd boards or twisted frogs. I will send some more photos .
Realigning the slotted tag on the stay is something I only ever did once and that was for non genuine boards but on reflection that may have been an issue with the frog. Bent legs are also more common than you think.
 

Tonym

Member
Location
Shropshire
When measuring across your mold boards at the marks you made also check the distance between the legs at a fixed position and also the point to point distance with a new set of points. These distances should all be the same. Also check the pitch between new points and the underside of the beam. If you can get hold of a laser spirit level place it on each landsides in turn pointing forwards and then to the rear marking the dots on a wall or sheet of plywood or something similar. The dots should be the same distance apart if the bodies are parallel. Also check that the legs are upright with a spirit level. With all this data you should be able to find if you have a twisted leg or frog.
I had a similar problem in that you could line up the mold boards but the pitch was out or you could get the pitch right but the top of the mold boards would not line up. Turned out to be a bent frog although you could not tell looking at it.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
if I stack the 3 bodies together , should they be a perfect fit ? or will they never be exactly the same ?
to stack the 3 I'd have to remove the 2 cast bits I hot riveted on , well remove 1 I guess ,
I couldn't get rivets exact same diameter , there is a slight gap behind one cast piece only 1 mm ish?
how do people attach it to the body ? if I did it again I don't think id bother riveting , I think 2 pins would be better so the main plough bolt nips it all together .
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
I attach a photo of an inclinometer with a magnetic base. By accurately placing this on the boards in different places you can check the similarity or otherwise of the incline on the boards. These cost about £3-4 on ebay
 

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