General-Lee
Member
- Location
- Devon
That a weight block in front the GLS? We’ve one and never struggled to get it in the ground, well apart from some real hard boney tramlines.
Grass subsoiler
- Thread starter Keep_flying
- Start date
Grassman247
Member
Yes it’s a concrete block, they did a run with it and without, tyre slip without was rediculous, silly trying to improve the soil below and destroying the top because it won’t grip
- Location
- Snodland kent
Anyone tried or using a Bullock Tillage Sub disc? Look competitively priced
Digester Man
Member
Tried Erth, Soilmate and Sumo... bought the Sumo. Very pleased with it
- Location
- Acton Scott, South Shropshire
The two most essential pieces of kit for the correct performance of a grassland subsoiler are a spade and an operator who understands what they are trying to do.
You need to put a spade in before you start to find out what depth the pan is at or more importantly whether a pan exists. No point running at 12” deep if the pan is at 6” - just burning diesel for fun and ripping up the turf trying pull the legs way deeper than needed.
All very well suggesting a flat lift is the ideal machine but not much good if you want to mow the ground the next year? I want a low disturbance subsoiler- I don’t need to see the surface disturbed to find out if the machine is working- I have a spade for that . Dig a series of holes to see if the soil is fracturing - if the conditions are right the fracturing will occur with a simple leg - no great wide wings required. If conditions are right sward will go back down as neatly as it was before. We run an erth and I think the legs in a line leave a far better finish when conditions are right. If conditions are very dry then you can reduce slabbing by dropping from 4 to 3 legs but essentiall to make sure the fracturing is still occurring across the full width.
I am a big believer in only subsoiling in the autumn to allow the grass roots to regenerate and grow into the fractures without the soil being recompacted - it will recompact very easily if there is stock and machinery going over it - leaving it over winter allows it to settle and grass recover ready for spring.
You need to put a spade in before you start to find out what depth the pan is at or more importantly whether a pan exists. No point running at 12” deep if the pan is at 6” - just burning diesel for fun and ripping up the turf trying pull the legs way deeper than needed.
All very well suggesting a flat lift is the ideal machine but not much good if you want to mow the ground the next year? I want a low disturbance subsoiler- I don’t need to see the surface disturbed to find out if the machine is working- I have a spade for that . Dig a series of holes to see if the soil is fracturing - if the conditions are right the fracturing will occur with a simple leg - no great wide wings required. If conditions are right sward will go back down as neatly as it was before. We run an erth and I think the legs in a line leave a far better finish when conditions are right. If conditions are very dry then you can reduce slabbing by dropping from 4 to 3 legs but essentiall to make sure the fracturing is still occurring across the full width.
I am a big believer in only subsoiling in the autumn to allow the grass roots to regenerate and grow into the fractures without the soil being recompacted - it will recompact very easily if there is stock and machinery going over it - leaving it over winter allows it to settle and grass recover ready for spring.
Father ted
Member
- Location
- Herefordshire
Rust
Member
- Location
- Hertfordshire
How come the points don't fall off when he reversed and lifted [emoji848]
- Location
- Hampshire
Just chuck some deep rooting herbs / lucerne in your mixtures, lot cheaper than diesel / metal. I've had my Flatlift in the nettles for years, thinking about it I'd better put it on classifieds!
- Location
- Limousin, France
Don't the new version s have a roll pin to hold them on.
Nick Adams
Member
- Location
- Ashbourne, Derbyshire
And no shins fitted to protect the legs. I’ve a 2m Grassland Shakearator available if anyone’s looking.
Nick Adams
Member
- Location
- Ashbourne, Derbyshire
I’ve a 2m Grassland Shakearator available if anyone’s looking.
organicguy
Member
- Location
- North East of the south west
Ours do!
- Location
- Limousin, France
I could do it every year but once every 2/3 yes is normal for me.
I've done perm. grass and fields sprayed off ready for DDing.
Dry is best eg autumn but springtime if dry is possible.
Done some for neighbour at 75 euro/ hectare.
Pictures from France page 19 post 373.
How many years do your grass stay before change of crop? Mine usually 3 years. Yield is too low after that, so cheaper to drill new somewhere else.
Grassman247
Member
My leys are on a 8 year rotation so do them then, will do other fields if there’s a problem
- Location
- Limousin, France
Temporary grass eg Italian ryegrass is done before drilling and so is cereals so between 15/20 hectares a yr plus 10 h perm grass approx.
So at the end of crop before new is put in?
If, then the saving-grass approach is not really necessary?
I thought it was to revitalize the grass to get a few more years from it with good growth?