M-J-G
Member
That's OK if you're only doing a few hundred acres a year, if you're doing a lot you wear the hooks off and you're changing tines.The easiest way to clean the ground is hooked tines
That's why I got rid of our old Lely
That's OK if you're only doing a few hundred acres a year, if you're doing a lot you wear the hooks off and you're changing tines.The easiest way to clean the ground is hooked tines
Surely you'd be changing any type of tine if you're doing that much work ?That's OK if you're only doing a few hundred acres a year, if you're doing a lot you wear the hooks off and you're changing tines.
That's why I got rid of our old Lely
Not as often, once the hook wears off the purpose is defeated, plus the last but usually breaks off which is a bit of a nuisance if tedding grass that getting lifted by a forager.Surely you'd be changing any type of tine if you're doing that much work ?
Not so I’m afraid. There are tedders that tend to walk and some that lump more than others. There are some that can handle really heavy wet crop and others that will overload and the slip clutch will go or tines will break in the same crop. Not sure which is ‘best’ because I’ve only experienced half the brands and some brands have different rotor sizes and ‘farmer’ and ‘contractor’ duty machines in their range.IMO there’s no bad tedders. It’s mostly down to the operator
Not necessary at all in my experienceMake sure, as a basic requirement, that the machine you choose matches your mower’s cutting or swath width so that any swath left by the mower, whether narrow or spread, run down the centre, between every tine-wheel of the tedder.
Hi totally agree with you Krone is by far the best, I have used all makes over the years, Krone does a much better job & is far better built ,will last twice as long as most other breeds.Good to hear Claas have at last heard their customers' complaints. It'll be long time since they first designed their wrapping rotors
This summer past was my first with the krone 900, so I'm still learning. At first I drove it like my old Claas, as the grass dried, forward speed increased slightly...... Yes indeed, the krone chucked it in rows
I discovered that I was being far too gentle. As the grass dried nearer hay, the krone rotor speed needed increased to near 500rpm, up from around 350 when it was fresh mown
It was the forward speed, though, that was the biggest revelation. First pass through was 3 to 5kph, same as the claas predecessor, but to spread evenly when dry, I was hitting 10kph and more in lighter crops. The grass was turned beautifully without rows, but at a rate I'd never thought possible with a tedder
I had begun experimenting with the very easily altered rotor angle towards the end of the summer. Flatter angle as the grass dried did improve the spread without needing to spin the rotors so fast, however I'd like to experiment more next year when there's a bit more sunshine and less threat of rain
Hope your new Claas does as well for you as my old one did for me. Mine was near 20 year old when it left, and needed two bearings, a seal, and one replacement tine in all the years it was here. Whatever the design flaws were, that's not bad!
not neccesary, the 2nd and subsequent passes arnt fussyNot so I’m afraid. There are tedders that tend to walk and some that lump more than others. There are some that can handle really heavy wet crop and others that will overload and the slip clutch will go or tines will break in the same crop. Not sure which is ‘best’ because I’ve only experienced half the brands and some brands have different rotor sizes and ‘farmer’ and ‘contractor’ duty machines in their range.
Make sure, as a basic requirement, that the machine you choose matches your mower’s cutting or swath width so that any swath left by the mower, whether narrow or spread, run down the centre, between every tine-wheel of the tedder.
Not so I’m afraid. There are tedders that tend to walk and some that lump more than others. There are some that can handle really heavy wet crop and others that will overload and the slip clutch will go or tines will break in the same crop. Not sure which is ‘best’ because I’ve only experienced half the brands and some brands have different rotor sizes and ‘farmer’ and ‘contractor’ duty machines in their range.
Make sure, as a basic requirement, that the machine you choose matches your mower’s cutting or swath width so that any swath left by the mower, whether narrow or spread, run down the centre, between every tine-wheel of the tedder.
Aye, need to agree with @davidroberts30 about the width not needing to exactly match the mower for multiple passes (and be as wide as you can afford, which he says earlier)not neccesary, the 2nd and subsequent passes arnt fussy
I think i'd still match to mower widths. on my FC284, an 8M takes 3 mower swaths quite happily with it spreading almost as wide as will go (full spreading width would end up with cut grass on the uncut grass in a thick crop). If you had a 3M mower you'd probably want to get the 10 rotor, or just set it to swath a bit narrower. My old tedder would not quite take 2 rows, and you had to do 3 passes to ted 5 rows. Right pain, have no interest in going back to that.Aye, need to agree with @davidroberts30 about the width not needing to exactly match the mower for multiple passes (and be as wide as you can afford, which he says earlier)
However, I've a side mower with spreader vanes, and there's only enough ground left bare of cut stuff to see the edge of the standing grass. Might be different if you're only doing a single ted following a set of triples before the contractor rams it into a pit at 1000mph?
I've a krone 320 mower, so must admit the 900 tedder matches it pretty much prefectly, but I've also become addicted to agopengps for lightbar guidance. Accuracy is now measured in cm instead of feetI think i'd still match to mower widths. on my FC284, an 8M takes 3 mower swaths quite happily with it spreading almost as wide as will go (full spreading width would end up with cut grass on the uncut grass in a thick crop). If you had a 3M mower you'd probably want to get the 10 rotor, or just set it to swath a bit narrower. My old tedder would not quite take 2 rows, and you had to do 3 passes to ted 5 rows. Right pain, have no interest in going back to that.
Never tried my agopengps for mowing or teddingI've a krone 320 mower, so must admit the 900 tedder matches it pretty much prefectly, but I've also become addicted to agopengps for lightbar guidance. Accuracy is now measured in cm instead of feet
Don'tNever tried my agopengps for mowing or tedding
How have you got that set up? Doesnt look like you've been round the field and mapped out the boundries?Don't
Addiction is a slippery slope
I've a lightbar with roll angle and 2cm RTK correction (when I've mobile reception)
Even used it on the plough where the neighbours might see if the fur wasn't straight
View attachment 1153268
Don't have autosteer installed, just use it as a lightbarHow have you got that set up? Doesnt look like you've been round the field and mapped out the boundries?
I was rtk hedgecuttingDon't
Addiction is a slippery slope
I've a lightbar with roll angle and 2cm RTK correction (when I've mobile reception)
Even used it on the plough where the neighbours might see if the fur wasn't straight
View attachment 1153268
I was rtk hedgecutting