how best to fit 3 roller doors side by side in a building

[dannewhouse]

we a re looking at a new building for someone 30ft wide 45ft long
along the 45ft we want 3 roller shutter doors (1 per 15ft bay) but how best to do it?
I have added a drawing

option 1, a piece of angle on the back of the column, then a piece of box to build inwards then the track bolts to that (you could possibly do it with unequal angle?) you need to build in as they need 75mm each end for bearing/drive of coil.
adv slightly wider door
disadv building needs to be taller so "coil" can be mounted below gusset

option 2, I think it looks a bit poorer but might actually be less work. weld a piece of flat into column web to build in enough so that the motor + bearing fit between the column / rafters drawing probably isn't quite enough
adv building only needs to be door opening + 370mm to top of eaves beam so depth of rafter + gusset lower
disadv door is a few inches narrower but does this matter on a 14ft wide door?

option 3 I'm open to better ideas?!

 

[dannewhouse]

building is yet to be ordered these bits just need finalising
building is to be profile sheet cladding all round so height will cost a bit due to all extra cladding? even if we are talking around 400mm?

 

[Forever Fendt]

building is yet to be ordered these bits just need finalising
building is to be profile sheet cladding all round so height will cost a bit due to all extra cladding? even if we are talking around 400mm?

use a 203x203 on the columns at the elevation you want the doors and no need to do anything ,or weld a 250 wide flat on a 254x146 for a bit more space and turn the angles the opp way you have drawn them and it will work, insist on a 75x50 x6 RSA on the side runners and not a pressed 3mm angle and if an exposed area have 100mm windlock guides with cast end caps and steel rivets so it don't blow in,don't buy on price quite a lot of variables with doors

 

[dannewhouse]

use a 203x203 on the columns at the elevation you want the doors and no need to do anything ,or weld a 250 wide flat on a 254x146 for a bit more space and turn the angles the opp way you have drawn them and it will work, insist on a 75x50 x6 RSA on the side runners and not a pressed 3mm angle and if an exposed area have 100mm windlock guides with cast end caps and steel rivets so it don't blow in,don't buy on price quite a lot of variables with doors

already on that with the doors 22 guage and £100 for 100mm windlocks. I was thinking it would be better in "proper" angle rather than the folded tin as you say.
never thought of using column section, will that fudge my gable ends though for sheeting?
any benefit of angles the opp way or just to reduce total width so they stay inside rafters?
worked a rough guestimate in just profile sheeting for 400mm higher and it was only £250

if we were welding a flat on would you do it at the back or centre of the column? back seems stronger to me? but could have door forewords? header in U section? with appropriate to how far in I put the door?

 

[dannewhouse]

do I dare have the angle welded onto the flat onto the columns and send for galvanizing?

I'm sure the doors have a couple of mm for error? not 1/2 inches though really! should get columns accurate enough?

bolts could be undone? as at least the head of the bolt has to be outside?

 

[Forever Fendt]

[How about move the centre line of the shed towards the door elevation so shorter rafters and give the increase in height thats required for the doors without making the whole shed higherQUOTE="dannewhouse, post: 4769942, member: 43882"]already on that with the doors 22 guage and £100 for 100mm windlocks. I was thinking it would be better in "proper" angle rather than the folded tin as you say.
never thought of using column section, will that fudge my gable ends though for sheeting?
any benefit of angles the opp way or just to reduce total width so they stay inside rafters?
worked a rough guestimate in just profile sheeting for 400mm higher and it was only £250

if we were welding a flat on would you do it at the back or centre of the column? back seems stronger to me? but could have door forewords? header in U section? with appropriate to how far in I put the door?[/QUOTE]

 

[Forever Fendt]

[How about move the centre line of the shed towards the door elevation so shorter rafters and give the increase in height thats required for the doors without making the whole shed higherQUOTE="dannewhouse, post: 4769942, member: 43882"]already on that with the doors 22 guage and £100 for 100mm windlocks. I was thinking it would be better in "proper" angle rather than the folded tin as you say.
never thought of using column section, will that fudge my gable ends though for sheeting?
any benefit of angles the opp way or just to reduce total width so they stay inside rafters?
worked a rough guestimate in just profile sheeting for 400mm higher and it was only £250

if we were welding a flat on would you do it at the back or centre of the column? back seems stronger to me? but could have door forewords? header in U section? with appropriate to how far in I put the door?

[/QUOTE]
Put the flat on the back,If you went insulated panels doors you could get them on a slim upright and have them follow the roof pitch and would be fine chain operated so no cost of wiring shutters and don't rattle in wind but doors would be a bit more £

 

[dannewhouse]

probably stick with standard doors as its only for storage, heat is a luxury!
probably work out dear having building "bespoke" with rafter lengths compared to extra height but I know it could be done.
would you dare have the angles welded onto the building before galv? just to avoid bolts or just accept that's the way to do it?

 

[Forever Fendt]

probably stick with standard doors as its only for storage, heat is a luxury!
probably work out dear having building "bespoke" with rafter lengths compared to extra height but I know it could be done.
would you dare have the angles welded onto the building before galv? just to avoid bolts or just accept that's the way to do it?

i would not weld the angles on,you will need to speak to your door people about this before fabricating making sure you all have same hymn sheet

 

[dannewhouse]

there exactly as you described bolting angle on as per rh picture except other way around (and flat welded on back of steelwork) its just by bolting on afterwards if column is marginally off verticle you can put angle bang on verticle

will be for us to fit it seems deer for them to do it considering there's 3 and a personnel and ive fitted a couple and there not that hard to do.

 

[Forever Fendt]

We don't fit any now just get them fitted as they have a different set up with the HSE stuff for the braked motor and its a bit more complicated with the limit switches so get them fitted and some warranty

 

[dannewhouse]

We don't fit any now just get them fitted as they have a different set up with the HSE stuff for the braked motor and its a bit more complicated with the limit switches so get them fitted and some warranty

roughly how much would you expect fitting to be? I'm sure the guy said £350 per door which is like £1050 the 3 for probably 2 men a day?

 

[Forever Fendt]

roughly how much would you expect fitting to be? I'm sure the guy said £350 per door which is like £1050 the 3 for probably 2 men a day?

I would think the 350 ok if it was my job, i don't think there is any way that 3 could be fitted in a day properly and commissioned, i would sooner pay that and not have them walk away if there is any issues with it