How thin to lay concrete

[Headless chicken]

as some may know were right in the middle of a bit of renovation work but due to poor milk price, bad wind speed and probate were up against it so need to save some money.

So the question is how thin is too thin as a scrape passage between two beds? Would never carry a mixer wagon for example. Heaviest thing would be a telehandler.

Or how thin could we lay it and the relay extra next year on top without having to chip it up and start again?

 

[Stuckingeneva]

6", nothing less, you'll regret it in a couple years otherwise

 

[Pan mixer]

6", nothing less, you'll regret it in a couple years otherwise

And put some mesh in it - terribly expensive, laying thin concrete in the medium term.

 

[multi power]

And remember to put some cement in the mixer

 

[TomB]

I think if the base below is good and firm you would get away with 4", have recently dug up some old stuff that was fine and not too deep. Personally I would do 6" and not worry about it.

 

[RWG Contracts]

as some may know were right in the middle of a bit of renovation work but due to poor milk price, bad wind speed and probate were up against it so need to save some money.

So the question is how thin is too thin as a scrape passage between two beds? Would never carry a mixer wagon for example. Heaviest thing would be a telehandler.

Or how thin could we lay it and the relay extra next year on top without having to chip it up and start again?

If you can get your sub base absolutely solid, so you drive telehandler over it with a full bucket of some and it doesn't leave a mark then you'll get away with 4", but no thinner, other wise 6" and cut costs elsewhere. Concrete is the most expensive mistake you can make if it breaks

 

[Headless chicken]

If you can get your sub base absolutely solid, so you drive telehandler over it with a full bucket of some and it doesn't leave a mark then you'll get away with 4", but no thinner, other wise 6" and cut costs elsewhere. Concrete is the most expensive mistake you can make if it breaks

I did the maths after posting this thread up. With what I need to lay right now to make this work it's basically about £1500 worth of difference. It's a bloody no brainer

 

[Steevo]

I did the maths after posting this thread up. With what I need to lay right now to make this work it's basically about £1500 worth of difference. It's a bloody no brainer

Especially given the costs involved are a lot more than just the concrete. There can be plenty of cost in the preparation before the first lorry turns up, let alone the labour to lay/finish it.

 

[mo!]

We've done some in finishing sheds at 4", but the floor has been down for a century so pretty solid. 6" is better.

 

[Gone Shooting]

5 inches ?

 

[Badshot]

I did the maths after posting this thread up. With what I need to lay right now to make this work it's basically about £1500 worth of difference. It's a bloody no brainer

Yep, stretch yourself a little now, or spend double again in a few years.

 

[Rob Graham]

5" 45N with mesh here as chickenhouse floors on well compacted base and it takes some hammering. Consider dowelling bars into the cubicle concrete (if sufficient depth only) and placing mesh on the bars

 

[Tarw Coch]

4" on cubicle shed floor here for the last 20 odd years and still looks as good as new, I'm sure it will last for as long as I need it to.
The base was well compacted, we done the job ourselves with a bit of help. I've actually got more faith in that than a newer shed at 6" where the builder just tracked the stone down with a 3.5 ton mini and slapped the concrete down.

 

[holywell farmer]

as some may know were right in the middle of a bit of renovation work but due to poor milk price, bad wind speed and probate were up against it so need to save some money.

So the question is how thin is too thin as a scrape passage between two beds? Would never carry a mixer wagon for example. Heaviest thing would be a telehandler.

Or how thin could we lay it and the relay extra next year on top without having to chip it up and start again?

Nothing bests nice level surface that's has steel beneath it, get it. Concreted and steeled up,

 

[Northeastfarmer]

Never ever lay more than 4" in the sheds....always plenty of stone underneath

 

[Doing it for the kids]

all well and good saying how you just lifted concrete that was 4 inch but I reckon the stuff they put down 20 yrs back is much better than what goes down now.

6 plus mesh everywhere here. 8 on main farm road

 

[timmyboy]

You could be laying 4" , 5" , and 6" if you are not too good with a constant depth between the shutters. Just a little more time and effort could soon afford a grand off the bill ! Fibres to the mix is a cheaper option than steel and make a lot of difference to the strength too. iirc fibres were around £10 a cube when I was batching concrete a few years back......just a thought.
P.s. If you do only put down 4" and use mesh be sure to put it deep enough. The scaper will wear the surface away and expose the steel. Been there,done that, had the punctures, and had time to burn the teeshirt

 

[Northeastfarmer]

I don't think concrete is as good as it used to be years ago either

 

[phillipe]

I don't think concrete is as good as it used to be years ago either

its not the concrete its the cement more blown flyash

 

[MOG]

Just for giggles. Just read this thread on a cycling forum....


Concrete slab, will I need mesh?

It's for a wooden summer house (2m x 2.5m).
Slab will be 185mm thick.
Feels wrong not to put mesh in (A393 Anyone?) but it'll be a right pain getting 1 sheet then cutting it to size.