Hydraulic control valve

[Boohoo]

I need to convert the independent rotor lift on a rake from manual (hydraulic pipes in cab with a lever operated valve) to electric control. Am I right in thinking I need a 3 position solenoid valve like this?
https://www.flowfitonline.com/hydra...p-3-ng6-3-position-solenoid-valve-12-v-dc-3c9
Diagram from the technical data for the valve.

Lift rams on the rake are single acting so blank off T, with no power going to the valve both sides lift and lower together, power to either side via a on/off/on flick switch should allow independent rotor lift and lower shouldn't it?

 

[Andrew]

I need to convert the independent rotor lift on a rake from manual (hydraulic pipes in cab with a lever operated valve) to electric control. Am I right in thinking I need a 3 position solenoid valve like this?
https://www.flowfitonline.com/hydra...p-3-ng6-3-position-solenoid-valve-12-v-dc-3c9
Diagram from the technical data for the valve.
View attachment 795446
Lift rams on the rake are single acting so blank off T, with no power going to the valve both sides lift and lower together, power to either side via a on/off/on flick switch should allow independent rotor lift and lower shouldn't it?

Surely it would be cheaper to fit a double blocking valve to each cylinder rather than a cetop block and valve?

 

[Andrew]

Something like this on each cylinder. Get 2x normally open ones. Then just send power to it and that cylinder will switch off - allowing the other to work on its own.

https://www.flowfitonline.com/hydra...pe-solenoid-valve-normally-open-12-vdc-14-bsp

Edit: Apparently it may not be cheaper....... but possibly easier to mount, although I think your solution would work.

 

[Boohoo]

Something like this on each cylinder. Get 2x normally open ones. Then just send power to it and that cylinder will switch off - allowing the other to work on its own.

https://www.flowfitonline.com/hydra...pe-solenoid-valve-normally-open-12-vdc-14-bsp

Edit: Apparently it may not be cheaper....... but possibly easier to mount, although I think your solution would work.

Thank you, I hadn't thought of blocking the flow that way. It's nearly twice the price but still not big money compared to the value of the new rake.

 

[cosmagedon]

If I've read it right your best doing what we've done on our twin rotors and just run a hose from each side back to the tractor and use a separate spool valve for each side. Simple and cheap or am I missing something?

 

[Boohoo]

If I've read it right your best doing what we've done on our twin rotors and just run a hose from each side back to the tractor and use a separate spool valve for each side. Simple and cheap or am I missing something?

It is simple and cheap but it's not the most convenient or productive set up.

 

[James]

I need to convert the independent rotor lift on a rake from manual (hydraulic pipes in cab with a lever operated valve) to electric control. Am I right in thinking I need a 3 position solenoid valve like this?
https://www.flowfitonline.com/hydra...p-3-ng6-3-position-solenoid-valve-12-v-dc-3c9
Diagram from the technical data for the valve.
View attachment 795446
Lift rams on the rake are single acting so blank off T, with no power going to the valve both sides lift and lower together, power to either side via a on/off/on flick switch should allow independent rotor lift and lower shouldn't it?

Never thought of doing this quite fancy it. Would certainly be better than current situation. You'll need to keep us posted with pictures.

 

[Andrew]

It is simple and cheap but it's not the most convenient or productive set up.

Depends how good the HMS is on your tractor?

 

[Boohoo]

Depends how good the HMS is on your tractor?

2 spool valve leavers that are a bit far apart to use with 1 hand all day every day!

 

[tinman]

the valve you have put in the op would work but i wouldn't be inclined to blank off T, your going to be using one of a pair on the spool valve of the tractor so another pipe from T isnt going to take anything more up.
reason im saying not to blank off T is if you do, you would loose the ability to float the opposite side your lifting, may not be a big thing but if you come to a dip in the field it cant technically float as youve blocked the oils path, same goes for the other side when your lifting it you've blocked the other arm from floating.
id use two pipes, a flow and a return and put a check valve on the T at the tractor end of the hose so you cant connect it the wrong way round, use coloured cable ties on the hose and the spool to make it easier to connect.

 

[Ali_Maxxum]

This is almost identical to something I am after.

Got a rake coming and for now I will have the individual rotor left in 2 separate spools. Not sure I will want to do that forever due to ease of use, so, I'm thinking of putting in an electronic control of some sorts, would ask the dealer but I could imagine them wanting a further small fortune.

What I was thinking was you have your single pipe from the tractor which would go to a block with 2 out lets, both of which would be electronically controlled via a switch or buttons?

Does anyone have any insight as to the right way to go about this?

https://www.approvedhydraulics.co.uk/collections/cetop-3/products/hp-4-dwg-6-h Assume I need something like this?

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[Boohoo]

This is almost identical to something I am after.

Got a rake coming and for now I will have the individual rotor left in 2 separate spools. Not sure I will want to do that forever due to ease of use, so, I'm thinking of putting in an electronic control of some sorts, would ask the dealer but I could imagine them wanting a further small fortune.

What I was thinking was you have your single pipe from the tractor which would go to a block with 2 out lets, both of which would be electronically controlled via a switch or buttons?

Does anyone have any insight as to the right way to go about this?

https://www.approvedhydraulics.co.uk/collections/cetop-3/products/hp-4-dwg-6-h Assume I need something like this?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Type M in the data sheet for that valve is the same as I posted above and in theory should work fine. However, I looked at a Pottinger rake with electric control for the individual rotor lift last night and it uses 2 separate valves to isolate each rotor as @Andrew suggested. I'm wondering if the flow through the cetop valve will be equal to each port, if it isn't it could cause issues.

 

[Ali_Maxxum]

Type M in the data sheet for that valve is the same as I posted above and in theory should work fine. However, I looked at a Pottinger rake with electric control for the individual rotor lift last night and it uses 2 separate valves to isolate each rotor as @Andrew suggested. I'm wondering if the flow through the cetop valve will be equal to each port, if it isn't it could cause issues.

So, all ports open? I must admit I can't make head nor tail of it at the moment. I would have thought the flow ought to be equal given what it is supposed to do?

https://www.approvedhydraulics.co.u...gle-solenoid-control-valve-ng06-p-to-a-b-to-t Otherwise one of these for each lift ram like you suggest?

 

[Boohoo]

So, all ports open? I must admit I can't make head nor tail of it at the moment. I would have thought the flow ought to be equal given what it is supposed to do?

https://www.approvedhydraulics.co.u...gle-solenoid-control-valve-ng06-p-to-a-b-to-t Otherwise one of these for each lift ram like you suggest?

If you go with one, 3 position valve it needs to look like this

Pressure connected to A and B when it's in the centre, P connected to B when it moves to the right and P connected to A when it moves to the left.

The one, 3 position valve should work fine but after looking at a Pottinger rake last night I'm questioning why they don't use it. More research required I think.

 

[Bloders]

you need two seperate valves to control each side seperately?
Also, do you need to ensure they are both balanced otherwise, if on a simple T one side could lift up before the other even starts to move - not sure if this is an issue or not.

If its not an issue, then plumb them into a T and then a simple electric isolator valve on each side and when you want to lift one side only, just isolate the ther side

or ive got it all wrong (probably)

 

[Ali_Maxxum]

If you go with one, 3 position valve it needs to look like this
View attachment 796430
Pressure connected to A and B when it's in the centre, P connected to B when it moves to the right and P connected to A when it moves to the left.

The one, 3 position valve should work fine but after looking at a Pottinger rake last night I'm questioning why they don't use it. More research required I think.

Right, that explains that bit, I would need to get my old college hydraulics schematic stuff out otherwise! It would be interesting to see what other manufacturers use.

So, with the single ones (one for each ram) you have your single pipe from tractor to a T. Then separate pipes from the T to the control valves? then from the control valves to the rams? Guess you still can't guarantee an even lift if both were open?

I might ring that place and ask them to see if they have any ideas.

 

[Andrew]

you need two seperate valves to control each side seperately?
Also, do you need to ensure they are both balanced otherwise, if on a simple T one side could lift up before the other even starts to move - not sure if this is an issue or not.

If its not an issue, then plumb them into a T and then a simple electric isolator valve on each side and when you want to lift one side only, just isolate the ther side

or ive got it all wrong (probably)

I think one valve as above should work, and is cheaper than the two isolators.
Most rakes without individual control are just tee’d together anyway so don’t that would be an issue.

 

[jamj]

Right, that explains that bit, I would need to get my old college hydraulics schematic stuff out otherwise! It would be interesting to see what other manufacturers use.

So, with the single ones (one for each ram) you have your single pipe from tractor to a T. Then separate pipes from the T to the control valves? then from the control valves to the rams? Guess you still can't guarantee an even lift if both were open?

I might ring that place and ask them to see if they have any ideas.

Is T not the return?
Although as said above, it would be better plumbed in as well.

 

[Ali_Maxxum]

I think one valve as above should work, and is cheaper than the two isolators.
Most rakes without individual control are just tee’d together anyway so don’t that would be an issue.

Right well if that was the case then it would certainly make life a bit cheaper/easier.

Next question would be control, I was thinking a 3 way switch so for example, middle position would mean both sides open, lift together and hopefully evenly. Then just say Left and Right positions for whichever one you want to raise and/or lower.

I've used a big Claas with a box and all and it seems to have a height limit that the rotor will lift when in 'field mode'. Unless I could somehow plumb in a Kuhn box but no doubt that would be mega bucks.

 

[davedb]

Right well if that was the case then it would certainly make life a bit cheaper/easier.

Next question would be control, I was thinking a 3 way switch so for example, middle position would mean both sides open, lift together and hopefully evenly. Then just say Left and Right positions for whichever one you want to raise and/or lower.

I've used a big Claas with a box and all and it seems to have a height limit that the rotor will lift when in 'field mode'. Unless I could somehow plumb in a Kuhn box but no doubt that would be mega bucks.

Usually they just lift to the catch when unlocked then if you pull the rope the catch lifts and lets you fold up