Fenwick
Member
- Location
- Bretagne France
I was told that the wire has to be tight so it runs under the insulating hair or wool and touches the skin, thus giving a harder kick.
interesting. thanks.
I was told that the wire has to be tight so it runs under the insulating hair or wool and touches the skin, thus giving a harder kick.
I think we used to strain normal HT to 200kg and then back it off to 160 . This wire maybe only needs 15kg of tension, which is just a fraction of the 350kg or whatever it takes to snap the wire, as you said it will snap at a knotI'd bé interested to hearing thé opinion down thérè on thé use of springs. Thérè are a few kiwi lads over here in France selling some décent fencing Gear. Théy are well against thé use of springs in HT fencing. Their argument is that thé HT is supple enough as is and that thé breaking point of thé Spring is less than thé dire anyway.
I went on an afternoon to sée thèm fencing. Interestingly they tighten thé fence a LOT. Which is thé opposite as to what de do AT home as thé current stops thé animals, not thé wire itself.
Besides, when thé wire is tight it breaks under pressure, so i dont get thé point. Which is why I originally wanted springs anyway.
That's certainly true with large wire, like 'number 8', hairy cattle give it hell whether electric or not. It's how I learnt to tie a Tex Brown, tightening up #8 wire fences the cows had stretchedI was told that the wire has to be tight so it runs under the insulating hair or wool and touches the skin, thus giving a harder kick.
I think we used to strain normal HT to 200kg and then back it off to 160 . This wire maybe only needs 15kg of tension, which is just a fraction of the 350kg or whatever it takes to snap the wire, as you said it will snap at a knot.
I'd prefer that to replacing a strainer post!
Wire will still break, more likely the termination on the post will give out. These springs have an inner wire to protect them from being overstretched - you put the inner and spring on one wire, but put the other wire through a loop in the inner and tie onto the spring, it will break thereSo thé springs give out before thé wire? does that mean you are then springs as well as repairing broken wire?
I've started using clipex strainer posts. incredibly expensive, but they do work well. certainly not likely to break one anytime soon. and no more messing around with braves.
I spotted some cables in a picture Pete posted up the thread , which were inserted into the springs to stop them over stretching, so in the event of a mishap it was just the wire to reattach. (Id post a link if I was more tec )So thé springs give out before thé wire? does that mean you are then springs as well as repairing broken wire?
I've started using clipex strainer posts. incredibly expensive, but they do work well. certainly not likely to break one anytime soon. and no more messing around with braves.
Had to google that knot. Looks good if I could manage it, I’ve never been very good at tying knots.That's certainly true with large wire, like 'number 8', hairy cattle give it hell whether electric or not. It's how I learnt to tie a Tex Brown, tightening up #8 wire fences the cows had stretched
I wondered what Santa did the rest of the year!Watching Dr Fred Provenza just now on a FACTS webinar:
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it's called an incredible balancing act. It goes against the grain when you get the cows in, and think i gave them to much ! But the grass they have trod on, is usually the grass they dislike, if you graze down tightly, all that happens is they graze the liked grass tighter, and leave the disliked alone, bit simplistic, but that's the gist of it. The trodden in grass, feeds the soil, the longer residuals allow the grasses to put a bit into it's roots, N and conventional thinking supports leaf growth, not root, support that root, the grass becomes 'stronger', having had 3 dry summers, rye grass was dying of, last summer, we left the longer residuals, and ended up with good leys, this spring, rather than thin ones. With a mixture of paddocks and strip grazing, with back fences, we try not to let the cows have more than 1 feed, and off, don't always achieve it, but we do try.Catching up with this thread, still trying to wrap my head around this holistic grazing in a dairy situation. Few pages back @Kiwi Pete spoke about 40m² per cow to fully feed in early rotations, that would be a mighty strong cover in a "conventional" viewpoint. How do we get to that kind of cover without early housing or delayed turnout? Or am I still viewing this with a reductionist viewpoint?
That's them! They have a big loop with a curve to slide along the wire and a neat end to tie toI spotted some cables in a picture Pete posted up the thread , which were inserted into the springs to stop them over stretching, so in the event of a mishap it was just the wire to reattach. (Id post a link if I was more tec )
Are you familiar with a ' spring rotation plan '?Catching up with this thread, still trying to wrap my head around this holistic grazing in a dairy situation. Few pages back @Kiwi Pete spoke about 40m² per cow to fully feed in early rotations, that would be a mighty strong cover in a "conventional" viewpoint. How do we get to that kind of cover without early housing or delayed turnout? Or am I still viewing this with a reductionist viewpoint?
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Yes, follow a spring rotation planner now, balance day is usually around 5th of april, however bloody cold here this year. We are probably calving too early and tight to what we used to and hence getting into a shortage now, fortunately have forage on hand but gonna move calving later next year as feel we're hitting peak before the grass is really there.Are you familiar with a ' spring rotation plan '?
You'll really only need to know when your pasture balance date is (when you are growing and grazing the same DM, depends on stocking rate and calving date but it is predictable)
Draw a straight line graph, say you have a planned start of calving on the 15th of August in NZ, and a balance date on the 15th of October, you had a theoretical 100 day recovery at PSC and will be on what fastest rotation speed? 21 days? 33 days?
Yes you will need strong grass, ie save a few paddocks at the backend to go into, so you have 3500kgDM/ha to calve on (you probably don't calve on grass) and for the colostrum cows, springing cows etc, but you'll also see that you need to be considering area rather than cover/food available to get you through that crucial spring period when growth increases exponentially but demand jumps up faster.
It's when you graze large areas of low cover that you come badly unstuck in late spring, because you are grazing far too fast, so if you are going to do this type of spring plan then try the fast speed of 21 days x PGR and then try 35 days, you'll be amazed at the difference in covers and how that area allocated shrinks.
Spring Rotation Planner Tool - DairyNZ | DairyNZ
The Spring Rotation Planner (SRP) takes the guesswork out of grazing management during and after calving.www.dairynz.co.nz
That's right, the thing is if you're going pretty much totally forage-fed then you need to have at least a small spring stockpile of feed carried over the winter months - because you simply won't grow enough if you deck every acre before dry-off.Yes, follow a spring rotation planner now, balance day is usually around 5th of april, however bloody cold here this year. We are probably calving too early and tight to what we used to and hence getting into a shortage now, fortunately have forage on hand but gonna move calving later next year as feel we're hitting peak before the grass is really there.
It was the 40m² max area a cow that got me thinking as to my eyes that's a min cover of 4500 and then being able to give that enough time to recover. Perhaps I'm trying to keep too many cows