JD 2030 Project

Roonstar

Member
Location
Hampshire
Thanks Dealer....

Many thanks for the informative reply. As I have never had any dealings with old classic tractors its a bit of a learning curve.

I'm going to replace everything on the front axle that needs it as I would rather do it now than a year or two down the line!

The lift hydraulics stay up without any issues and I have read another post somewhere that makes me think its the clutch cover plate.

I have not actually tried the hand brake, it moves freely up and down but the ratchet has rusted up so will not lock in as you lift it up.

Many thanks,
Mark
 

Roonstar

Member
Location
Hampshire
Thanks 76masseyman, that's really good to see.

Without having ever seen one without a cab its hard looking for photos on google of what they are supposed to look like.
 

Dealer

Member
Location
Shropshire
Will be 4 rubber like bushes only cost a few £'s undo the shaft then unscrew the allen socket bolts and push the bushes on, 10 minute job

while you have it undone fit new fan belt as well.
 

Roonstar

Member
Location
Hampshire
Well that's all the cab brackets off...

image.jpeg
 

Roonstar

Member
Location
Hampshire
Am I right in saying that some of the older JD Combine front wheels have the same stud pattern as my 2030? I have the 8" centres and also it has wheel spacers fitted.... Cheers
 

Roonstar

Member
Location
Hampshire
Ok really stumped now.... I need a new right side hydraulic pipe that goes from the valve to the female coupling. It goes down under the lift arm and back up the the bracket that holds the two couplings. Here is a photo you can see the right hand pipe has snapped and been bent over.
image.jpeg
 

Roonstar

Member
Location
Hampshire
My problem is according to JD Parts I need pipe no 4 which looks nothing like the one I need. Even no 3 the one that's fitted is a totally different shape... Can anyone help?

image.jpg
 

Roy_H

Member
Duncan cab was never the most aesthetically pleasing thing to look at, and they do look much nicer on shell fenders, the rakish square lines of the duncan cab really dont go with the curved bodywork of the tractor

restored a 2120 a few years ago, we wanted to do it with cab off, but owner wanted cab on, it cost him another £1000 just in labour by the time we had more or less built a new cab from scratch, that was without the steel, new glass and all new rubbers and door handles!!!!. All in the cab took longer to sort than the rest of the tractor combined, and cost more than what he paid for the tractor in the first place

I once saw an IH 674 that had been totally restored in a vintage tractor mag and it looked immaculate.... I should think it did! Apparently when he added up how much he had spent on it to restore it to its former glory he had spent over £14,000 on it!
 

Barley man

Member
Location
Yorkshire
I remember my John Deere 2130 leaked from the lower sensing shaft I put new socket / bushes as they were warn and put new seals in , usual job when doing a tractor up you think everything is ok so you paint it them seals start leaking, fuel leaks appear, most John Deere genuine parts are easy to get , I wanted a clutch plate for my model D , I ordered it and it was here the next day from Germany
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
I think, with the exception of engines , the main components of the 20 series are the same. I have restored a 920 and the transmission looks exactly the same and will take all rear wheels from 12.4x28 up to 38 inch. The wet brakes are the major cause of problems in these tractors because the linings are paper thin and very fussy about the amount and grade of transmission fluid. Leakage at the lower link hydraulic shaft slowly depletes the oil supply and before you know it you are running almost dry.Once the linings deteriorate and you have metal to metal contact your hydraulics take a battering from the swarf created. Take a look at your transmission filter to find out what is going on. This also affects the operation of the brakes as these are hydraulically operated using the transmission fluid rather than dedicated brake fluid.. They have to be bled through nipples on top of the half shaft trumpets. You are not long spending £1500-2000 on parts and hours of time cleaning the crap out of the back end. The engine is the easy bit! As for the cab I would be inclined to leave it off and fit shell mudguards but that depends what you want to use it for.
Good luck
 

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