John Deere 3050 30k delay going into high split

[Colin Elliott]

Can anybody shed some light with a 3050 30k taking a couple of seconds to fully engage high split? Going from high to low is instant but from low to high takes a while, I’ve just bought the tractor maby it’s normal?

 

[njneer]

Sounds like you have some internal
Leakage , the oil supply for the high/ low is shared with the pto and 4 wheel drive .
Put it in 4 wheel drive and see if it improves . If it does then the leakage may be worn seals in the 4 wheel drive pack .
With age the seals in the high low unit and 4 wheel drive and pto wear and you get some natural
Leakage which can bring the available pressure down and it takes longer to fill the high pack thus the delay.
If the 4 WD doesn’t improve it it may be a worn charge pump or a combination of worn pump and worn seals.
If it’s the 4 WD it can be removed and reseated from below , if it’s the charge pump and / or worn seals then it’s a cab off and split job.
If your splitting it reseal everything whilst your in it’s not sensible to go that far in and not do everything whilst there .

 

[Tractortech]

Now Then..
I would say the plastic sealing ring of the Lo brake within the Hi-Lo has split.
Unfortunately it's a cab off and split the transmission job. However, if it's a tidy tractor, you spend a bit in there it'll be good for years to come..

 

[Colin Elliott]

Sounds like you have some internal
Leakage , the oil supply for the high/ low is shared with the pto and 4 wheel drive .
Put it in 4 wheel drive and see if it improves . If it does then the leakage may be worn seals in the 4 wheel drive pack .
With age the seals in the high low unit and 4 wheel drive and pto wear and you get some natural
Leakage which can bring the available pressure down and it takes longer to fill the high pack thus the delay.
If the 4 WD doesn’t improve it it may be a worn charge pump or a combination of worn pump and worn seals.
If it’s the 4 WD it can be removed and reseated from below , if it’s the charge pump and / or worn seals then it’s a cab off and split job.
If your splitting it reseal everything whilst your in it’s not sensible to go that far in and not do everything whilst there .

I’ll be taking the cab off to repaint her anyway, is there much stripping to be done when she’s split? I’m looking to restore and sell so less money I spend the better but also want no excuses from a costumer to bargain the price down

 

[njneer]

I’ll be taking the cab off to repaint her anyway, is there much stripping to be done when she’s split? I’m looking to restore and sell so less money I spend the better but also want no excuses from a costumer to bargain the price down

Fair bit but not too bad , First floor mat out and access panel off and get a gauge on test point on shift cover and check pressure looking for 10 bar I think , and activate 4 WD on and off and hi - low and pto and look for overall low pressure or particular drops in pressure on a function.
Cab off need to remove the shaft from the 4 WD pack and drop the pack down, replace the piston rings on the shaft .
need to remove the hi / low unit and pto pack . You need to remove the gear from one of them before it will come out ( can’t remember which one ) .
Need to be careful removing and refitting the metal pipes and inspect and pressure test them for cracks. The charge pump is the very last thing in the bell housing.
Once all removed need to strip down all the individual units and check the clutch plates and replace all the seals.
Best try and get a repair manual to follow as there are some specific steps like timing the epicyclic gears in the high low unit when rebuilding.
Strip one unit at a time and lay it out nice and neat in order on some clean cardboard and it will greatly help your rebuild
Over all quite a nice job to do used to quite enjoy doing them .
There is a test point on the shift cover , looking for 10 bar from memory,
Once rebuilt you can cap the steering pipes and bleed up with some fuel from a gallon can and start and run for a short while with the cab off to test all your functions are holding pressure , looking for a slight dip in pressure as each pack fills but immediately back to pressure .
change the gasket sealing the plastic pipes before refitting the shift cover .
All seals will need to be identified and ordered separately but the gasket set for the casings comes as one with the o rings between the halves.

 

[Colin Elliott]

Fair bit but not too bad , First floor mat out and access panel off and get a gauge on test point on shift cover and check pressure looking for 10 bar I think , and activate 4 WD on and off and hi - low and pto and look for overall low pressure or particular drops in pressure on a function.
Cab off need to remove the shaft from the 4 WD pack and drop the pack down, replace the piston rings on the shaft .
need to remove the hi / low unit and pto pack . You need to remove the gear from one of them before it will come out ( can’t remember which one ) .
Need to be careful removing and refitting the metal pipes and inspect and pressure test them for cracks. The charge pump is the very last thing in the bell housing.
Once all removed need to strip down all the individual units and check the clutch plates and replace all the seals.
Best try and get a repair manual to follow as there are some specific steps like timing the epicyclic gears in the high low unit when rebuilding.
Strip one unit at a time and lay it out nice and neat in order on some clean cardboard and it will greatly help your rebuild
Over all quite a nice job to do used to quite enjoy doing them .
There is a test point on the shift cover , looking for 10 bar from memory,
Once rebuilt you can cap the steering pipes and bleed up with some fuel from a gallon can and start and run for a short while with the cab off to test all your functions are holding pressure , looking for a slight dip in pressure as each pack fills but immediately back to pressure .
change the gasket sealing the plastic pipes before refitting the shift cover .
All seals will need to be identified and ordered separately but the gasket set for the casings comes as one with the o rings between the halves.

Another problem I have is the front hydraulic pump is rattling, the drive shaft for it is a bit loose both ends , the rattle stops when the arms are lifting up , the arms judder while goin up too.. is the pump goosed? Can they be done up?

 

[njneer]

Another problem I have is the front hydraulic pump is rattling, the drive shaft for it is a bit loose both ends , the rattle stops when the arms are lifting up , the arms judder while goin up too.. is the pump goosed? Can they be done up?

Could all be related as the charge pump in the bell housing primes the main pump .
When you have either worn charge pump or leakage or both the pressure and flow drops and the hi low can be slow , or the pto handle won’t stay in or the arms judder when lifting .
Sorting out your internal leaks will
Likely cure the other symptoms as well.

 

[Colin Elliott]

Could all be related as the charge pump in the bell housing primes the main pump .
When you have either worn charge pump or leakage or both the pressure and flow drops and the hi low can be slow , or the pto handle won’t stay in or the arms judder when lifting .
Sorting out your internal leaks will
Likely cure the other symptoms as well.

I went a drive tonight and tried the 4wd in to see if it made a difference, made no difference still a delay and almost a slip when engaging hi split. So I’ll split it then, I’m told the pto was replaced a short time ago . Is the charge pump expensive?

 

[Tractortech]

In my experience, it's rare to need a charge pump. The Hi-Lo plates will be worn and the plastic seal may have split. As suggested, replace all the seals on all the pipes internally. Whip the rockshaft off, replace the O-Rings in the valves and check the piston seal. There's a pipe spacer in the MFWD clutch which is usually worn to excess, I'd replace it too. You're looking for 10.5 Bar in the transmission (155 psi) check the filter bypass valve too.
I'd put a 0 - 150 psi gauge in the main pump supply elbow, just check when it's up to temperature that you still have positive pressure..

 

[Colin Elliott]

In my experience, it's rare to need a charge pump. The Hi-Lo plates will be worn and the plastic seal may have split. As suggested, replace all the seals on all the pipes internally. Whip the rockshaft off, replace the O-Rings in the valves and check the piston seal. There's a pipe spacer in the MFWD clutch which is usually worn to excess, I'd replace it too. You're looking for 10.5 Bar in the transmission (155 psi) check the filter bypass valve too.
I'd put a 0 - 150 psi gauge in the main pump supply elbow, just check when it's up to temperature that you still have positive pressure..

Thanks lad