Lathe tools
- Thread starter berisford
- Start date
burr elm
Member
- Location
- Bedfordshire
Do them yourself, it will soon get expensive paying someone else to sharpen tool bits.
Goweresque
Member
- Location
- North Wilts
Get a silicon carbide grinding wheel for your bench grinder and you should be able to do them yourself.
massey765
Member
- Location
- nr clitheroe lancs
I would get the replaceable 3 cornered tips......proper job
TheTallGuy
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
The indexable tip tools are great for mist jobs and I wouldn't be without them, but for some jobs the ability to grind a custom tool from hss blanks is very handy.
Zebbedee
Member
- Location
- Scotland in the best bit
Yes but if you canna sharpen them yourself ( like me ) then the replaceable tips are the way to go as most machine shops do, but if you know what you are doing hss blanks will grind to do awkward jobs etc as you say. For the op I would suggest replaceable tips and holders
There seems to be different grit sizes on silicon carbide wheels,which are the best for sharpening.
Can anyone suggest a good quality lathe tool with replaceable tips,I have got a large lathe with a tool holder which can hold tools up to 1.5 inch square.
The problem with farm lathes they get used in a hurry to mend things with bits of metal which should not be used on a lathe.
Can anyone suggest a good quality lathe tool with replaceable tips,I have got a large lathe with a tool holder which can hold tools up to 1.5 inch square.
The problem with farm lathes they get used in a hurry to mend things with bits of metal which should not be used on a lathe.
ive gone away from coolant, i use neat cutting oil applied with a brush, i find it a better lube and far less messy.
i use a spray mist from time to time too and find it a good job but you still end up with a wet working area all be it a lot less.
id rarely use any coolant now, mostly dab oil on the work.
on mild steel unless it was a long cut i wouldnt normally use any lube at all, its soft enough as it is.
as for lathe tools, simmy is right on the carbide tooling suggested, i wouldnt use much HSS unless i had to grind a profile normally.
tbh im a bit of a tool snob, but for good reason, keep your eye on e bay for a quality brand of tool, the no name types wont give as good a finish as they are cheap for a reason.
iscar, kennametal,sandvik and seco for instance are all good brands of tooling.
a search like this in auctions will eventually turn up bargains in carbide tooling, take your time and click watch on suitable tooling as you go, bid on them if they are worth it.
as for sharpening hss tooling, have a search on the tube, there will be countless videos on how to sharpen hss, after that practice makes perfect as they say, its a good thing to learn,
understand the tool angles and what they are for, once you get a handle on that end of it you will be better able to understand why your grinding the stock in a certain way.
TheTallGuy
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
I've never had much problem with the cheap tools, but good quality inserts can make a big difference. Most of my tools are 16mm shank which seems a good balance between being solid enough to take a beating on deep rough cuts without being too big for the fiddly work. The two tools where quality will really pay off are boring bars and parting tools.
I'm still a fan of flood coolant, but having a big lathe that is fully set up for it makes it easy - the biggest pita is changing the fluid occasionally. For quick a quick light skim I sometimes just brush some cutting oil on, but proper flood lube also helps to clear the cutting area of chips & dust which gives a better & more accurate finnish as well as prolonging cutter life.
I'm still a fan of flood coolant, but having a big lathe that is fully set up for it makes it easy - the biggest pita is changing the fluid occasionally. For quick a quick light skim I sometimes just brush some cutting oil on, but proper flood lube also helps to clear the cutting area of chips & dust which gives a better & more accurate finnish as well as prolonging cutter life.
- Location
- Suffolk
I've bought several bits here in the past.
https://www.shop-apt.co.uk
Somewhere on the site I think there is a handy guide showing all the tip shapes and codes and which direction they can be used in.
https://www.shop-apt.co.uk
Somewhere on the site I think there is a handy guide showing all the tip shapes and codes and which direction they can be used in.
Simmy
Member
Only problem with oil is the smoke. I always got told that your not lubricating the tool, your keeping it cool. Them CNMG tips,, we used to rough out some long adjusting screws for tata. And you could take 7mm off a side. So 14mm cut at 200 rpm at 0.4mm feed. Chip breaking the cuttings. None of this swarf rubbish [emoji41][emoji41] I trained up and qualified as a miller turner. We used all kinds of tooling from hss, ceramic, diamond tipped, and even making your own out of mild steel and case hardening it. Used to do a lot of that when making rolls for pipe benders. I've even seen people making small boring bars out of an old m5 tap.
Last edited:
crofter 65
Member
- Location
- Ross-Shire
For coolant I use water soluble oil, through the pump at work, but on my wee lathe at home I have a jam jar of coolant and just brush it on diluted to my preference.
Simmy
Member
opininionated
Member
Simmy
Member
Adjusting screws. Have a trapezoidal thread on them with a brass nut. I'm sure they were for tata scunthorpe.
opininionated
Member
And how long were you working on that?
Simmy
Member
Takes a day to complete one. But we done them in batches of 12. So roughed them all out. Finished them to size. Then screw cut them to the brass nut. So that they're a matching pair.
- Location
- roe valley
Jeez i love that, one of my best friends used to have a precision business i was always in looking to see what was going on. The harder and more unique the task the more he wanted it.