Lime grows grass

2wheels

Member
Location
aberdeenshire
Yes, I believe it’s mag lime.
father used it 50+yrs ago, it was very fine stuff. it was delivered in a flat bed lorry with 18"- 2ft dropsides and we had to shovel it out. the driver would have left ullapool in the morning and was with us early evening. a good way to work off my tea. must have been fit then. :) 💪
 

Derrick Hughes

Member
Location
Ceredigion
Tests have gone it?

That doesn't make sense sorry.

I do when backed by evidence. Seen enough salesmen with pieces of paper claiming all sorts!
Your results from Limex are extremely worrying, if i had a product like that and the results I wouldn't be paying for it thats for sure!
What was the feedback from the supplying company.



I have my goto local guy and national firms to cover various seedhouses, but if ever need a quote I will message you.
I work for a National firm
Why do you find it worrying. The NV value is as they stated on the can . For what I have seen of the product is very fine and available. Better than spreading hard gritt
My comment on slag was a typo , I've sampled some test fields to see how it has performed against untreated
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
I'm not suggesting anything really just showing the results of the independent test
I'm to busy atm to get my head around it
But the K level did surprise me but then a big beet grower to tell me it had k in

Like I said I its a products that I suspect varies a lot although the NV was as said
How big were the beet he grew?
 

Blondefan

Member
Livestock Farmer
Wanting to do some liming in spring on pasture / silage ground. Question is how long do I have to wait to apply fert / be able to take 1st cut - will be spreading c.2t to the acre. Thanks
 

Macsky

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Highland
Wanting to do some liming in spring on pasture / silage ground. Question is how long do I have to wait to apply fert / be able to take 1st cut - will be spreading c.2t to the acre. Thanks
I wouldn’t see any problems going at the same time, apply when the ground is reasonably bare so the lime gets straight on the ground, and cut when ready. Lime would only be a problem if applied too late and hadn’t washed off the leaf before cutting, not sure how much of a problem it would be but I’d rather the lime on the ground!
 

Yale

Member
Livestock Farmer
A little bit of Yorkshire covering North Wales.

Chalk lime spread 3 months ago literally inches above limestone.

2AF4F280-C008-4574-8BD9-81FF2C48D5BE.jpeg
 

Derrick Hughes

Member
Location
Ceredigion
Wanting to do some liming in spring on pasture / silage ground. Question is how long do I have to wait to apply fert / be able to take 1st cut - will be spreading c.2t to the acre. Thanks
Don't spread urea near or soon after. I would do the firt first it will be soon gone as the lime may hang about .
If you spread urea you will lose most of it
But surely you have plenty of time to get it on before 1st cut . I will be liming as soon as its dries . Hopefully in March


I can remember walking over a reseeded field that had been limed and had urea worked in at the same time . I nearly passed out with the urea gas coming off the ground
 
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Derrick Hughes

Member
Location
Ceredigion
This is what the experts say


Can I spread urea in the same year as I spread lime ?
A. The response to urea can be very [http://www]poor if it’s applied within eight weeks of an application of lime. A reaction occurs between the urea and the freshly applied lime particle’s which results in much of the urea being lost to the atmosphere as a gas (volatilisation)
 
This is what the experts say


Can I spread urea in the same year as I spread lime ?
A. The response to urea can be very [http://www]poor if it’s applied within eight weeks of an application of lime. A reaction occurs between the urea and the freshly applied lime particle’s which results in much of the urea being lost to the atmosphere as a gas (volatilisation)

When urea is applied to dry ground over 60% of the N can go as ammonia. Better to burn the money as it costs less as no labour and diesel involved. The chemical reaction with lime can be greater if in contact when moist.
Apply urea when immediate weather forecast says rain.

Regarding the discussion about lime quality: Beware of crushed limestone if the rock is hard limestone. Marble (the hardest form of calcium carbonate) may have the highest reading of the active ingredient to neutralise acidic soils, but is not soluble in soil moisture. Michelangelo's chips from carving "David" probably haven't dissolved yet, but some lower calcium carbonate lime stone can be very reactive because it readily dissolves.
A quick test is to put a tea spoon of the lime product in a glass of water. Stir for a minute and leave overnight. If most is in suspension the next day it's a goodun, if mainly all still sitting on the bottom it is better used on driveways.
Harder limestone needs to be very finely ground......like icing sugar. In the old days these were roasted in a kiln to form burnt lime (highly reactive).
 
Good advice, and the easiest way to ensure you buy a good quality lime is to ensure it is a ground sample and not just a screened sample.

Any lime salesman can say their lime is produced from a soft rock and nobody buying it would know the difference. But if you put a sample of ground and screened lime together the difference is visible for all to see.

Ensure you buy ground lime every time.
 

Sid

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
South Molton
Good advice, and the easiest way to ensure you buy a good quality lime is to ensure it is a ground sample and not just a screened sample.

Any lime salesman can say their lime is produced from a soft rock and nobody buying it would know the difference. But if you put a sample of ground and screened lime together the difference is visible for all to see.

Ensure you buy ground lime every time.
Ground limestone was the only product allowed under the old MAFF grants.
That was for a reason.
 

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