Matbro & Perkins

[multi power]

No not really if its got oil, water or fuel and its a perkins non common rail then leaks are normal

I'm not sure about that, I have a AT 4 236 and 2 6 354's and a 4 203 and none of them leak oil

 

[rns502]

Swan Vestas

Looks a bit oilly in pic so might not need many vestas to get it going

maybe not, yet It had broken/cracked breather tube, that's why oily.

Not sure I think the pump may have to come apart? On the later delphi pumps the seal is fitted from inside the pump body I don't know about the earlier cav and lucas pumps?

I would expect crank pulley nut to be normal right hand thread.

It should be by the looks Cav Dps pump. Manual does not mention the opening direction, so normal thread?

 

[ACEngineering]

maybe not, yet It had broken/cracked breather tube, that's why oily.


It should be by the looks Cav Dps pump. Manual does not mention the opening direction, so normal thread?

Yes all normal right hand thread on 1000 series perkins in matbro.

 

[rns502]

It should be by the looks Cav Dps pump.

Is this CAV Dps type? Can you change shaft seal in this model without opening the pump?
Although I think it is wise to take it to diesel workshop when removing it from the engine.

 

[ACEngineering]

Is this CAV Dps type? Can you change shaft seal in this model without opening the pump?
Although I think it is wise to take it to diesel workshop when removing it from the engine.

its either a DPA or a DPS? don't know if seal can be done with out stripping it down, you should find once its off a circlip holding a washer on the pump shaft once this is removed you should see the seal and if it can be changed or not.

 

[rns502]

its either a DPA or a DPS? don't know if seal can be done with out stripping it down, you should find once its off a circlip holding a washer on the pump shaft once this is removed you should see the seal and if it can be changed or not.

It had the circlip on the pump shaft. But I took the pump to diesel workshop, they will rebuild the pump.

I had some 1000-series workshop manual but apparently this Perkins is different.
It looked that I can take pump out without removing all timing gear case.

How safely pump gear keeps its timing (in picture)?
I tried if it could jump teeth when injection pump and water pump is removed , to me it felt it can't.
Should I assure the timing when reassembling with opening all timing case?

 

[ACEngineering]

[QUITE="rns502, post: 2203960, member: 39306"]It had the circlip on the pump shaft. But I took the pump to diesel workshop, they will rebuild the pump.

I had some 1000-series workshop manual but apparently this Perkins is different.
It looked that I can take pump out without removing all timing gear case.

How safely pump gear keeps its timing (in picture)?
I tried if it could jump teeth when injection pump and water pump is removed , to me it felt it can't.
Should I assure the timing when reassembling with opening all timing case?[/QUOTE]

No It shouldn't go anywhere obviously dont turn engine though.

You broke the bolt off there too that one often breaks its a long one goes in to engine block. Pain in the arse you wont get that out with out taking all timing gears out and timing case off block.

 

[rns502]

Good to know timing should be ok

You broke the bolt off there too that one often breaks its a long one goes in to engine block. Pain in the arse you wont get that out with out taking all timing gears out and timing case off block.

You mean bolt up left in picture? Bolt that holds water pump?
I didn't even think of that yet, so it is hard to fix?
Can't you just drill a hole in it and so on?

 

[ACEngineering]

Good to know timing should be ok

You mean bolt up left in picture? Bolt that holds water pump?
I didn't even think of that yet, so it is hard to fix?
Can't you just drill a hole in it and so on?

Good to know timing should be ok

You mean bolt up left in picture? Bolt that holds water pump?
I didn't even think of that yet, so it is hard to fix?
Can't you just drill a hole in it and so on?

it a m8 bolt in whats probably about a 10mm hole in aluminium and the aluminium must be about 2 1/4" deep then theres the threads in the block. only once have I ever been successful in getting one out with out removing the casing. often the best thing is to leave it alone clean it all up a new oring and some sealent put it all back together and hope it don't leak.

Its the bolt seized in the aluminium that's always the problem. due to water leaking past the gasket to the block and up the bolt hole corroding it. the threads in to the block are the easy bit if the case is removed.

 

[rns502]

it a m8 bolt in whats probably about a 10mm hole in aluminium and the aluminium must be about 2 1/4" deep then theres the threads in the block.
only once have I ever been successful in getting one out with out removing the casing. often the best thing is to leave it alone clean it all up a new oring and some sealent put it all back together and hope it don't leak.

Ok, thanks. So the bolt is not vital to hold timing case? I though also welding a nut on it but that aluminum there may cause trouble.

 

[ACEngineering]

Ok, thanks. So the bolt is not vital to hold timing case? I though also welding a nut on it but that aluminum there may cause trouble.

well it does hold it yes but there are plenty others as well, it just depends if it leaks or not. it will be water that leaks out not oil. That part of the timing case gasket is prone to leaking anyway at the best of times.

 

[rns502]

I got injection pump reconditioned.
What is the torque amount for pump timing gear nut?

I didn't take injectors for recondition as shop quoted 450eur=350gbp for the job(4new nozzles + adjustment), felt high price, and as it can be done later too.
Is there any online shop selling ready reconditioned ones cheaper than that? Or should I try later other local diesel workshops?

 

[ACEngineering]

I got injection pump reconditioned.
What is the torque amount for pump timing gear nut?

I didn't take injectors for recondition as shop quoted 450eur=350gbp for the job(4new nozzles + adjustment), felt high price, and as it can be done later too.
Is there any online shop selling ready reconditioned ones cheaper than that? Or should I try later other local diesel workshops?

torque setting! bit technical that. I just do them by feel! never any bother. sorry I cant find a torque setting for it as yet.

injectors over here I would say you could buy a set of brand new injectors for that money? but of a guess but I would expect about £50 to £65 each recon max.

 

[Dman2]

I got injection pump reconditioned.
What is the torque amount for pump timing gear nut?

I didn't take injectors for recondition as shop quoted 450eur=350gbp for the job(4new nozzles + adjustment), felt high price, and as it can be done later too.
Is there any online shop selling ready reconditioned ones cheaper than that? Or should I try later other local diesel workshops?

Give diperk in manchester a ring regarding injectors, seem to remember for perkins it was cheaper to replace than repair

 

[ACEngineering]

Give diperk in manchester a ring regarding injectors, seem to remember for perkins it was cheaper to replace than repair

The guys in Finland! Diperk dont really sell out side of this little island! they weren't to keen on shipping some parts direct to a customer in northern Ireland for me due to it being out of there distribution area! so Finland might be a stretch too far

 

[Dman2]

Supprised at that, no hassle sending stuff outside uk surely
Get stuff from China all the time

 

[rns502]

After few hours hours I can say fuel in oil leakage is gone. Engine have now smooth idle as extra feature and fairly any visible fuses in the exhaust.
I didn't do anything for the broken waterpump/timing cover bolt. Just new o-ring gasket and some automotive sealant really seem to keep coolant from leaking.
Those injectors I will check later. The price I got just felt a bit much as I got the approximate same price new tuned-up +170bhp injectors for my 110bhp Valtra.

 

[Blue.]

After few hours hours I can say fuel in oil leakage is gone. Engine have now smooth idle as extra feature and fairly any visible fuses in the exhaust.
I didn't do anything for the broken waterpump/timing cover bolt. Just new o-ring gasket and some automotive sealant really seem to keep coolant from leaking.
Those injectors I will check later. The price I got just felt a bit much as I got the approximate same price new tuned-up +170bhp injectors for my 110bhp Valtra.

I'm sure PV Dobsons would sort you with injectors.