Mchale Fusion 2 cut and hold problems

[northoftheborder]

Does someone know other solitions? These days with high temperatures the film tears off almost every bale, tried everything mentioned above. We have cleaned the surface with sanding paper 120 what was recommended by our dealer. Bled both accumulators and cilinders from air. Installed new sharp blades. Checked all the bearings in the dispenser units. Tried different brands of film.

But nothing seems to fix te problem, after cleaning the surface of the Rams it sometimes works for 20 bales but sometimes only 2. Any tips we could try to get it to work? The problem is every time with starting up, when it turns it’s doing fine. The film damages with the retracting of the rams.

Kind regards, a fusion 2 user.

Keep your unused rolls out of the sun.

 

[fusion2user]

Keep your unused rolls out of the sun.

We keep them in the shadow as long as possible and even with new rolls coming straight from the shed it keeps tearing,

 

[kill]

Have you actually jumped out of the cab and watched the wrapper working as it's far easier to see what's happening when watching closely.
Bleeding the accumulator is not a 30 second job as it needs to be bleed until the pipe runs with clear oil and not air polluted , white oil. I very often twerk the spool valve on the side of the baler for the film catchers as gets the job done quicker.

 

[kill]

The film damages with the retracting of the rams.

Kind regards, a fusion 2 user.

Bleed the accumulators. Arms not opening full length because of air in system

 

[fusion2user]

Have you actually jumped out of the cab and watched the wrapper working as it's far easier to see what's happening when watching closely.
Bleeding the accumulator is not a 30 second job as it needs to be bleed until the pipe runs with clear oil and not air polluted , white oil. I very often twerk the spool valve on the side of the baler for the film catchers as gets the job done quicker.

Yes, the Rams open fully. Watched it several times standing at te back. Bleeding Has been done until it was clear oil coming out

 

[Kiwi Pete]

Does it make any difference as you go through the film on the roll?
Just wondering if it's sticky gears in the dispenser "stretchers" rather than an actual cut&hold problem, or the wrapper itself is starting off a bit quick, can you turn the flow down a little and see if the problem remains with a slower hoop speed?

We had all sorts of trouble with them, but it was often just the film - and the gears meant some films were being overstretched, which was making them tear on startup

 

[fusion2user]

Does it make any difference as you go through the film on the roll?
Just wondering if it's sticky gears in the dispenser "stretchers" rather than an actual cut&hold problem, or the wrapper itself is starting off a bit quick, can you turn the flow down a little and see if the problem remains with a slower hoop speed?

We had all sorts of trouble with them, but it was often just the film - and the gears meant some films were being overstretched, which was making them tear on startup

No the amount of film left on the rolls doesn’t make much of a difference. The sticking of the gears has been checked, they are greasy but not to much, turns fine if i turn them by hand.

The speed of the hoop is something we could try, how do you adjust it? On the hydraulic block itself or somewhere else?

Is the retracting speed of the Rams also adjustable? If it could i would also want to try to set those at a slower speed.

 

[Kiwi Pete]

No the amount of film left on the rolls doesn’t make much of a difference. The sticking of the gears has been checked, they are greasy but not to much, turns fine if i turn them by hand.

The speed of the hoop is something we could try, how do you adjust it? On the hydraulic block itself or somewhere else?

Is the retracting speed of the Rams also adjustable? If it could i would also want to try to set those at a slower speed.

Not too sure if you can slow down the cut&holds at all, but we had to turn down the flow to the whole baler when we got the F2 as we were used to backing them downhill to transfer in the F1's, and the bales were shooting straight thru the wrapper
There should be a row of adjusters on the spool block, but I couldn't be sure which one drives the hoop motor without seeing one... or you could just turn the flow back a little, what do you have your baler on, is it a load-sensing hyd. setup?

 

[Finn farmer]

We had serious problems with the wrapper last summer (and when i say serious i mean that we had to stop working for 2 hours to find out the cause). Film kept snapping at the start of wrapping, it was stored in a windowless shed in its cardboard box. But the reason still turned out to be the film. Half a pallet was bad, we still don't know if it was caused by a manufacturing defect or storaging of the manufacturer (because it was delivered straight from the manufacturers warehouse). The film was soft to the touch, my thumb would sink several millimeters into the roll, whereas a healthy roll won't let your finger sink at all. So i recommend that you start poking your rolls thoroughly when adding them to the baler. Our film was one of the expensivest ones out there, so we can't fault expense cutting for poor quality. We got new rolls in for free, but that episode definitely left a dent in our trust, since we've used the same make of film for almost 20 years and never had problems before.

 

[fusion2user]

Not too sure if you can slow down the cut&holds at all, but we had to turn down the flow to the whole baler when we got the F2 as we were used to backing them downhill to transfer in the F1's, and the bales were shooting straight thru the wrapper
There should be a row of adjusters on the spool block, but I couldn't be sure which one drives the hoop motor without seeing one... or you could just turn the flow back a little, what do you have your baler on, is it a load-sensing hyd. setup?

Yes, it is load sense.
I know which one drives the hoop, but don’t know exactly how it is contolled to have the two speeds on it. Turning back the flow of the whole baler is done at the baler or on the tractor?

 

[Finn farmer]

Yes, it is load sense.
I know which one drives the hoop, but don’t know exactly how it is contolled to have the two speeds on it. Turning back the flow of the whole baler is done at the baler or on the tractor?

How long have you been using your baler? Does your tractor have big enough freeflow return for the oil, as that being too small was the cause that our McHale didn't wrap correctly when we got it. Father swapped the 3/4" freeflow return to 1/2" so it wasn't freeflow anymore and restricted the flow.

 

[Kiwi Pete]

Yes, it is load sense.
I know which one drives the hoop, but don’t know exactly how it is contolled to have the two speeds on it. Turning back the flow of the whole baler is done at the baler or on the tractor?

Either, I think the manual has the settings for setting the flow properly at the baler spool block.
I'd love to say "just screw it right in and back it out 1 3/4 turns" but this is delving deep into my memory banks, now, what I do know is that if you speed the hoop up much then the controller will shut it down... because that was our initial problem with running them on the MFs with such good flow.
One other thing, I'm assuming your baler is used; when the cut&holds run in and out, do they move really smoothly or "judder" a little when retracting? And have you noticed if the sliders have any wear just at the edge, where the film wraps over the end plate when they are in?

 

[fusion2user]

How long have you been using your baler? Does your tractor have big enough freeflow return for the oil, as that being too small was the cause that our McHale didn't wrap correctly when we got it. Father swapped the 3/4" freeflow return to 1/2" so it wasn't freeflow anymore and restricted the flow.

It has done about 28000 bales mostly with the same tractor but we have had different tractors for it but not in hot summer days.

It turns at 29 rpm with normal wrapping

The return pipe is a 1/2”
Pump on the tractor gives plenty of oil if needed.

 

[fusion2user]

Either, I think the manual has the settings for setting the flow properly at the baler spool block.
I'd love to say "just screw it right in and back it out 1 3/4 turns" but this is delving deep into my memory banks, now, what I do know is that if you speed the hoop up much then the controller will shut it down... because that was our initial problem with running them on the MFs with such good flow.
One other thing, I'm assuming your baler is used; when the cut&holds run in and out, do they move really smoothly or "judder" a little when retracting? And have you noticed if the sliders have any wear just at the edge, where the film wraps over the end plate when they are in?

The Rams move smoothly in and out but they move fast. The edge on the end plate is smooth, problematiek are with both left and right by the way.

 

[Finn farmer]

It has done about 28000 bales mostly with the same tractor but we have had different tractors for it but not in hot summer days.

It turns at 29 rpm with normal wrapping

The return pipe is a 1/2”
Pump on the tractor gives plenty of oil if needed.

Has it always been 1/2"? Since on our Jd that was the problem, when we swapped back to 3/4" return everything worked brilliantly and has been so for 8 years.

 

[fusion2user]

Has it always been 1/2"? Since on our Jd that was the problem, when we swapped back to 3/4" return everything worked brilliantly and has been so for 8 years.

Oh sorry, it has always been a 3/4” return pipe. Not a 1/2”, my mistake

 

[v8willy]

The Rams move smoothly in and out but they move fast. The edge on the end plate is smooth, problematiek are with both left and right by the way.

Just a point on the left & right, the left will be the right on the next bale.
Maybe put a dab of paint on one of the dispensers or bit of twine just to tell them apart till you get it sorted?

 

[fusion2user]

Just a point on the left & right, the left will be the right on the next bale.
Maybe put a dab of paint on one of the dispensers or bit of twine just to tell them apart till you get it sorted?

I didn’t know that, but when it tears it is random at wich position I make it stop and from that it starts over again. I have one dispenser already marked but problems are with both.

 

[Greg1970]

I still have the same problems - tears at start of wrapping. I think the problem is little bits of plastic stuck to the hold arms. They make a ruff surface so the very thin plastic gets a tear in it which lets go at start off on the next bale. My solution is to stand them smooth with 80 grit paper every time it happens. I'm getting fast at this. I take a cresent and put it on the valve bank lever arm for the cut and hold arms(back one or second back) then gently close the door on it. That holds it engaged and the arms stay out so I can quickly give them a sand. Be very careful though if cresent slips then arms will fly back in! also watch the knife blade, easy to cut yourself. After this it seems to go good for a bit. I like to jump out and watch it wrap. Once it finishes watch the arms come all the way out?, and when they go back in is there any tears in the plastic? arms not out is the air in accuators , tear in pastic is ruff surface. I find balers have little problems and the key is to have a solution to each. When I got my baler I changed the plastic stretch gears from 64% to 75% and I do wonder if this is asking for trouble, but I wanted good baleage so will live with it. Good luck

 

[robo]

we had trouble with wrap tearing at start of cycle found cleaning dispencers wih either steam cleaner if in the yard or a can of brake cleaner in field removed the sticky resin. we seem to be getting along quite well now. hopefully