Mixed messages from "experts"?

O'Reilly

Member
Andrew ran through his best practise protocol for drying cows off in order to minimise the risk of introducing bacteria.

"Firstly start with a teat clean enough that you'd be happy to put it in your mouth!" he jokes. "Remove all signs of muck on the teats. Always remember to clean the teats furthest away from you first, followed by the near ones. When you're tubing the cows reverse this order. This reduces the risk of introducing infection by brushing your hands against, and contaminating, clean teats. Then do the following:

  • Pre dip and leave the udder for 30 seconds before wiping dry
  • Clean the teat with surgical spirit and cotton wool and leave to dry
  • Strip the teat to remove bugs from the milk canal
  • Clean the teat again with surgical spirit and leave to dry
  • Use the antibiotic on all four quarters
  • Clean the teat again, using surgical spirit, if you are going to use a teat sealant
http://dairy.ahdb.org.uk/news/techn...answer-isnt-in-a-tube-or-bottle/#.Vkj8_r9Q2fI
Pre-dip, with a proper pre-dip product is vital. Allowing to dry after cleaning with surgical spirit is also vital - wet surgical spirit is not a disinfectant. It kills bugs by drying them out.

It is vital to pinch the top of the teat when infusing teat sealant.

It is vital to re disinfect the teat after the antibiotic, if you are then infusing teat sealant.

It is vital if the cow moves or kicks the teats you START AGAIN at dipping.

Gloves must me worn and must be spotless throughout.

Post dip afterwards and stand the cows for 30 minutes.

Never do it in a foot crush.
Who's he kidding? By all means pre dip all teats at once, but the final spirits clean one teat, tube, clean next teat, tube etc, or else she fidgets, flicks sh!t on a teat, you either start again, or don't notice and get problems. If you get too carried away with the faffing, the cows get bored and bad tempered, then cleanliness becomes very difficult to achieve.
 

bovine

Member
Location
North
but the final spirits clean one teat, tube,

You have to let it dry. It depends on the temperature, humidity and how much spirit you apply, but it can take a minute or two to fully evaporate. It needs to be 100% dry to kill anything. Otherwise you are creating a bacterial soup.

you either start again, or don't notice and get problems.

If she moves or there is a breakdown in technique you must start again. Not noticing is not good enough.

There's not really negotiation in this. Just do it properly. It's a technical job. It takes skill, time and concentration. Not something to do if you are in a rush or angry. If it's a paddling cow you may need a kick bar.
 

Sid

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
South Molton
I seal them in the parlour after their last milking. The joys of feeding in the parlour allows them to concentrate on eating rather than annoying me.
After milking I predip again clean gloves on wipe with paper towel.
Using the free teat towels clean the end of every teat till they are spotless. And I mean spotless.
Starting from furthest teat away seal them with a single tube per quarter.
Dip with barrier dip and out to stand in clean yard for half hour before moving to dry cow paddock or shed.
 
How much would a prescription cost ?

Our vet will be charging well over £300 for 120 Boviseal, I haven't had the bill yet :eek:
bruce have you asked for a quote for orbeseal ? just asked for a quote from our vet for both boviseal and orbeseal they said it was pointless getting a price for boviseal as it is soooo expensive in comparison to orbeseal. the quote for orbeseal was £160 or £5.33 per cow if paying on pick up.

lazy
 

O'Reilly

Member
bruce have you asked for a quote for orbeseal ? just asked for a quote from our vet for both boviseal and orbeseal they said it was pointless getting a price for boviseal as it is soooo expensive in comparison to orbeseal. the quote for orbeseal was £160 or £5.33 per cow if paying on pick up.

lazy
There's less product in some of these copy tubes as well.
 

bovine

Member
Location
North
Different practices get different discounts.

Boviseal and Orbeseal come from the same factory. Noroseal and Cepralock come from the same factory.
 

Bruce Almighty

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Warwickshire
bruce have you asked for a quote for orbeseal ? just asked for a quote from our vet for both boviseal and orbeseal they said it was pointless getting a price for boviseal as it is soooo expensive in comparison to orbeseal. the quote for orbeseal was £160 or £5.33 per cow if paying on pick up.

lazy

I always ask for the cheapest teat sealant, I have used Orbeseal, Noroseal & Boviseal over the years. Unfortunately our vets only have about 3 or 4 dairy herds left, they don't have much buying power. There is an excellent XL vet not far away who will be doing our TB testing in the spring, it might soon be time to change ?
 

bovine

Member
Location
North
I get pi$$ed of with the amount of air you get in Orbeseal tubes.
I was told it allows expansion and contraction with changes in temperature (when in the tube).

They are weighed so you expect the air.

They are both 2.6g.

I've squirted both onto a plate next to each other and they look the same and have exactly the same consistency.
 

O'Reilly

Member
I'm sure orbeseal gets thicker if you keep it a while. Apparently there is 4g in an orbeseal tube, but only 2.6g in the others. With the air, I try and slowly strip down the teat to expel any air or milk still in the teat, and ensure that the seal sits at the bottom. I expect that's against protocol too, but I get more seal come out at the first milking that way. Don't double tube any more, as the antibiotic is difficult to push up out of the way, and interferes with the plug formation too, so its one or the other now.
 

multi power

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
I was told it allows expansion and contraction with changes in temperature (when in the tube).

They are weighed so you expect the air.

They are both 2.6g.

I've squirted both onto a plate next to each other and they look the same and have exactly the same consistency.
Cepralock is easier to strip out than orbereal
 

bovine

Member
Location
North
I'm sure orbeseal gets thicker if you keep it a while. Apparently there is 4g in an orbeseal tube, but only 2.6g in the others.

Orbeseal is an off-white smooth paste, presented in syringes each containing 4 g intramammary suspension containing 65% bismuth subnitrate and the excipients liquid paraffin, aluminium di-tri stearate and colloidal anhydrous silica.

Cepralock - Each 4 g intramammary syringe contains:Active substance:Bismuth subnitrate, heavy 2.6 g

Boviseal - Each 4g intramammary syringe contains: Active substance: Bismuth subnitrate, heavy 2.6g

Noroseal - Each 4 g intramammary syringe contains:Active substance:Bismuth subnitrate, heavy 2.6 g​

65% of 4g is 2.6g. They are all the same.
 

jade35

Member
Location
S E Cornwall
I get pi$$ed of with the amount of air you get in Orbeseal tubes.


Our vet told us to stand (and store) all the tubes of Orbeseal with the nozzle pointing upwards in the box so that the product settles at the bottom of the tube and it is then easier to remove the air just before you insert the tube. Of course it is not quite so easy to judge when you have expelled all the air from the tube:oops:

Why the company cannot produce the small boxes with this already done is an interesting question:rolleyes::banghead:
 

O'Reilly

Member
Orbeseal is an off-white smooth paste, presented in syringes each containing 4 g intramammary suspension containing 65% bismuth subnitrate and the excipients liquid paraffin, aluminium di-tri stearate and colloidal anhydrous silica.

Cepralock - Each 4 g intramammary syringe contains:Active substance:Bismuth subnitrate, heavy 2.6 g

Boviseal - Each 4g intramammary syringe contains: Active substance: Bismuth subnitrate, heavy 2.6g

Noroseal - Each 4 g intramammary syringe contains:Active substance:Bismuth subnitrate, heavy 2.6 g​

65% of 4g is 2.6g. They are all the same.
I stand corrected, now I've got to have the same conversation with my vet.
 

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