Narrow tyres or normal tyres

spindle

Member
Location
Hertford
I run 10/12psi on the rear, but mine are GoodYear radials, grip like something else. When I swapped from x ply to radial the traction difference was very significant...
What type of Goodyear's are you running? I have got the chance of some Brand new Good year Dyna torque 13.6-28 I plough on 12" furrows so I hope I will get away with the extra width, the tyres seem too good to turn down as they have an open centre tred pattern and should clean well I hope :scratchhead:
 

spindle

Member
Location
Hertford
Radials seem to clean well but beware using tubeless on older tractors because the rims are often not in the best condition and you will be forever pumping them up. I had a battle with mine and tried Slime sealant applied to the beads with little success but then got some pink coloured tubeless sealant made for badly corroded alloys and this has worked wonders. You have to push the tyres off at the bead and apply generously with a spatula or small scraper. I use my diff lock very frequently to reduce surface disruption and think it is the biggest asset with light tractors.
Returning to tyre width, I have watched a ploughmen using rowcrop narrow wheels and they pull as well as anything under normal conditions but there is an obvious disadvantage in very soft ground
I had wondered that Bob would a row crop tyre be a disadvantage on your penultimate furrow with the wheeling that is left, it should be as close to the surface as possible ?
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
I had wondered that Bob would a row crop tyre be a disadvantage on your penultimate furrow with the wheeling that is left, it should be as close to the surface as possible ?
I would not use them for preference for a whole variety of reasons. I use 10-28, the old Fergie size, but some would argue that the larger 11-28 are better. I talk in old measurements, these are now 11.2-28 and 12.4-28 I think.
 

rick_vandal

Member
Location
Soft South
Aside, saw a bloke with a tall MF65 on 32" pulling a cooking Ransomes and poor penetration on sand(?) Lower links were running uphill so was it pulling the plough out of the ground? RSLD has multiple hitch points as did TS82 reversible, any thoughts?
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Aside, saw a bloke with a tall MF65 on 32" pulling a cooking Ransomes and poor penetration on sand(?) Lower links were running uphill so was it pulling the plough out of the ground? RSLD has multiple hitch points as did TS82 reversible, any thoughts?
IH275 has alternative pins on the tractor end. I use the lower pins and along with my 10" tyres I have a very slight uphill pull and never experienced problems with penetration and no need to resort to a silly short top link..
 
What type of Goodyear's are you running? I have got the chance of some Brand new Good year Dyna torque 13.6-28 I plough on 12" furrows so I hope I will get away with the extra width, the tyres seem too good to turn down as they have an open centre tred pattern and should clean well I hope :scratchhead:
Can't remember now, I think they're traction sure grip or something like that...or maybe super traction...I don't think you can get them anymore, mine came direct from GY.

You need to be careful with the width, I think any thing over 12.4's and you may start to have a problem when you're trying to finish, and its also pretty wide to fir in the furrow bottom. Worth a punt if they're cheap though...
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
IH275 has alternative pins on the tractor end. I use the lower pins and along with my 10" tyres I have a very slight uphill pull and never experienced problems with penetration and no need to resort to a silly short top link..

The shares are the crux of things when ploughing and should always be good enough to penetrate so that you are fighting the plough out of the ground rather than fighting it in. Lower links running down toward the plough will give a degree of weight transfer.

Whatever width of tyre you elect to have, then make sure that the tread bars are of a uniform width and do not get wider closer to centre. Hiding to nothing these and good for little other than road work.

Make sure that the plough is in tip top shape, the tractor (including the tyres) is up to the job in hand, then the rest is relatively easy.
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Can't remember now, I think they're traction sure grip or something like that...or maybe super traction...I don't think you can get them anymore, mine came direct from GY.

You need to be careful with the width, I think any thing over 12.4's and you may start to have a problem when you're trying to finish, and its also pretty wide to fir in the furrow bottom. Worth a punt if they're cheap though...

Traction sure grip (with the diamonds on) 12.4 11 x 28's available brand new at British Rubber, Baildon.
Just put a set on my 35. Have Agribibs with tubes in on the Brown and it never fails to grip.
 
Traction sure grip (with the diamonds on) 12.4 11 x 28's available brand new at British Rubber, Baildon.
Just put a set on my 35. Have Agribibs with tubes in on the Brown and it never fails to grip.
No diamonds on mine, aren't they the old crossply ones that GY have just done a production re-run on? Mine are radials, I'll have to have look...
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
What type of Goodyear's are you running? I have got the chance of some Brand new Good year Dyna torque 13.6-28 I plough on 12" furrows so I hope I will get away with the extra width, the tyres seem too good to turn down as they have an open centre tred pattern and should clean well I hope :scratchhead:
Width of furrow has no bearing on the space in the open furrow for a tyre. This is solely down to the amount of push the mould board gives the slice, too much of this and you have a broken furrow. 13 6 will be too wide, some 12.4 measure 13"plus, which is too wide. On the other hand, the Michelin 12.4 32 I am using measure 11".
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
No diamonds on mine, aren't they the old crossply ones that GY have just done a production re-run on? Mine are radials, I'll have to have look...

Yes they are Charlie, but filled with dihydrogen monoxide they should be fine. All depends on the combined weight of the 35 and RSLD No9

The Agribibs on the Brown are radials but as I said earlier I have tubes in them which helps to minimise the ovality by having a stiffer sidewall.
 
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rick_vandal

Member
Location
Soft South
Consider a horse plough where the point of draught is 5' at the collar where the horse 'pushes' the plough. Consider also a BMC Mini with multiple front link arm points, so is putting scrap metal on the plough the right answer?
 
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arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Consider a horse plough where the point of draught is 5" at the collar where the horse 'pushes' the plough. Consider also a BMC Mini with multiple front link arm points, so is putting scrap metal on the plough the right answer?
There is no comparison between the geometry and associated forces between a horse plough and a mounted tractor plough. From what I have seen the BMC Mini won`t operate without a high position on the lower links because the ploughs commonly used with these tractors were designed for tractors with 28" wheels and thus had higher cross shaft and therefore hitch points. Two wrongs don`t make a right.
 

rick_vandal

Member
Location
Soft South
There is no comparison between the geometry and associated forces between a horse plough and a mounted tractor plough. From what I have seen the BMC Mini won`t operate without a high position on the lower links because the ploughs commonly used with these tractors were designed for tractors with 28" wheels and thus had higher cross shaft and therefore hitch points. Two wrongs don`t make a right.
There is no comparison between the geometry and associated forces between a horse plough and a mounted tractor plough. From what I have seen the BMC Mini won`t operate without a high position on the lower links because the ploughs commonly used with these tractors were designed for tractors with 28" wheels and thus had higher cross shaft and therefore hitch points. Two wrongs don`t make a right.
Anybody driven a Belarus? Rumour has it that they have powered descend.
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Anybody driven a Belarus? Rumour has it that they have powered descend.

Think it's safe to say we can all rest assured that your insurance premiums will not change in the foreseeable or even distant future rick.
Information on the chains you use to push your horse plough would also be welcome or even an eye opener!
 

rick_vandal

Member
Location
Soft South
Think it's safe to say we can all rest assured that your insurance premiums will not change in the foreseeable or even distant future rick.
Information on the chains you use to push your horse plough would also be welcome or even an eye opener!
Every horse I have seen had a collar round it's neck to push against, never seen one with a rope on it's tail. Early tractors pulled adapted horse ploughs using a chain until they got a reverse gear, then the solid drawbar was used. Ferguson's diverging lower links and cranked cross-shaft was clever inasmuch as it didn't just compensate for the tractor tilt, but suffered zero torque reaction under draught force. As an optional extra, he fitted a lever to rotate the cross-shaft as a compromise to front furrow adjustment. It is valuable to appreciate plough forces and vectors, else you are ploughing by rote.
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Every horse I have seen had a collar round it's neck to push against, never seen one with a rope on it's tail. Early tractors pulled adapted horse ploughs using a chain until they got a reverse gear, then the solid drawbar was used. Ferguson's diverging lower links and cranked cross-shaft was clever inasmuch as it didn't just compensate for the tractor tilt, but suffered zero torque reaction under draught force. As an optional extra, he fitted a lever to rotate the cross-shaft as a compromise to front furrow adjustment. It is valuable to appreciate plough forces and vectors, else you are ploughing by rote.

Carry on like this Rick and your insurance will be for nowt!
 

rick_vandal

Member
Location
Soft South
Blackgrass. Any share will cut a slice and any board will invert it without the snobbery of RWM, TCN, UCN, SCN, Epic, YL, 25, etc. Anyone can drive straight theoretically, but ins/outs are a craft and working to a Finish is an art. Paraquat with direct drilling has given way to Roundup and MinTill yet we continue our spectacle and this forum is a vehicle for promotion, not buddy chat.
 

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
Blackgrass. Any share will cut a slice and any board will invert it without the snobbery of RWM, TCN, UCN, SCN, Epic, YL, 25, etc. Anyone can drive straight theoretically, but ins/outs are a craft and working to a Finish is an art. Paraquat with direct drilling has given way to Roundup and MinTill yet we continue our spectacle and this forum is a vehicle for promotion, not buddy chat.

Might be tempted to try a drop more water with it Rick!
 

rick_vandal

Member
Location
Soft South
We are museum exhibits plying an outdated craft. Quaint spectacles of bygone eras, keeping a tradition alive. Maybe the host gives us the occasional tramline but we reply with ridges and vores. On your plot, you are moving 100 tons of soil with up to a £5000 plough behind perhaps a £10000 tractor with £50 costs and transport for a £20 entry? And the rain might be tipping down too. That's enough water for me!
 

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