New holland tm 140 wiring...

[Timbo]

Yes. You are probably right. Sorry if I have confused the situation.

Odds on you have a rubbed or burnt section of harness - where it turns a sharp corner or is clamped under something- follow the harness from the dash towards the hyd filter restriction where it will be travelling with some of the side light wires....

 

[Two Tone]

Odds on you have a rubbed or burnt section of harness - where it turns a sharp corner or is clamped under something- follow the harness from the dash towards the hyd filter restriction where it will be travelling with some of the side light wires....

I’m racking my brains trying to remember exactly what happened. It was about 20 years ago on a one year old TM155.
Something kept making a fuse blow, that either stoped the engine or stopped some of the lights.

It turned out to be the wiring attached to the arm that feed power into the fan, when the engine gets warm enough to need to engage the fan.
Our dealer fixed it and it had obviously been a problem that NH had started to experience on certain other TM’s.

I remember asking to the engineer why they needed to make things so complicated and why couldn’t they have stuck with an ordinary Viscous fan.
But apparently, having gone back to that idea, some flew apart and ended up with the fan going through the rad!

Years later I drove an old TM190 that the fan was locked onto the water pump pulley to prevent that happening.
Its engine never really warmed up properly and the noise of rushing air was excessive

 

[tomildinio]

Won’t be a bad earth, that would be high resistance so no current will flow. You have a short circuit, either a wire touching the tractor frame, or wires melted together. Are u sure that the sidelights should be a 20A fuse? I would have thought a 10Amwas enough. A 20A just means you are making The problem worse, as there is more heat generated before the fuse blows, melting wires even more.
U really need a multimeter and a wiring diagram to diagnose the issue, but as said above the back of the fuse box is a likely spot.

would be worthwhile buying a few resettable fuses to diagnose the fault.

20A Resettable Circuit Breaker ATC Standard Blade

20A manual reset circuit breaker suitable for inserting directly into an ATC standard blade fuse slot for car, motorbike, truck, boat and marine applications. Manual reset Voltage rating: 28VDC Housing material: UL94V-0 thermoplastic Dimensions: 36.3 x 21 x 11.8mm (Height x Width x Thickness)

www.switchelectronics.co.uk

20amp is what it says it wants. I know that the work lights relays work off that fuse too so I guess that's why it's 20amp.

 

[tomildinio]

Right. Had a root around following wires and found a hydraulic pipe sitting on a loom and it melted. Had a wiggle of it and now whole tractor gone haywire. Thinks its in creeper box. (Maybe it has one). Lights on and off everywhere. Drops out of gear. Won't move.

It's the loom about a foot behind the plug for the trailer socket.

 

[Timbo]

Right. Had a root around following wires and found a hydraulic pipe sitting on a loom and it melted. Had a wiggle of it and now whole tractor gone haywire. Thinks its in creeper box. (Maybe it has one). Lights on and off everywhere. Drops out of gear. Won't move.

It's the loom about a foot behind the plug for the trailer socket.

You'll need to strip the loom back either side and repair / splice in new, solder and heatshrink then re cover the loom.

Id disconnect the battery until then.

 

[fermerboy]

Won’t be a bad earth, that would be high resistance so no current will flow. You have a short circuit, either a wire touching the tractor frame, or wires melted together. Are u sure that the sidelights should be a 20A fuse? I would have thought a 10Amwas enough. A 20A just means you are making The problem worse, as there is more heat generated before the fuse blows, melting wires even more.
U really need a multimeter and a wiring diagram to diagnose the issue, but as said above the back of the fuse box is a likely spot.

would be worthwhile buying a few resettable fuses to diagnose the fault.

20A Resettable Circuit Breaker ATC Standard Blade

20A manual reset circuit breaker suitable for inserting directly into an ATC standard blade fuse slot for car, motorbike, truck, boat and marine applications. Manual reset Voltage rating: 28VDC Housing material: UL94V-0 thermoplastic Dimensions: 36.3 x 21 x 11.8mm (Height x Width x Thickness)

www.switchelectronics.co.uk

Never knew you could get a resettable 12v fuse. Every day is a school day.
Away to purchase.

 

[tomildinio]

Me neither. Bought a set yesterday

 

[tomildinio]

The devil himself did that.

 

[Timbo]

The devil himself did that.

Cut one at time, stagger the joints where you can and take time with the right materials. Be as good as new.

 

[fermerboy]

The devil himself did that.

That will fix ok with some wire, solder, heat shrink tube.
Bloody lucky it didn't go up in flames.

 

[tomildinio]

Solder connectors. The plastic shrinks under the heat and then the solder band melts over the wire connection. Some job.