Rediscing a Horsch Joker

[radar]

Got a Joker whose front discs are nearly "notchless" and especially for hard ground need replacing . Can I assume the bearings will last a redisc or should I consider a replacement?

 

[benferg]

You might replace the od bearing but if this is your first redisc I’d expect no problems.

just the same as any other multi disc really.

always good to have a couple of bearings on the shelf then you shouldn’t need them

 

[Matt L]

They use twin taper bearings. Same as 4x4 wheel bearings. Much better than some of the competition which use ball bearings in a race.
will easily last two or three re discs depending on conditions.

 

[fred.950]

I put four sets on our joker and never needed to touch a bearing!

 

[radar]

I put four sets on our joker and never needed to touch a bearing!

Haven't put a spanner on the bolts yet but question - are they very tight ie lock tight, and is a normal socket sufficient or do I need some extra oomph, and I suppose the bolts need replacing?

 

[dirty harry]

Watching this with interest as will have the same job next winter on ours!
Will you use genuine horsch discs or aftermarket ones?
cheers dh

 

[fred.950]

Haven't put a spanner on the bolts yet but question - are they very tight ie lock tight, and is a normal socket sufficient or do I need some extra oomph, and I suppose the bolts need replacing?

I used an impact socket on a short breaker bar so they aren’t overly tight, the key is having the correct size lump of wood to wedge the disc. You can use an impact wrench on every other disc which speeds things up!

 

[radar]

Watching this with interest as will have the same job next winter on ours!
Will you use genuine horsch discs or aftermarket ones?
cheers dh

Haven't explored prices yet, but would go for genuine unless prices are silly more.

 

[Matt L]

Genuine are hardened on one side so they stay sharper for longer.

 

[Agricast]

Genuine are hardened on one side so they stay sharper for longer.

Would be interested to know who told you that?

Well made discs (after market or genuine) usually have a hardness differential from the centre to the edge but not one side to the other. The way they are formed, heat treated and quenched makes it very difficult to achieve different hardness levels each side of a 6mm thick blade.

 

[Matt L]

The HORSCH factory!

 

[Agricast]

 

[Gerbert]

I was after some straight discs a while ago and got led to alibaba. Anyone ever buy wearing parts from there? For the price it might be worth a try.

 

[Flatlander]

I re discoed my joker this past spring. The bolts are tight but not to the extent you’ll be breaking anything. They come with sealant on then to stop them working loose. I bought a more compact impact to get the bolts out as the distance between isn’t enough the one I had. Spin the disc before you change them. If the bearing is loose or rough turning they will need changing. New style are tapered bearing and last really well. Older style are double row ball bearing and nothing special about them. The oil seal is a duo cone style in the older version. Don’t overfill with oil reassembling them or the plastic cap won’t go in correctly. I went with aftermarket disc. Horsch discs were same price but in my soil if the trash is wet it will wrap around the disc in the knotch and ride the unit out of the ground. I went to ones called stickleback. Self sharpening and cut very good. Only down side is the rear row don’t pull the trash thru as good as knotched at 12-13 mph but at 10 it’s fine.

 

[radar]

As I think (hope) my bearings are OK I've gone down the redisc with genuine disc route. Did ponder (briefly) whether a replacement was an option, but could redisc 8 times for the price of a shiny new one!