Removing radiator from Yanmar mini digger

[Denton35]

Hi, I am trying to get help my dad.
He recently bought an old Yanmar mini digger/excavator but needs to change one of the core plugs/freeze plugs(middle core) behind fuel pump. The thing is he can't get access to the middle plug because of the radiator is in the way. He has tried taking the radiator out but it just wont come out!

My question is: has anyone had a similar problem with these machines and does it have to come out a certain way?

Sorry I don't know the exact model of the digger but it looks like this one

 

[Tonym]

I have a1.5 tonne Komatsu and find they are buggers to work on. You cannot even replace the fan belt as the altenator is behind the engine. Easiest way is remove the unit as it sits on a subframe. A few hydraulic pipes and wires four bolts and lift the unit out.

 

[essexpete]

Have you tried removing the dark grey swing guards at the rear and possibly the bulkhead plate behind the seat? Never had the rad out of ours but had to strip quite a lot to change a hose IIRR.

 

[brynseiri]

Could the plug be changed if you took the fuel pump off? Yanmar TNF/TNV series engines are easy to do this.

 

[banjo]

Have you tried some rad weld, if the hole is small it might block it up, it worked on our old zetor for years, bodge though!

 

[Mursal]

Yes as above and consider Isopon P40 (chopped fibre glass) clean the plug well with a degreaser and score it with a blade so the Isopon stuff will bond well. It will let you use the digger and change the plug when it suits you (a wet day). Just keep a good eye on the coolant level when working it hard. We don't use Radweld we use ground ginger ................

PS by the sound of it @Denton35 you're not into diggers, yet?

 

[Sagamore1]

Hi, Dont know if you solved your problem or not buy I had exactly the same issue with my old Yamnar B17-1 and there are two ways you can do it. The frost plug i had to change was the one behind the fuel pump which meant moving the radiator fan etc, front engine cover, cam and idler gears, fuel pump and second front engine cover, replace the frost plug with a $4 part and then put it all back and retime it. Also had an issue with a can follower because i had to remove the cam which meant taking the head off. So all in all a rather trying and time consuming exercise. However, if you just want to get the radiator out and remove the water pump there are two ways to do it. The book way (hard way) and the easy way that maybe some of you wont like.

The hard way is to takeoff a hell of a lot of stuff to be able to get to the back bolts on the radiator mounting frame. You can remove the seat and inspection panels and get to the bolts that way if you have long skinny arms (which i dont) or you can removed the bash plate under the radiator and use a ring spanner and ratchet but be warned you will loose a lot of bark off your knuckles and wrist and they are a bugger to get back in that way. If you need more details let me know and I can give you a more detailed description. You also have to removed the fan cowling while in the machine and that in itself is a mission.

The other way, which i used, was to use a small angle grinder to cut out the panel to the front of the radiator grill. The shape of the cut is important and it obvious where you should cut the side of the machine behind the hydraulic tank but still retain the strength of the structure. If you leave a lip about 20mm wide you can weld a piece of flat bar on the outside of the cut piece, drill 4 holes in the flat and bolt the removed piece back into place when you are done. Once you have removed the piece you have easy access with a socket although to get to the bolt furthest away you will have to use a long extension and a universal joint on the socket. A lick of paint on the removed piece before you bolt it on and it looks factory fitted. Makes getting the radiator and all the other bits on and off a breeze without hurting the way the machine behaves and keeps its strength. Be warned the side of the engine bay has twin steel skins for most of it but the bottom 100mm or so is triple skinned so you can use a lot of grinding disc cutting it. I wouldn't recommend a large grinder as you want to stay well away from the radiator itself and it is easy to pop through the back layers of steel before you know you are on it. It also pays to unbolt the engine cover and remove it completely. 2 second job with a 14mm socket.

When i get a chance I am going to drill or slot the piece i cut out to allow more airflow from the engine bay.

Not the most elegant of solutions but I can rip the radiator out of mine if i need to in about 10 minutes if i take my time and get it back in almost as quickly, and that includes the time to remove the fan belt and hoses etc.

If you need any more info let me know.

cheers