Renault Tractor

[ScruffyB1]

Hi everyone.
I am new to the forum, this is my first post. I live in Brittany. France in the middle of nowhere and keep a few sheep and poultry for my own larder. I also grow my own veg and have a Renault vine tractor, type R7255 1970 to work my plot. Does anyone have any knowledge of this tractor. The rear wheels bolt onto a disc which is bolted onto the hub. I am wondering if it is possible to swap rear wheels round ie, putting the right rear wheel onto the left hub and visa versa in order to make the rear wheels wider apart to increase the stability. Thanking in advance for any help.

 

[Exfarmer]

i do not know this particular tractor but most were built in a similar way with regards to the wheel structure.
you can alter wheel width both by turning wheels round and by utilising the outer rim bolts tochange dimensions.
If you just do a straight swap the treads will be facing the wrong way. Much of the time this will make little odds for most work. However it will encourage the cleats to fill with mud and both lose traction and carry more mud our of fields onto roads..
also be aware that running tractors at wide settings increases the strains on the rear axle and bearings if carrying loads.
You will probably be able to extend the front axle if 2wheel drive by extending the beam and steering rods

 

[ScruffyB1]

Hi and thanks for your reply. If I take the right wheel, turn it 180 degrees and put it on the left side the tread will be the right way. This will also put the dish of the wheel rim to the outside making for the stability I am looking after. The only problem albeit slight is that the air valve will be on the inside. Sally can blow the tyres up ha ha. I have a 2 ploughshare plough and a Canadienne (harrow in English) and a rotavator so not a lot of heavy work.

 

[Exfarmer]

The plough may be an issue. You may struggle to get the right front furrow width. Most ploughs are built for a limited range of wheel widths and it would be best to get the tractor set to that width.
Of course you may get to like the sport of tractor wheel changing. If you have a good jack and a nut runner it is not that big a job, but if you are changing both sides at once, do get some good axle stands!
also if you are using the tractor for ploughing, it as absolutely critical that the front wheel widths match the back!

 

[ScruffyB1]

Good point, I had forgotten about that. I did actually try to change the wheels round but I do not have the tackle to get the torque to loosen all the bolts. Two of the bolts have like rivets heads and the nuts are bigger by about 1mm. I will take the tractor to the local tractor repair man and ask him to change them round whilst Sally and I go for a beer.
How do I edit my profile?

 

[Kevm]

Are the wheel stud holes chamfered (countersunk) on the outside.

 

[ScruffyB1]

No. Square holes. I am wondering if the rivet type bolt heads are original and the rest have been replaced over the years with off the shelf nuts and bolts. The holes in the rims are square and in the disc they are round. No countersinking.

 

[ScruffyB1]

I have attached a photo of the n/s rear wheel. I am assuming the offset brackets are there so the wheel can be turned and put on the opposite side. Sorry to appear a bit dense but I am new to farm tractors but more used to making half size steam engines. Two of the bolts on the offset brackets have a dome head and I assume a square on the shank.

 

[Exfarmer]

All the bolts should be a hardened coach bolt style. Do make sure you get the correct ones as the squre head must noyt extend to far and they must be hard. The rim holes will not be countersunk but the centre holes holes should be.
be careful if you reverse the dish that the centre holes are countersunk both sides. Otherwise you must not reverse them