Same row crop 90 issues

Gonecrazyi

New Member
I new to the forum and I have a few questions regarding a same 1000.4at
Engine that I have in a tractor.

I bought the tractor running but the turbi shaft was broken in half and tractor constantly smokes and pops hard out of the exhaust.

It will idle and constantly puffs smoke. If you rev it up above idle it pops and pours even more. Someone had been in the timing cover so I pulled it off and noticed there are not any Mark's to line the cam and crank gear to the intermediate gear. I marked everything and moved the cam gear a tooth at a time each direction but couldn't get the pop or smoke to clear up.

I've look for a manual but they are a bit hard to come by over hear in the US.

Had anyone seen this before?

Any advice or instructions for timing it?
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
They will be marked but you can set them up with dti on cam follower and set crank with no1 at TDC.

You’ve replaced the turbo? Mechanical or electronic governor?

If it’s running rough and popping either you have fuel delivery issues (have you been through all fuel lines, glass bowl, banjo bolts, filter in lift pump and main filter), valve or valve clearance issues or the injector pumps need shimming up/adjusting. You will need a heat probe to stick through the bolt holes under the exhaust manifold for this.

Is it air or liquid cooled? Tier 2 will be liquid cooled here in Europe and will have a cold start setup that if not used will smoke badly for few minutes.
 

Gonecrazyi

New Member
It's an air cooled model. Mechanical governor.

I've played around with the valve adjustments and that didnt help really change anything. I'll double check the fuel filter and see what it looks like. But it appears to have good flow and primes right up.

How do you shim the injection pumps?
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
It's an air cooled model. Mechanical governor.

I've played around with the valve adjustments and that didnt help really change anything. I'll double check the fuel filter and see what it looks like. But it appears to have good flow and primes right up.

How do you shim the injection pumps?

Has it been over revved down hill? Have you ran it with rocker covers off? Sticking valve or bent pushrod?

The injector pumps are shimmed to the block to set the distance from the cam shaft. If the paint is still on the nuts etc then leave well alone as they should be ok
 

Gonecrazyi

New Member
I bought the tractor running worse than it does now. I'm not sure the history of it. Supposedly it was running fine then started acting up and popping.

All of the injection pumps have been removed or adjusted before I got it. I'm sure non of them are in spec. I have pulled the valve covers and ran the engine, all the valves appear to be working and moving properly.

It could very well be a sticking valve. When you start it it has a pop but it gets really loud when you rev it up. The puff of smokes suggests its 1 cylinder that's the culprit.
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
Can you narrow it down to which cylinder by slacking injector pipes. You will need a manual to set up the pumps and a good knowledge of fuel pump racks and governors, if the rack sticks and goes to excess fuel then you’ll have a nice new inspection hole in the side of the block, roughly where the turbo feed and return oil pipes are!!!
 
The fuel pumps run on the normal camshaft and the timing is critical . Most have no timing marks on gears and have to be set with dial gauge on the cam and the piston .
Even you mark the gears before dismantling the cam gear has slotted holes !! This makes it difficult for people used to a normal rotary fuel pump .


.
 

Gonecrazyi

New Member
I'm used to normal rotary style pumps. I didnt notice any slots in the cam gear. It looks like it has an offset bolt that only allows the gear to go on in one position.

I havent been able to figure out which cylinder is the issue.

I guess I'm going to have to try and find a manual and a dial gauge. It's just hard to see it being so complicated to time a diesel engine. I guess I've gotten spoiled on all the newer style ones that are all marked
 
I'm used to normal rotary style pumps. I didnt notice any slots in the cam gear. It looks like it has an offset bolt that only allows the gear to go on in one position.

I havent been able to figure out which cylinder is the issue.

I guess I'm going to have to try and find a manual and a dial gauge. It's just hard to see it being so complicated to time a diesel engine. I guess I've gotten spoiled on all the newer style ones that are all marked
They might not be slots but the gear has larger holes.which allows adjustment.
 

Gonecrazyi

New Member
Alright. I'll take a look at that and double check the valve adjustments on it.

Sounds like I really need the manual to start ruling things out.
The popping is kind of strange as its gets way worse when its revved up.
 

Flat 10

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fen Edge
Also, I havent fixed the turbo. It was pulled off and the feed and drain ports were blocked off before I got it.
Surely you need to replace this before you mess about with anything else? The engine will be fuelled and set up for a turbo so will likely not run right?
 

GFA

Member
Location
FIFE
I would start with replacing the turbo I had a deutz engine that the turbo sheared the shaft between the impellors so i removed air intake pipe to get the tractor driven off the road it hardly had any power just to drive a few hundred yards and was running ruff and lots of grey smoke
 

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