Hilly
Member
- Location
- Scottish Borders.
Cheers what model do you have ?Bobcat here you can see anytime
Cheers what model do you have ?Bobcat here you can see anytime
Looking secondhand the robots look like only ones i could justify anyway
Be a big (183kg) operating weight difference, I had a 160 and some things were on heavy side swapped to a 190 and it handles them no botherIs there much difference between a 135 jcb and a 175? They look similar size. Looking something for running a sawdust bedder on and the jcb looks like the one you’d have less chance of injury mounting and dismounting
So physically they are the same size just bigger load capacity ? How long have you been working with jcb robots? Had much trouble with them?Be a big (183kg) operating weight difference, I had a 160 and some things were on heavy side swapped to a 190 and it handles them no bother
8 years, oil leaks and a park brake sensor that broke so wouldn't release the brake. Not a massive user but use it to feed and bed cattle in winter and lift and shift anything throughout the yearSo physically they are the same size just bigger load capacity ? How long have you been working with jcb robots? Had much trouble with them?
S530 turboCheers what model do you have ?
6ft tractor bucket on adapter plate digging out bedding muckBe a big (183kg) operating weight difference, I had a 160 and some things were on heavy side swapped to a 190 and it handles them no bother
Is there much difference between a 135 jcb and a 175? They look similar size. Looking something for running a sawdust bedder on and the jcb looks like the one you’d have less chance of injury mounting and dismounting
There’s nothing wrong with the basic ones. I have two that are now twenty two years old and one over and one just under 7000 hours. As it happens one of them just had a new starter this morning. Not a CNH part because genuine parts are extortionately priced. They have added all kinds of emission equipment on the latest models and most have electronic easy-to-use hand controls, all of which add complexity that can and will incur more expensive repair costs in future. Bobcat used to be bad for complex electrics but everyone is at it now and you can’t get away from the heaps of emissions stuff crammed around the engine.Whats wrong with newhollands ?
The emissions crap has added a ridiculous amount of complication to these machines. The running cost of modern ones must be near impossible to justify once out of warranty. I have no proof of this but just one look at the engine bay of most models is enough to sow severe anxiety and doubt about the viability of the machine long term. Its the kind of thing that makes one think that two should be bought to ensure that at least one is functional most of the time.Skidsteers for a lot of farms are actually a nightmare to own in some applications. Dirty environments and now with emissions crap its a dealer's nightmare to keep dairymen happy with some brands of machine.
Lot of times they get used for multiple short tasks then engine stopped never worked hard. Eventually creating regen issues with the dpf and egr valves. Seems to be biggest overall problem in this area
Talking to a NH rep the other day about them, controls can be electrical ( nicer to use) or mechanical ( not so light but reliable). Friend had his Manitou instead of another Case from Riverlea because the sales bloke said they are simpler with less trouble with electrics apparently.There’s nothing wrong with the basic ones. I have two that are now twenty two years old and one over and one just under 7000 hours. As it happens one of them just had a new starter this morning. Not a CNH part because genuine parts are extortionately priced. They have added all kinds of emission equipment on the latest models and most have electronic easy-to-use hand controls, all of which add complexity that can and will incur more expensive repair costs in future. Bobcat used to be bad for complex electrics but everyone is at it now and you can’t get away from the heaps of emissions stuff crammed around the engine.
As far as my own machines are concerned they have been very reliable. They have needed radiator repairs, water pumps and starter motors plus regular maintenance. The carriage pivots on one have been rebuilt, an externally mounted hydraulic pipe every few years shared between them and, bizarrely, they both had exhaust manifold studs failed last year, after both running for over twenty years with no such issue.
I have no knowledge as to whether these are any better or worse than alternatives but do know that this pair has done sterling service over more than two decades with no major issues. Touch wood!
What year did all the emissions gumf appear on the engines and can it be bypassed and rectified with a laptop?The emissions crap has added a ridiculous amount of complication to these machines. The running cost of modern ones must be near impossible to justify once out of warranty. I have no proof of this but just one look at the engine bay of most models is enough to sow severe anxiety and doubt about the viability of the machine long term. Its the kind of thing that makes one think that two should be bought to ensure that at least one is functional most of the time.
That’s not the reason I have two. It’s because they work on different farmyards several miles apart, but I do believe in self sufficiency and redundancy when it comes to essential livestock equipment. The work just cannot wait for a machine that is out of action for any length of time.
Not sure when but I did look under the bonnet of a new one, not long ago, and was shocked at the bulk of cats and DPF’s and lord knows how many sensors, cables and pipes, including common rail electronic injection compared to my comparatively simple machines. My NH rep and service man have both told me to keep changing the oil and filters on mine because the latest are not in the same reliability league. That’s not to single CNH machines out in that respect, because all brands have this stuff forced upon them by legislation. Not sure whether there is an environmental benefit of not, considering the relatively small amount of fuel these machines consume and out in the countryside mostly. On even a local scale, I suspect next to zero. Who pays the price, both in purchase and repairs? Why we do of course! [surprise surprise]What year did all the emissions gumf appear on the engines and can it be bypassed and rectified with a laptop?
Yea often wonder what the environmental impact is of making all this emissions equipment to fit to vehicles and then having to get someone out to repair it comparded to straight forward engines especially like you say small engines that don’t even use much fuel. I’d like a skid steer with a fully enclosed cab for the dusty conditions but the older simpler skid steers seem to be hard to get with one.Not sure when but I did look under the bonnet of a new one, not long ago, and was shocked at the bulk of cats and DPF’s and lord knows how many sensors, cables and pipes, including common rail electronic injection compared to my comparatively simple machines. My NH rep and service man have both told me to keep changing the oil and filters on mine because the latest are not in the same reliability league. That’s not to single CNH machines out in that respect, because all brands have this stuff forced upon them by legislation. Not sure whether there is an environmental benefit of not, considering the relatively small amount of fuel these machines consume and out in the countryside mostly. On even a local scale, I suspect next to zero. Who pays the price, both in purchase and repairs? Why we do of course! [surprise surprise]
I know there is delete software available, laptop guys in this area stay busy.What year did all the emissions gumf appear on the engines and can it be bypassed and rectified with a laptop?
Change the engine oil and filter every 150 hours maximum, grease regularly including wheel bearings (sparingly) and change hydraulic fluid and filter every 1500 maximum using 10w/30 SUTO or UTTO, or hydraulic fluid if you have some convenient. There are other fluids but apart from checking for leaks I’ve never even checked those. Coolant is best changed every four years maximum. I changed the coolant in one a couple of weeks ago due to the radiator leaking over Summer and the need for fresh coolant of the correct concentration. Added some trick leak stopper fluid at the same time. So far so good.View attachment 1153022
this is ours, good machine been tempted to swap for a newer model but few have said keep this one going I’ll have far less problems with it