Tine drills and clart

kevindb880

Member
Location
Herts
Thanks Kev, I hadn't realised that there was 3 and 4 row versions. We'd never close the slot without some form of scratch first and a days drying I don't think. All fields were baled and have fairly short stubble so hopefully not a big issue.

Edit - just checked the pics, this is a 799, 3 rows of coulters, two rows of cultivating tines in front
What are you going to pull it with?
We pull our 6m 3 row 799 with a 130hp JD, no cultivating tines!
 

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
I understand concerns about wheat with the present conditions but what about beans with a KV if the ground will travel reasonably?
J
We have some beans to go in, but they are likely to be spring beans now, the land is just too wet at depth to make a job
 

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
As said before panic buying a tine drill is not perhaps the answer. Anything at the moment is a calculated gamble, in your shoes, if the vibroflex will go straight in without blocking I would broadcast and tickle it in. It will look horrible and quite a lot will not be in the ground but some will. If you get those drying 24hrs you could always try a second pass. If you don't its at least not still in the shed and its got a 50/50 chance. The headache is then what and when to spray if it stays dry enough to get something on.
I see your point. Part of the difficulty there is if I broadcast the seed and its too wet to make a job covering it, the seed is still laid out. Not good.

I do think you're right re the 24hrs though - my gut feel is vibroflex at 3-4" deep, leave it a day or so to nap off (dry a bit) then tine drill. But I've never used one, hence the post
 

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
Our sabre tine will drill when a combi won’t, but the trouble this yr is the ground is so saturated seed just swells and blows before it has chance to grow. We’ve stopped drilling here not that our ground conditions will allow it anyway now, hope to get some more wheat in end of jan early feb if we get a dry 10days!

Aye thats the worry for sure. Crystal ball required!
 

spikeislander

Member
Location
bedfordshire
I’ve got a 8m vaderstad and a 6m ts , before it got silly wet , the vaderstad was just running so I did the middles and chap did headlands with ts , the difference in emergence is clear to see , but I think we all know the vaderstad rules for seed placement .
Then it got silly wet , I put the ts on the rx and carried on , then as we wanted to cover some acres I’ve spread it with a kv spinner and tined it in with an 8m set of kongskilde .
my ts is good but we still suffer badly with the clay soil curling around the back of the coulter and sealing it off , blocking the pipes, I wondered if others suffer the same?
I’m curious how the sabre handles wet clay?
time will tell the outcomes of all that we’ve tried.
Some is up lovely , other coming well, spun on yet to come and I’ve been putting in beans today with the ts deep .
 

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Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
A sulky (now sky) culti disc drill will drill into water. Ask @Bobthebuilder . A great and very underrated drill. . I no longer work for them but still love this drill
A friend of mine has one Rob, and drilled me some spring oats a couple of years ago. The restricting factor seems to be the narrow steel press wheels struggling to close the slot. I imagine in drier going it would sow anything into anything with the precision of a Vad Rapid
 

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
If you're going direct into stubbles you want the old kv TS points, not the newer ones.
The old ones are a curved cultivator point which will pull into the ground unlike the newer ones.
You'll also struggle a bit with penetration and springs breaking.
But it will work, you need dry enough surface to not stick to the wheels and then you really need enough dry weather after.
Personally if you have a vibroflex I'd suggest a front hopper and pipe the vibroflex up.
I used a TS for 6 years as my only drill, direct into stubble.
It got me out of trouble the first year as it was so wet, could barely drive the gator over to put pellets on. The result looked awful, resembled the Somme, but it went on to yield as one of the best crops I ever grew.

Neighbours have a TS, they decided to springtime the wet cultivated ground before using the TS, they should have just gone straight in with the TS, less is definitely better.
 

Pottersfarm

Member
Arable Farmer
Afternoon all

We have a fair lump not sown at the minute, some of it quite heavy and still stubble, some of it worked and half sown.

Tine drills seem to be top choice for some people in wet conditions, so I'm after experiences really. I know of a tine drill at sensible money, and we have a 6m vibroflex. What will tine drills cope with realistically? I know they'd cope with the bit thats been worked a while, less sure on the stubbles.

I'm thinking vibroflex, leave a day, tine drill. Its claggy old kelter, plough and combi not an option, its not kind enough land for that.

Fair old drill armoury as it is tbh, but happy to add another if its the way forward.

Currently:
4m Vaderstad rapid
3m Pottinger combi on ADD discs
3m Mzuri ProTil (normally tool of choice but its just too wet)
4m Amazone combi on suffolks (doesn't do much except companion barley pre beet now, its about knackered)
Tine drill in mind is a 6m KRM Sola

We’ve got 50ac left to plant and I’m going to pigtail it and then drill the day after with a time drill. Works well and you’ll wonder why you don’t do everything like it.
 

David.

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
J11 M40
Best thing now would be plough with press.
TS works better when into firmed seedbed, else it will stall the middle pair of wheels when wet.
 

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