TM linkage calibration

[Scania143h]

So we have a slight problem. We started today to calibrate the linkage on our TM150. The reason was that she was only lifting to 97% and we couldn't get the hitch to go down. We done the following.
Key off
Unplug the wire from that pot
Key on for a few seconds
Key off and plug the wire back in.
All dials on rhs clockwise
Quadrant (lift slider) in centre
Draft at 10
Disconnect hitch rods.
Start tractor set at 1100 rpm and move the quadrant all the way up.
But when we started the tractor to move the quadrant (slider) the arms would not lift at all. But they will still lifting using the mudguard buttons. All we done was Disconnect the potentiometer and connect it up again and now the arms don't work. Any ideas?

 

[ridger]

Did you move it down to unlock lift first?

 

[Scania143h]

Yes moved the slider up and down and still no joy. This symbol on the dash doesn't got out when you mover the slider up and down.

 

[Drillman]

Only a guess but maybe try a fresh potentiometer

 

[Laggard]

It seems to me your lift arms are "locked out" to in cab controls. Hence the mud guard controls still work. You can unlock the in cab controls by moving the lift arm slider so that it goes below position 65 making sure that the button to lift/lower the link arms is in the correct position.

 

[Kid1234]

So we have a slight problem. We started today to calibrate the linkage on our TM150. The reason was that she was only lifting to 97% and we couldn't get the hitch to go down. We done the following.
Key off
Unplug the wire from that pot
Key on for a few seconds
Key off and plug the wire back in.
All dials on rhs clockwise
Quadrant (lift slider) in centre
Draft at 10
Disconnect hitch rods.
Start tractor set at 1100 rpm and move the quadrant all the way up.
But when we started the tractor to move the quadrant (slider) the arms would not lift at all. But they will still lifting using the mudguard buttons. All we done was Disconnect the potentiometer and connect it up again and now the arms don't work. Any ideas?

 

[Kid1234]

Just wondering did u find out the problem as are 150 at the same at min

 

[Aftermaths]

Just wondering did u find out the problem as are 150 at the same at min

Best wishes with it, when our tm's linkage was acting up it turned out to be the wires for the fan had rubbed, only time I've ever needed a mechanic to it and that would definitely have been the last place I'd have looked! Sensors are on the same reference circuit apparently

 

[Badshot]

Best wishes with it, when our tm's linkage was acting up it turned out to be the wires for the fan had rubbed, only time I've ever needed a mechanic to it and that would definitely have been the last place I'd have looked! Sensors are on the same reference circuit apparently

Wires for the fan!
Cab fan?
Really?
My 150 does my nut in, it's always losing it's calibration on the linkage.

 

[melted welly]

Wires for the fan!
Cab fan?
Really?
My 150 does my nut in, it's always losing it's calibration on the linkage.

Be the viscous fan, our 140 lost all drive in middle of a field and it was a wire to viscous fan that had rubbed thru.

 

[Badshot]

Be the viscous fan, our 140 lost all drive in middle of a field and it was a wire to viscous fan that had rubbed thru.

Thank you, I'll have a good look.

 

[Drillman]

Only the later TMs had anything electrical near the fans. The earlier ones like the 135 and 150 were purely mechanical (and more reliable as well)

 

[Aftermaths]

Wires for the fan!
Cab fan?
Really?
My 150 does my nut in, it's always losing it's calibration on the linkage.

Radiator fan, right at the front! But like drillman says mine is a later 140

 

[Badshot]

Only the later TMs had anything electrical near the fans. The earlier ones like the 135 and 150 were purely mechanical (and more reliable as well)

Bugger.

Thought I'd found an answer.

 

[forblue]

You have to remember there is logic and illogical, the transmission oil cooler is kept cool by the fan as part of it's job so if it stops the tractor stops, if you are unfortunate to be in the middle of the Sahara desert when this happens, best of luck, i know my old cnh firm had a wiring loom for the 30ser that succeeded the tw's and 40 ser as a last resort to move the tractor, whether this was something that cnh supplied for tm's or later models to move them i don't know.

 

[Drillman]

Bugger.

Thought I'd found an answer.

Unplug the external linkage buttons and try it, they can play up

 

[Badshot]

Unplug the external linkage buttons and try it, they can play up

Done that.
And the lower link pins.
Dealer replaced a fair chunk of the wiring loom.
Replaced the panel with all the dials on.
Had all the multi plugs under the cab apart and sprayed with electrical cleaner.
Done the potentiometer for lift height.

Not much left to try except the computer , and that's too much to just try it.
Really need to find one I can try before I buy.

 

[del_boy]

Done that.
And the lower link pins.
Dealer replaced a fair chunk of the wiring loom.
Replaced the panel with all the dials on.
Had all the multi plugs under the cab apart and sprayed with electrical cleaner.
Done the potentiometer for lift height.

Not much left to try except the computer , and that's too much to just try it.
Really need to find one I can try before I buy.

@Combine Rescue might be able to help if its controller issue. Helped me out with an electrical problem with my tsa. It a very quick turnaround aswell

 

[Drillman]

Done that.
And the lower link pins.
Dealer replaced a fair chunk of the wiring loom.
Replaced the panel with all the dials on.
Had all the multi plugs under the cab apart and sprayed with electrical cleaner.
Done the potentiometer for lift height.

Not much left to try except the computer , and that's too much to just try it.
Really need to find one I can try before I buy.

Must admit it was a doddle wen we had a brace of TMs It always seemed to be the older one that was used as a test bed to find out what had gone wrong with the newer one though.

 

[Combine Rescue]

Viscous fan drive it run solenoid on 12v and sensor on 5v ref. The harness vibration damage cable inside plastic tube and it literally strip down the insulation. If that happen, your 5V can be short to ground or 12V. If ground than you loose all the sensors connected to this pin and you should have a lot of errors. If short to 12V then controller can burns out. Depending how much damage is done it can be repaired or scrap. Call me if you need any help.