Track rod removal tools

[smcapstick]

Sledge hammer 2 good wacks dont tickle it with a toffee hammer.
It.ll only be a little carraro one!?

Yup, the little Italian job

The biggest problem, apart from my frailty, is my acute inability to hit what I'm aiming at with a hammer. I just can't do it - my eyes are broken, you see.

 

[mo!]

Sharp smack with a smaller hammer onto the sides while applying pressure. Idea is to shock the taper loose.

 

[Cowcalf]

pneumatic chisel or hammer drill on hammer only with flat ended tool in

 

[smcapstick]

My most reliable method was always hitting the knuckle that the pin goes through. I'm VERY wary of doing it on cast parts like this, though

 

[Mur Huwcun]

My most reliable method was always hitting the knuckle that the pin goes through. I'm VERY wary of doing it on cast parts like this, though

You won't crack the hub around the TRE, two sharp blows should do it, leave the nut on incase the person on the leaverage bar accelerates across the workshop unintentionally!!!

 

[sawdust]

My most reliable method was always hitting the knuckle that the pin goes through. I'm VERY wary of doing it on cast parts like this, though

Hold (don't hit) the second hammer against the knuckle before hitting, puts more shock through the knuckle somehow

 

[pycoed]

I always used to use 2 hammers & hit the joint simultaneously which usually did the trick PDQ. Then I bought a Sykes Pickavant version of your first picture & haven't needed the 2 hammer treatment in the past 20 years. Get a good bit of strain on it then hit the puller bolt end on with a lump hammer & everything comes loose

 

[ACEngineering]

I always used to use 2 hammers & hit the joint simultaneously which usually did the trick PDQ. Then I bought a Sykes Pickavant version of your first picture & haven't needed the 2 hammer treatment in the past 20 years. Get a good bit of strain on it then hit the puller bolt end on with a lump hammer & everything comes loose

Yeah and if the puller dont fit the track rod perfectly it knackers the rubber boot

 

[stevedave]

f**kIN' HIT IT (It's in capitals cause i'm shouting)

 

[Selectamatic]

I had one simmilar to your first picture, did very well, i inherited it, it was a Sealy one and designed for car joints really, not tractors, however it took apart 10's of joints with little trouble, each time giving a very satisfying bang as it let go.

One day it was too much for it, and it gave up

I will be buying another, but next time I will be getting a bigger version.

Reccomended from me, better than smacking the life out of it, and better than those forks that fudge up the joint.

 

[tinman]

it id be very rare id have to go for anything other than the large copper hammer i use, your not hitting it hard enough in the right place whic is where has already been said, right on the face of the lug, dont be hittin the threads, you will damage them even with the nut on before you do get it off, one or two clouts if your desperate but i wouldnt do any more personally.
times id need a bar under the track rod with a bit of pressure on it and it will pop eventually.

 

[DrWazzock]

You need two hammers of equal size. Just keep on hammering simultaneously round the outside of the socket in which the taper is located, making sure the hammers strike opposing sides at the same time. No need to belt it. This will effectively increase the size of the hole causing the pin to loosen. OK on forged arms, maybe risk of cracking a cast arm. Never found the tapered chisels to be any use at all other than at knackering the rubber seals. A bit of gentle heat can help as well. Sometimes getting another nut on it to make a lock nut and trying to rotate it back and forth can help, or mole grips on the straight bit if the seal has already gone.

 

[smcapstick]

It's cast. As I said earlier, I'm very wary of attacking cast parts, as I broke one years ago and it was a damn fortune.

I didn't have time to work on it today. Monday is the day - I WILL prevail!

 

[DrWazzock]

Good luck. Main thing is to knock it about from as many different angles as possible, but don't overdo it. Hope you soaked it in diesel before you went home.

But don't blame yourself if it destroys itself. Some things just seem destined to end up like that, despite the best will in the world.

Just remembered, try resting a heavy weight (sledge hammer) on the end of the thread with the nut level with the thread to prevent mushrooming then knock the socket up towards the weight with a punch going all the way round the socket, if you can get at it. This avoids losing impact in the springiness of the arm.

 

[smcapstick]

Good luck. Main thing is to knock it about from as many different angles as possible, but don't overdo it. Hope you soaked it in diesel before you went home.

But don't blame yourself if it destroys itself. Some things just seem destined to end up like that, despite the best will in the world.

Just remembered, try resting a heavy weight (sledge hammer) on the end of the thread with the nut level with the thread to prevent mushrooming then knock the socket up towards the weight with a punch going all the way round the socket, if you can get at it. This avoids losing impact in the springiness of the arm.

I do tend to be over-careful, to the extent that some jobs take twice as long as they aught to. It's very rare I break something, though, so costs are always minimal.

 

[Land Rover]

I have the first one pictured , but it's too small for a tractor .
If it needs to go up I'd put a jack under it and then belt the tapered boss that the rod end is jammed in , proper skelp with a sledge or big hammer .
If it's to go down I'd put a 6ft pinch bar or scaffold bar levering it down , leave the nut on the end of the threads , have someone stand on the bar or more usually I'd be on my own and I'd stand or sit on the bar , and like before a proper skelp on the boss . Make sure the nut is on so you don't fall to the ground when it goes .
The local marina tried all day to get one off a Case with bottle jacks and wd40 . Using the above I had it off in 2 mins .
Ok, the tractor can only trun left now ....but it was off

 

[Right-arm fast]

I use 10t bearing pullers, leave the nut on, put as much pressure as you can on the taper leave it for 2 / 3 mins. If it doesn't pop off go back and try and get more pressure.Then leave it again. If it doesn't budge after 5 mins under pressure get an electric paint stripper and gently warm the casting around the circumference. Never failed yet. You do need to leave the nut on as it goes with a bang if it's really tight. You have to make sure the pullers square and well secured too.

 

[ACEngineering]

Some of you lot are making a mounting out of a mole hill here

 

[smcapstick]

I still haven't been back to it, either!

Tomorrow's the day

 

[bigg6480]

Some of you lot are making a mounting out of a mole hill here

I'm guessing if the manitous you look after are anything like ares you do a lot of track rod ends?