Vacuum tanker pump oil, is this normal?

[Cowabunga]

Had dealers out this morning, wiped it all clean and watched it working, no oil from the back end and small drops out of the exhaust... Put it down to being overly full from new..

Using it now and it's doing it again, sure the front stuff is from the exhaust but the rear seems to be coming from the seam where the casing goes onto the back of the pump
Another phone call now...

I've filled it right to the top once or twice and never had it leak. The level isn't critical as far as I can see. Not unless it runs short of course.
Have a look at the dipstick. The oil in it should not be black. It should be clean. The oil in the picture appears to be black, possibly indicating overheated exhaust oil.

Your dealer will soon get it sorted, no doubt. Remember not to overoil. Not to over rev. Not to run the pump dead-ended to the extent that it heats up.

 

[ColinV6]

I've filled it right to the top once or twice and never had it leak. The level isn't critical as far as I can see. Not unless it runs short of course.
Have a look at the dipstick. The oil in it should not be black. It should be clean. The oil in the picture appears to be black, possibly indicating overheated exhaust oil.

Your dealer will soon get it sorted, no doubt. Remember not to overoil. Not to over rev. Not to run the pump dead-ended to the extent that it heats up.

Extremely helpful and knowledgable people on here thanks for the advice, the oil on the dipstick was very clean, but the stuff on the rear casing is also pretty clean, I've discovered this morning that it actually fills fine at 900 tractor revs, which I think was about 180pto lol.

One more thing, why are vacuum tanker so fussy when you turn even a very slight angle??

 

[multi power]

Extremely helpful and knowledgable people on here thanks for the advice, the oil on the dipstick was very clean, but the stuff on the rear casing is also pretty clean, I've discovered this morning that it actually fills fine at 900 tractor revs, which I think was about 180pto lol.

One more thing, why are vacuum tanker so fussy when you turn even a very slight angle??

The yokes on the shaft will be quite small. A bigger shaft you can get away with much more angle

 

[Cowabunga]

Extremely helpful and knowledgable people on here thanks for the advice, the oil on the dipstick was very clean, but the stuff on the rear casing is also pretty clean, I've discovered this morning that it actually fills fine at 900 tractor revs, which I think was about 180pto lol.

One more thing, why are vacuum tanker so fussy when you turn even a very slight angle??

The yokes on the shaft will be quite small. A bigger shaft you can get away with much more angle

Its not that. It is because on an auto-hitch, only the front yolk bends, which means that due to the geometry, the shaft speeds up and slows down as it spins, hence if you fill with the tractor not straight you will hear the pump alter speed up and down.

The second critical point is that the shaft isn't level, which is where it really gets out of phase. They are not meant to bend in two planes and to avoid that, prop shafts for instance, have the universal joints at different rotational angles fixed to the shaft to counteract the out of phase forces.

When your tanker shaft is running out of line in two directions it has very little angle tolerance. It will put severe stress on the front joint and will soon break the shear bolt. Also, with time, the stress will show up as fatigue in the lemon tube near the front joint and it will break. It should last years though, so don't panic.

 

[davedb]

the jurop pump on my abbey tanker has got 2 oilers but they havent got an adjustable screw on top so the oiling is fixed, it over oils massively and the previous owner has fitted one screw type oiler but left the other original one one what should control the oil on these pumps? i keep meaning to just put another ordinary adjustable oiler on but wounder what it should be like?

 

[Cowabunga]

the jurop pump on my abbey tanker has got 2 oilers but they havent got an adjustable screw on top so the oiling is fixed, it over oils massively and the previous owner has fitted one screw type oiler but left the other original one one what should control the oil on these pumps? i keep meaning to just put another ordinary adjustable oiler on but wounder what it should be like?

Are you sure that the one you believe isn't adjustable can't actually be adjusted? Some of them have a fairly plain flat top that doesn't look as if it will turn, but actually can. It only needs a fraction of a turn to adjust the amount by a lot.

Apologies if you are well versed in these things, but a lot of people aren't.

 

[davedb]

Are you sure that the one you believe isn't adjustable can't actually be adjusted? Some of them have a fairly plain flat top that doesn't look as if it will turn, but actually can. It only needs a fraction of a turn to adjust the amount by a lot.

Apologies if you are well versed in these things, but a lot of people aren't.

I never tried to turn it I just looked at it and thought it musnt turn and beings there's only one pipe to each oiler whereas a lot would have a flow and return I wondered if the pump pulsed oil and that was it

 

[clem dog]

I've filled it right to the top once or twice and never had it leak. The level isn't critical as far as I can see. Not unless it runs short of course.
Have a look at the dipstick. The oil in it should not be black. It should be clean. The oil in the picture appears to be black, possibly indicating overheated exhaust oil.

Your dealer will soon get it sorted, no doubt. Remember not to overoil. Not to over rev. Not to run the pump dead-ended to the extent that it heats up.

Curious about this point as I always had the opinion that an extra quart or so of oil in the week wouldn't do any harm. Cheaper in the long run than a set of vanes. Am I wrong or just wasting oil?
I have always ran my VP with about a drop every one or two seconds, about 1000 ERPM and always used SUTO. I have never had much problem with pumps. I always suck a litre or so of diesel through the pump after I have finished. Maybe that helps.

 

[multi power]

Its not that. It is because on an auto-hitch, only the front yolk bends, which means that due to the geometry, the shaft speeds up and slows down as it spins, hence if you fill with the tractor not straight you will hear the pump alter speed up and down.

The second critical point is that the shaft isn't level, which is where it really gets out of phase. They are not meant to bend in two planes and to avoid that, prop shafts for instance, have the universal joints at different rotational angles fixed to the shaft to counteract the out of phase forces.

When your tanker shaft is running out of line in two directions it has very little angle tolerance. It will put severe stress on the front joint and will soon break the shear bolt. Also, with time, the stress will show up as fatigue in the lemon tube near the front joint and it will break. It should last years though, so don't panic.

We used to always use tanker on drawbar. On 1394 shaft pretty much level. Even on hitch on 690 the pivot point is quite far back, but shaft not level
You are of course correct about the effect of using hitch and slope on shaft

 

[Cowabunga]

Isn't it wet enough without diesel? You will have a lot of oil dropping and misting out of the exhaust in use. There really isn't any need for that much and I hope you hold your breath while anywhere near the tanker front while filling. If it works for you, fine. Its not something I would lose sleep over one way or another.
Still not sure what benefit you think the diesel has? Unless you have some slurry coming through the trap into the pump occasionally, needing to be flushed out. If so, that is an issue you should address.

 

[multi power]

Curious about this point as I always had the opinion that an extra quart or so of oil in the week wouldn't do any harm. Cheaper in the long run than a set of vanes. Am I wrong or just wasting oil?
I have always ran my VP with about a drop every one or two seconds, about 1000 ERPM and always used SUTO. I have never had much problem with pumps. I always suck a litre or so of diesel through the pump after I have finished. Maybe that helps.

I too was taught to flush with diesel if not going to be used for some time, much better than getting stuck veins when you next need it

 

[Cowabunga]

I too was taught to flush with diesel if not going to be used for some time, much better than getting stuck veins when you next need it

In over 35 years of using vacuum tankers and the milking machine, I have never had stuck vanes. That's not to say it can't happen, but I obviously only use a half or so of the oil you use and have never ever flushed with diesel and never had stuck vanes either. I've worn vanes out on a previous tanker after 15 years of use though.

The milking machine pumps are to the same design and turn much faster for longer. I said they have done between 70,000 and 80,000 hours each. The oilers for those are just wicks that soak the oil up and transfer it to feeder pipes. They use about 25mls of oil a week per pump. That's about a half of a millilitre every hour's running time. Three sets of vanes and one bearing in all that time. Admittedly the casing is now worn and I'm about to install replacements. Is that down to poor maintenance over the last 36 years of running time?

 

[76masseyman]

Extremely helpful and knowledgable people on here thanks for the advice, the oil on the dipstick was very clean, but the stuff on the rear casing is also pretty clean, I've discovered this morning that it actually fills fine at 900 tractor revs, which I think was about 180pto lol.

One more thing, why are vacuum tanker so fussy when you turn even a very slight angle??

Best thing we did with one tanker was to do away with the shaft, and put a hydraulic motor on it. No shaft to worry about getting near, no damage by the clowns that hired it and insisted on smacking it with lift arms and no shaft maintainance. Don't know why they all don't go that way in these 'elf n safety' days, one shaft less surely better.

 

[multi power]

Best thing we did with one tanker was to do away with the shaft, and put a hydraulic motor on it. No shaft to worry about getting near, no damage by the clowns that hired it and insisted on smacking it with lift arms and no shaft maintainance. Don't know why they all don't go that way in these 'elf n safety' days, one shaft less surely better.

Easily the most dangerous shaft on the farm

 

[76masseyman]

Easily the most dangerous shaft on the farm

Now wait for the smutty replies coming !!

 

[James]

I too was taught to flush with diesel if not going to be used for some time, much better than getting stuck veins when you next need it

I was always told to turn the shaft by hand a bit when putting it on to ensure it wasn't stuck esp if its frosty

 

[Blue.]

Best thing we did with one tanker was to do away with the shaft, and put a hydraulic motor on it. No shaft to worry about getting near, no damage by the clowns that hired it and insisted on smacking it with lift arms and no shaft maintainance. Don't know why they all don't go that way in these 'elf n safety' days, one shaft less surely better.

I think with higher flow hydraulics it will be the norm in the future,I did the same with one of my tankers last year,it's miles better.

 

[Mike6120]

Had dealers out this morning, wiped it all clean and watched it working, no oil from the back end and small drops out of the exhaust... Put it down to being overly full from new..

Using it now and it's doing it again, sure the front stuff is from the exhaust but the rear seems to be coming from the seam where the casing goes onto the back of the pump
Another phone call now...

There is a relief valve on the pressurised side of the pump for when spreading. This is positioned above the rear casting, and could be dropping oil down onto the casting when spreading. It is as normal for oil to drip from this valve when the tanker is spreading as it is for oil to drip from the exhaust when filling.

 

[Hilly]

Far too much oil. The windows must fill up with oil with you. They should clear oil easily before the next drip drops.
I've been using these things for probably 35 years on tankers and have had no problem and I use super-universal or engine oil exclusively.

I've just had new vacuum pumps delivered for the milking machine. Believe me if they consumed a drop a second they would use gallons of oil every year and there would be a hell of an oily mess. They don't and have lasted since 1979 with only a couple of vane changes. The reserve is now getting to the point that they need changing due to general wear.

They have only done some 70,000 to 80,000 hours each of running.

I always run mine one drip per second and windows don't fill up, it says in the manual 1 drip per second and is same pump as the one in the op, looks to me like its been over filled and coming out the dip stick or breather.

 

[ColinV6]

Bit of an update on this, it's still ongoing, I slowed the droppers to 1 in every 3 seconds but it's still doing it. Dealer was out the other day and will be fitting a pipe to the exhaust and brass valve to divert them away from the drawbar to see if oil still appears from the pump after that. Only problem is its that bloody wet I don't know when I'll get to use it next