Weaving GD user thread

Tractor Tim

Member
Arable Farmer
I adjusted my disks the other day and could only take a thin spacer out as the disk would lock on the head of the bolt for the other disk. Is there a way round it or is that all you can do? I did think about taking just a bit off with the grinder.
 

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
If the discs are touching something foreign, they're worn out and need replacing.
You can only remove a few shims before this happens.
It's false economy to try to get more use from them.
If your bearings are good, new discs are only £20-25 each.
Not the end of the world.

As an aside I replaced the Coulter arm pivot bushes last week, first time in 4000 acres, that's made a huge difference, hadn't spotted the bit in the book that recommended 1000 acres lifespan for them.😂😂😂
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
I adjusted my disks the other day and could only take a thin spacer out as the disk would lock on the head of the bolt for the other disk. Is there a way round it or is that all you can do? I did think about taking just a bit off with the grinder.

Maybe adjust the other disc??? But yes grind the top off the stud

If the discs are touching something foreign, they're worn out and need replacing.
You can only remove a few shims before this happens.
It's false economy to try to get more use from them.
If your bearings are good, new discs are only £20-25 each.
Not the end of the world.

As an aside I replaced the Coulter arm pivot bushes last week, first time in 4000 acres, that's made a huge difference, hadn't spotted the bit in the book that recommended 1000 acres lifespan for them.😂😂😂

although not familiar with the Weaving unit as such, I have been using double disc planters for something like 30 years, in a wide range of soil types, moisture conditions ( from too dry to too wet ), from canola to cotton, in full cultivation to full zero till, basically every possible combination you can think of, I have used double disc row units . . .

the adjustment of the 2 discs in relation to each other is CRUCIAL. If you can’t get the correct adjustment by removing shims, then you need to replace discs. Most manufacturers will state a minimum disc diameter that is the replacement point

can’t speak for Weaving, but I know with JD & all of the vast array of aftermarket options for JD, it is generally cheaper ( & much quicker ) to buy the complete disc / hub / bearing as one unit & just replace the lot.
There was a time I’d replace all bearings every year, then discs every 2nd or 3rd year, but in the end it was just easier to replace everything each year
 
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Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
PLEASE don’t take to anything with a grinder 😬😮

you might upset other tolerances or angles which could have a worse effect

just replace the discs

as a long term double disc user, the single best thing you can do to improve your planters performance in all conditions, is to have new discs on it.
 

Two Tone

Member
Mixed Farmer
That is the trouble with the GD the discs don’t last that long
My 3m did 1500acres of the first set can’t complain at that
Disc life on any planter is generally determined by soil type, how abrasive it is & moisture content, just like points on a tyned machine
It has been a hard season on discs and bearing this Autumn season where it has been dry.
There is moisture down there, but it can be tough getting penetration, which can be very abrasive on the discs and stressful on the disc bearings.
I actually found it more abrasive and difficult to get the penetration on the light to medium soils this autumn! The heavier stuff was actually better.
I actually found the following wheel was leaving chevroned cleat marks on our heaviest soils, almost like it had gone to dust!

However, changing the discs (and bearings) as a complete article is very easy and quick. The longest part of it is getting the right amount of space washers in place. The inner, smaller, no scalloped discs never seem to need replacing. ATM, the cost of each scalloped discs and bearing is a little over £60/disc. But compared to the cost of plough metal and power harrow tines, that cost isn’t too bad.
 

Tractor Tim

Member
Arable Farmer
The drill has only done about 6-700 acre 6 meter wide so would have expected to get a bit more than that out of them.will have a measure and see how much they have worn. It was the first time of adjusting them and there is quite a few shims still in there
 

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
I got near 3000 acres out of my first set on my 3m.

Wouldn't have got 1000 out if the second set , mostly due to the very hard and dry this summer.
Had one disc that can't have been hardened properly which wore into an oval.

Starting this autumn with a brand new set, see how it goes.

Looking at starting after this weekends rain goes through.
 

clbarclay

Member
Location
Worcestershire
Do the bearings out last the discs for others or is it common to replace bearings before the discs?

I have however had about 8 bearings on the big discs wear out in the last few fields. I'm not sure how many acres my drill has done so far on the current discs, but soil isn't that abrasive here.
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
Do the bearings out last the discs for others or is it common to replace bearings before the discs?

I have however had about 8 bearings on the big discs wear out in the last few fields. I'm not sure how many acres my drill has done so far on the current discs, but soil isn't that abrasive here.

when I was contracting with John Deere MaxEmerge precision planters, I’d just replace all bearings every year as a precaution, to minimise down time in the field.
I don’t know what style of bearings the Weavings run, but I’d say bearings generally last the life of the disc in my experience. You might get a few fail, which is why I replaced all, just for the insurance.

in my experience, it was generally cheaper ( & a hell of a lot quicker ) just to buy complete disc / hub / bearing assembly, than it was to buy new discs & bearings & then assemble them yourself

i always felt it was false economy to re-use bearings when fitting new discs. I kept them as spares, but ALWAYS fitted new bearings
 
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Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
Do the bearings out last the discs for others or is it common to replace bearings before the discs?

I have however had about 8 bearings on the big discs wear out in the last few fields. I'm not sure how many acres my drill has done so far on the current discs, but soil isn't that abrasive here.
In effect I changed the complete set of bearings on the big discs within the 3000 acres the discs managed. Very hard dry ground, and going too fast is very hard on the bearings.
Never had a bearing go on the small disc.

@Farmer Roy
They're a bearing made by peer .
I searched and couldn't find a supplier to check if weavings were expensive or not for them.
Last new box I bought had weaving stamped on them not peer.
Neighbours just bought a gd, his are different again, essentially the same bearing, but thicker hub and rough surface instead of the machined finish on previous ones.
Similar to the one below.
 

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Two Tone

Member
Mixed Farmer
Do the bearings out last the discs for others or is it common to replace bearings before the discs?

I have however had about 8 bearings on the big discs wear out in the last few fields. I'm not sure how many acres my drill has done so far on the current discs, but soil isn't that abrasive here.
I have found that the bearings will last for about 2 discs.
The front bearings always seem to go first.
Maybe the rears would last more than 2 discs, but I doubt they would get to last the entire lifetime of 3 discs, here.
 

clbarclay

Member
Location
Worcestershire
I think my discs and bearings have done about 2800 ha, but that is on a 4.8m trailed. I recall the Badshot Two Tone are mounted?

The soil here aren't very abrasive (new plough points were once every 2 to 3 years when we ploughed everything) and my worn big discs are still bigger than a new small disc. I do wonder if running a more weight on the coulters a lot of the time has been an issue for me.
 

Two Tone

Member
Mixed Farmer
I don’t know for sure, but am reasonable convinced that the difference between the diameters of the Big disc, compared to the Small one is quite important in getting good penetration and preventing the Small disc form excessive wear.

The idea of using a warn Big disc to replace the Small disc worries me, unless you could lathe it down to the correct diameter.

On top of which, the Big Disc bearing will probably be knackered, especially on the front row, or well on the way to being knackered.
It is a time consuming job the replace the bearings alone.
I find the easiest way is to put a hexagonal Allen Key it a vice, place the disc bolt head over it and use a wrench to undo the nuts to release the disc. This has to be done for each nut and bolt on every disc, then repeated to do them all up again. It’s a PITA job!

As it is mostly the front Disc bearings that go, I mostly try to replace them as a complete Disc and bearing, but just replace the Discs on the rear coulters if I can get away with it.
 
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