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worming lambs question

Just a thought, If the fecs go up on my lambs, whats the best wormer to give them? I understand it should be white but which one should I go for? and going forward should they need another dose later in the year which should I use then? Thanks in advance
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
One that works on your farm. It’s I possible for anyone to say unless you know what your resistance levels are to each group.

Their is widespread resistance to white drenches, but some (lucky buggers) are still able to use them effectively. For others (the vast majority), whites are only much good as a first drench against nemo.

The same may, or may not, be the case for yellow or clear drenches, on any particular farm. If you have triple resistance (an increasing problem), none of those may be effective, leaving you with the option of only expensive ‘orange’ or (assuming you can get them) ‘purple’ drenches.
 
ah.. only ever used Cydectin and Oramec, normally give the odd lamb a drench if it's mucky
and when I think its more of a problem I do feces and if high drench the bunch then move them, they always have dried up and picked up, am I doing things right? never thought we had any resistance, but to be honest, never done post worming fecs as I have only just got the hang of doing it,
 

andybk

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Mendips Somerset
One that works on your farm. It’s I possible for anyone to say unless you know what your resistance levels are to each group.

Their is widespread resistance to white drenches, but some (lucky buggers) are still able to use them effectively. For others (the vast majority), whites are only much good as a first drench against nemo.

The same may, or may not, be the case for yellow or clear drenches, on any particular farm. If you have triple resistance (an increasing problem), none of those may be effective, leaving you with the option of only expensive ‘orange’ or (assuming you can get them) ‘purple’ drenches.

or you can combi drench like the boys down under , full dose of both (i know its not done here ) resistance is falling there so i have been told ,
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
or you can combi drench like the boys down under , full dose of both (i know its not done here ) resistance is falling there so i have been told ,

There aren’t any ‘combi-drenches’ licensed here, other than (the hard to get hold of) purple drench. You can legally sequentially drench with two (or more I suppose) active ingredients though, but you still need to know which product groups are effective on your farm.
 

Dkb

Member
or you can combi drench like the boys down under , full dose of both (i know its not done here ) resistance is falling there so i have been told ,

Why would resistance be dropping if their using Combi drenches? I thought that’d worsen the problem
 

gatepost

Member
Location
Cotswolds
If you have been using nothing but an ivermectin, then you need to change group for a year, I went back to ''a white drench'' for 1st drench, generally very effective against spring hatched worms ie nemo, often ivermec for 2nd worming and maybe try Zolvix (at great expense) for weaning, on the basis that it sets them up having cleared out all resistant little beggars, generally using levamisole's through the autumn.
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
On the subject is Levafas Diamond any good for nematadirus?

All wormer groups are effective against nematodiris. White drenches are generally gentler on young lambs’ tums though supposedly.

Main reason for recommending white drenches I think, is that it reduces the number of times other (still effective?) groups are used, reducing resistance pressure on them.
 
Location
cumbria
ah.. only ever used Cydectin and Oramec, normally give the odd lamb a drench if it's mucky
and when I think its more of a problem I do feces and if high drench the bunch then move them,
Don't move them post drench, any worms left after dosing will be shed onto pasture. If this is done onto clean pasture all you are left with is resistant worms thus speeding up wormed resistance. If returned to original pasture first any remaining worms will be shed with original worms thus diluting resistant worms.
Hope this makes sense
 
Don't move them post drench, any worms left after dosing will be shed onto pasture. If this is done onto clean pasture all you are left with is resistant worms thus speeding up wormed resistance. If returned to original pasture first any remaining worms will be shed with original worms thus diluting resistant worms.
Hope this makes sense
Yes it does make sense, when I say dose and move I normally dose and move a week later, not sure if that's any good, but the idea is all worms/eggs are shed at home, however, they will return home later in the year,and they live in the pasture for years...So the more I listen to my self nothing really makes sense, perhaps we're all over thinking it.
 
Location
cumbria
Yes it does make sense, when I say dose and move I normally dose and move a week later, not sure if that's any good, but the idea is all worms/eggs are shed at home, however, they will return home later in the year,and they live in the pasture for years...So the more I listen to my self nothing really makes sense, perhaps we're all over thinking it.

Either we are both wrong or yes your doing the right thing though a week might be a long,
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
To help reduce worm resistance would there be any benefit in just worming the lambs which are scouring?

Not really, scours aren’t just caused by worms and not all lambs will scour for a given worm burden.
The ‘experts’ advise leaving 10% of the fittest unwormed these days though. How many farmers do it, I don’t know. I do sometimes, but not always, making a decision based on what the lambs look like.
 

Man_in_black

Member
Livestock Farmer
am I doing things right?

drench the bunch then move them

That depends how soon after you move them... You don't want to drench the lot then move immediately to clean grazing as the ones that survive drench are then dropped onto fresh grass to start cycle. You need to dilute any resistant (surviving) worms with non resistant (back on dirty fire 24 hours or don't drench 10% of the group).
 

gatepost

Member
Location
Cotswolds
Not really, scours aren’t just caused by worms and not all lambs will scour for a given worm burden.
The ‘experts’ advise leaving 10% of the fittest unwormed these days though. How many farmers do it, I don’t know. I do sometimes, but not always, making a decision based on what the lambs look like.
I went on a bit of a course and the vet ,who had their own flock, advised leaving some fit ewes but in general terms it was a health matter and if your lambs needed dosing then they all did, as it was more important to keep your crop/income growing.
 

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On Thursday 26th September, we’re holding a webinar for farmers to go through the guidance, actions and detail for the expanded Sustainable Farming Incentive (SFI) offer. This was planned for end of May, but had to be delayed due to the general election. We apologise about that.

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