135 fuel cut off

evdama

Member
Hello
My 135 doesn't get much use and the last couple of times refused to start.
I'd left the cut off pulled out and the 'valve' or whatever had stuck.
I eventually freed it by gently tapping the injector pump with a hammer but that little trick is going to end in tears for sure -387 of them (plus VAT) according to Anglo.
Is there a way of lubricating the valve without dismantling?
If not, is it a simple straightforward job to get at it ?
 

TheTallGuy

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Hello
My 135 doesn't get much use and the last couple of times refused to start.
I'd left the cut off pulled out and the 'valve' or whatever had stuck.
I eventually freed it by gently tapping the injector pump with a hammer but that little trick is going to end in tears for sure -387 of them (plus VAT) according to Anglo.
Is there a way of lubricating the valve without dismantling?
If not, is it a simple straightforward job to get at it ?
Dismantling is fairly easy, although a little bit fiddly. There's videos on YouTube -
is a good starting point.
 

evdama

Member
Another thought
If I took off the pipe coming in from the filters and dosed the intake with carburettor cleaner would that be beneficial rather than ripping apart the pump
If so would I need to bleed it afterwards?
 

TheTallGuy

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Another thought
If I took off the pipe coming in from the filters and dosed the intake with carburettor cleaner would that be beneficial rather than ripping apart the pump
If so would I need to bleed it afterwards?
In my experience, once it starts to seize it will keep doing so as the o-rings are usually knackered. Also worth remembering that some carburettor cleaners can damage the seals & o-rings. For the sake of a kit of seals & an hour or two it's worth doing properly. Assuming that the tractor normally runs fine you can get away with just doing the seals on the top housing, although I usually do the rotary pump vanes & inlet gauze whilst the pump is on the bench.
 

evdama

Member
In my experience, once it starts to seize it will keep doing so as the o-rings are usually knackered. Also worth remembering that some carburettor cleaners can damage the seals & o-rings. For the sake of a kit of seals & an hour or two it's worth doing properly. Assuming that the tractor normally runs fine you can get away with just doing the seals on the top housing, although I usually do the rotary pump vanes & inlet gauze whilst the pump is on the bench.
That sounds scary
Today I finally managed to snap off the exhaust stack (already rotten) on a overhanging brach.
I decided to finish the job with no exhaust but after 10 mins she started surging then stopped.
Would no back pressure do this?
I had the machine stranded in a patch I need to seed this week with no knowledge of injector systems or people who can fix them.
Nothing would get it started until I gave the housing a tap and then it limped back to its nest.
I run it on derv and there's plenty in the tank.
It was the cut off?
 

TheTallGuy

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Surging before stopping sounds very much like fuel starvation to me - usually a blocked filter or gauze. If "tapping" the injection pump gets it going again my guess would be the gauze in the inlet to the injection pump is blocking, or possibly some gunge causing the plunger to stick. It's just about possible to do with the pump on the tractor, but it's easier to either take the pump right off or at least the inlet housing off the back of the pump. See around the 8 minute mark in the above video. It might seem scary to work on, but that part of the pump is very simple & as long as you go slowly it's an easy job to tackle.
 

evdama

Member
Much obliged for that
Starvation fits the situation because previously the tractor has just been trundling around for a few minutes at a time once in a blue moon,but on this occasion it had an implement in the ground
 
Last edited:

TheTallGuy

Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Much obliged for that
Starvation fits the situation because previously the tractor has just been trundling around for a few minutes at a time once in a blue moon,but on this occasion it had an implement in the ground
A quick test that you can do when it cuts out is to crank the engine over with the lower bleed nipple on the injection pump open - if you don't get a jet of fuel after a few seconds then it's starvation.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
Had this on my 65 , revs would fail away ....
The fuel tap in tank would be blocking woth gritty shite , many tanks off un wash hopefully sorted.
New all metal tap with a gauze that didn't fall off also helped alot .
At the time a pottering machine so battery would so fail wen ur bleeding....... not good 😐
 

evdama

Member
Had this on my 65 , revs would fail away ....
The fuel tap in tank would be blocking woth gritty shite , many tanks off un wash hopefully sorted.
New all metal tap with a gauze that didn't fall off also helped alot .
At the time a pottering machine so battery would so fail wen ur bleeding....... not good 😐
Another possibility ,thanks
Im thinking I should grab the bull by the horns and clean that tap,replace the filters and have a go at the pump all in one go.
It would be a big job for me as I dont have facilities at the site
 

Sharpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Another possibility ,thanks
Im thinking I should grab the bull by the horns and clean that tap,replace the filters and have a go at the pump all in one go.
It would be a big job for me as I dont have facilities at the site
Clean the tap, then change the filters, then drain the injection pump. Bleed up then try using the tractor, you may have water contaminated fuel in the pump and doing this may be enough to cure her.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
We had a CAV pump on the David Brown that would refuse to start for no reason. Took the pump into diesel shop. Rack sticking is common problem easily sorted in diesel shop without needing full return apparently. Havent had a problem with it since.
 
We had a CAV pump on the David Brown that would refuse to start for no reason. Took the pump into diesel shop. Rack sticking is common problem easily sorted in diesel shop without needing full return apparently. Havent had a problem with it since.
They are buggers especially if not used. A cup full of atf in a tank of fuel helps most pumps out especially with modern fuel as @essexpete says
 

evdama

Member
Tractor started and ran soon after I just got it off the seed bed and back to base.
It runs but I can't trust it again until I sort this.It would have been a catastrophe having to abandon it there.
My plan based on all this advice is to get new tap as I'm unsure that the old one will stand up to too much activity and a new guaze can't hurt.
Then I start work downstream when I know I don't have to drain the tank again.
Due for an oil change too so I get all the filters together
The lift pump has about 1/4 inch travel on the lever and is not spring return- is it normal or knackered?
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
My previous new tap had a nylon handle, tap bit . Crap u want a all metal one
If the cam behind the lift pump is in wrong place on rotation , if u get me u wont get much travel on lever , turn.engine over abit ??? If u get me 🤔🤔
 

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